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Car Forum / Jeep / April 20071994 YJ Axle
Hello all! It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me thinking about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two years. Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice here. The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle. After having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises... My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of the following options, but am not sure what the best would be: 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000? 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools? something I can do myself? 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but what is the downside? Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york region has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know! Thanks, Doug When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing the yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all new bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana 44. Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my opinion. If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or 4x4 clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break it? Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > Hello all! > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > Thanks, > Doug > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing the > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all new [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into without the right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to the point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt? >> When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing the >> yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all new [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > the > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt? Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it was ok to repair. Mike >Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened >and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it >was ok to repair. If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match values. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >> Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened >> and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Mine works just fine man, I don't need to know how to hack fix it, I had a machine shop do it right 'as I posted'. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >Mine works just fine man, I don't need to know how to hack fix it, I had >a machine shop do it right 'as I posted'. So in other words you do not have a clue how to do it or how it was done of if it was done correctly. You only know it works. No surprize here given you "knowledge". BTW, my method is not a hack fix unlike most of your suggestions. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >> Mine works just fine man, I don't need to know how to hack fix it, I had >> a machine shop do it right 'as I posted'. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com I don't particularly give a crap about your BS man, try reading the thread and posting to someone who might instead of posting to me. Do you 'ever' read what you are posting to? Just a hint, you are supposed to snip the part you are replying to and leave it 'in', not someone else's contribution and then post nonsense in the context. Better yet, 'don't' snip 'anything' so then your foolishness 'might' make some sense. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) hmmm. Maybe it is toast, maybe not. All I have to lose is about an hours worth of time putting everything back together. I suppose I would have had about the same experiance if I had done it myself as I would have with the shop I took it to in the first place. Point is, I want the thing back on the road! And at least now, its out enjoying the sun instead of being stuck in the garage! 20 feet closer to the road! Wish me luck! > hmmm. Maybe it is toast, maybe not. All I have to lose is about an > hours worth of time putting [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Wish me luck! Good luck man! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote: > > hmmm. Maybe it is toast, maybe not. All I have to lose is about an [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > - Show quoted text - excitment is building... tightened the pinion, put the differential cover back on, filled it with oil, new battery. roared to life after a two year break. started right up! It sounds good in the driveway. no odd noises, seems good. Tomorrow I'll fix the gas leak and take it around the block. Thanks for all the advice, and the luck! Doug >> dmschu...@gmail.com wrote: >>> hmmm. Maybe it is toast, maybe not. All I have to lose is about an [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Doug Cool, it's nice to get lucky. I was on mine also, it's doing fine 7000 miles later, but I knew the bearing had damage, I could feel it. While mine was open, I had them put all new bearings inside because they were vintage 1986 with 'some' play and it's a nice Dana 44. Mike > excitment is building... > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Thanks for all the advice, and the luck! When you come back, spread a bunch of newspaper so you can find all those other leaks from dried out seals after setting for 2 years - it's gonna be pissed at you. Seriously, give some hard thought to the gas in th tank. It's going to be pretty bad after setting, so consider either draining it (if it was full) or just adding a bottle of cleaner and a full tank of good gas before driving it far - hate to see you back in a week or so asking about how to clean injectors and replace fuel filters! Oil change wouldn't hurt, either, but that can wait until you're sure it's going to run OK.  SignatureWill Honea > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote: > > excitment is building... [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > -- > Will Honea Thanks Will. I'm going through it (and under it!) looking for things like that today. So far my list includes tires, brakes, emergency brake cables, oil change, and several other items. WIth gas prices what they are I cring at the though of draining the full tank though... Doug >WIth gas prices >what they are I cring at the though of draining the full tank >though... I would not drain the fuel as others suggest. Modern vehicle have a better sealed tank and gas does not degrade as quickly. When fuel sets open, the aromics in the fuel evaporate and change the vapor pressure of the fuel but is a sealed system this happens a lot slower. You could freshen it up a bit by topping it off with fresh fuel. I have a old J20 that has not been on the road now for close to three years that I plan to restore someday. It is sitting in the barn and it has not had fresh fuel put in it for a long time yet it starts without problem when i fire it up every several months with the old gas in it. I have a old tractor to that is used in summer and then sits in barn till the following spring and it starts on runs fine with gas close to a year old in it the following spring. I recently started up a mower that had not been used for close to 3 years and it had about 1/2 tank of old gas and it is not sealed so it was "flat" and it did not want to run so I topped of tank without draining it and it started up and ran fine. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving it, and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front wheels? I had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the Interstate, pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more or less the right torque, and it was good to go for years. Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did. Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great. You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly. On the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard to tell without opening it up. Earle > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing the > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all new [quoted text clipped - 48 lines] > the > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt? > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving it, > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front wheels? I [quoted text clipped - 73 lines] > > - Show quoted text - As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit, which was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive shaft, tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove home (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts of the differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no chipped teeth, no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell. What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued the pinion nut to where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what happens. Thoughts? > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving it, > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front wheels? I [quoted text clipped - 92 lines] > > Thoughts? I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product. Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened properly, then you may be lucky. Earle > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 127 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck! It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow afternoon. Doug > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 136 lines] > > - Show quoted text - You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure: http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/ ...... > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit, > which [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Thoughts? What do you have to lose? I would advise you to get a new crush sleeve and nut. The crush sleeve is a one time use item and cheap. Replace the sleeve and nut, torque it to spec, then see what happens. From your description, I am assuming there was no collection of metal bits in the case when you opened it up so I would guess you have a better than even chance of salvaging it. As I said, what have you got to lose? SignatureWill Honea Ditto. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > What do you have to lose? I would advise you to get a new crush sleeve and > nut. The crush sleeve is a one time use item and cheap. Replace the > sleeve and nut, torque it to spec, then see what happens. From your > description, I am assuming there was no collection of metal bits in the > case when you opened it up so I would guess you have a better than even > chance of salvaging it. As I said, what have you got to lose? SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com D44, 8.25" from a Cherokee, or 9" from a Ford Explorer are commended upgrades. Dynatrac and other companies will build a new, beefed up upgrade for $$$$. Now is a good time to think about changing the axle ratio, but that would also involve changing the ring and pinion on the front. Going to a higher number axle ratio will let the engine work in its power band and could improve fuel economy. Earle > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing the > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all new [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > > Thanks, > > Doug |
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