Hi all,
I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
Thanks!!
Breton
SnoMan - 26 Apr 2007 22:18 GMT
>Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>Thanks!!
>Breton
This is just a though but you might be money ahead to swap out the
whole front axle with a good one from a bone yard. It would only take
maybe a few hours of labor at most if mech knew what they were doing
and it would likely cost you less overall. You could tea into that one
and find damage in hub assemble and cost more money to fix and those
ball joints are a pain to change and could cost more in a rust belt
area if they are fused in there with rust.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
jeff - 26 Apr 2007 22:47 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
Sounds high. Even with new spindles both sides you should be under $300
for parts. Try "Cheap Jeeps" in Framingham. To him a favor by bying a
couple cans of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster (not wd-40) a couple weeks
before the job and soak everything in the hub area down from the back
side of the wheels several times.

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jeff
DougW - 26 Apr 2007 22:48 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
Hmm.. on the 93ZJ it's three bolts and the whole axle slides out.
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
A new OEM Right shaft is $473
If you have ABS the shaft is only $409
If you have disconnects the shaft is $348

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DougW
Matt Macchiarolo - 27 Apr 2007 01:59 GMT
The hubs tend to rust themselves into the steering knuckles.
>> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> If you have ABS the shaft is only $409
> If you have disconnects the shaft is $348
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 26 Apr 2007 23:23 GMT
Have a weekend and a mechanically incline friend?
http://www.billhughes.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=257794
Use lots of penetrating fluid, and maybe a couple extra hub bolts to beat
on, to drive the hub spindle out of the knuckle
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Thanks!!
> Breton

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L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 27 Apr 2007 02:13 GMT
Real Jeeps protect their Universal-Joints via enclosed knuckles:
http://www.billhughes.com/dana25knuckle.jpg And of course being a Dana 25 it
has a bigger ring and pinion than your rear axle Dana 35c.
> Have a weekend and a mechanically incline friend?
> http://www.billhughes.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

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breton - 27 Apr 2007 04:09 GMT
Hi all,
Thanks for all of your opinions. I'm trying to get things together.
I'll give the suggested shops a call and see what happens. I really
would prefer not to get rid of this ride... I have to make the sound
choice though...we'll see.
Best,
Breton
On Apr 26, 9:13 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III" <billhug...@cox.net>
wrote:
> Real Jeeps protect their Universal-Joints via enclosed knuckles:http://www.billhughes.com/dana25knuckle.jpgAnd of course being a Dana 25 it
> has a bigger ring and pinion than your rear axle Dana 35c.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
RoyJ - 27 Apr 2007 14:50 GMT
If you decide to do the U joints yourself, ask for advice on how to pull
the wheel bearing hub from folks who live in the rust belt. Bill lives
in LA land where rust is not the big issue.
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>>--
>>Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 27 Apr 2007 23:58 GMT
Rust?
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> If you decide to do the U joints yourself, ask for advice on how to pull
> the wheel bearing hub from folks who live in the rust belt. Bill lives
> in LA land where rust is not the big issue.

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RoyJ - 26 Apr 2007 23:34 GMT
Sounds pretty spendy. The XJ should have the standard U joint, not the
cardigan. Replacement U joint runs $10 to $15 plus labor. If the bearing
hub comes out easily, about an hour labor in a good shop. If it comes
out hard (plan on it given the salted roads!!) , a GOOD shop can handle
it without too much extra time. If they don't do these very often, they
might try to get you for 4 hours. That is per side so $200 to $250 for
both sides would not be out of line.
I'm showing $185 for a ball joint set (per side) from
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ . Expect half that at NAPA. No idea
on the labor cost.
I'd expect some play in the ball joints, no idea if yours is minor
expected wear, serious wear, or don't drive it until it's fixed wear.
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Thanks!!
> Breton
SnoMan - 27 Apr 2007 01:43 GMT
> a GOOD shop can handle
>it without too much extra time. If they don't do these very often, they
>might try to get you for 4 hours. That is per side so $200 to $250 for
>both sides would not be out of line.
I doubt that in Boston as I am sure labor cost more for everythime up
there and going rate is likely at least $100 a hour plus repair a
front end that has issues or failures is not the same as normal tear
down plus someone mentioned a 10 or 15 dollars joint up there but not
me, no cheap joints there.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Mike Romain - 27 Apr 2007 15:28 GMT
I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
a 10 pounder on it)
I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.
I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
start, to use as a beat on bolt.
Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
steering cut.
I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
move.
I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
without messing with the hub or bearings.
I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.
The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
don't seem to be aware of this.
Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.
Good luck!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Thanks!!
> Breton
RoyJ - 27 Apr 2007 16:59 GMT
What Mike said: I have a 6# sledge hammer with the handle cut down to
12". Don't even bother trying this without something of this heft. I put
the rig up on 6 ton jackstands ($18 a pair on sale) because they go to a
full 24", lets you swing at the lower bolt from underneath.
> I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
> Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
[quoted text clipped - 65 lines]
>> Thanks!!
>> Breton
Will Honea - 27 Apr 2007 20:46 GMT
> Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
> at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
> about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
> moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.
Mike, try this: get a helper on the impact wrench then as he spins the
nut/bolt, rap it nicely with that BFH. The impact of the hammer will
freeze it just long enough to start the nut spinning.
I'm beginning to believe that most of the accidents prevented by salting
roads actually comes from the fact that half the cars are so rusted out
from the salt that they aren't on the road to get involved in accidents.

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Will Honea