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Car Forum / Jeep / June 2007((OT)) Electronics (electrical) Problem
I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting. I have a fiber optic lighting system in my swimming pool. It takes a 24v/250A light bulb. The bubl does not light, but the filiment is okay. The power supply (transformer) does not put out any voltage, so I bought a new one. The new transformer is stated to provide 40VA, but the light does not come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different. What's the difference? > I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not > getting. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different. > What's the difference? VA is VoltAmps or Watts in DC current systems, a measure of power output and most commonly used with backup power supplies although it works on transformers. 250A is way too high for any bulb. 24V 250A is enough to run a MIG welder. :) It's time to start tracking. Start with the AC power to the transformer and make sure it's working and the breaker hasn't popped or the switch failed. Then take an ohmmeter and measure the bulb side of that circuit to make sure it's good and the bulb holder or wires haven't corroded. (there could be a switch somewhere in that circuit also) Hard to tell without looking at it myself.  SignatureDougW > take an ohmmeter and measure the bulb side of that circuit >to make sure it's good and the bulb holder or wires haven't corroded. >(there could be a switch somewhere in that circuit also) This is good advise. Verify the circuit from transformer out. I also agree that 250 amps is way too much. This would equal a little over 6000watts for bulb and as a comparision, aircraft landing lights on big planes are 600 to 1000 watts and you see how bright they are. Also to run a 250 amp bulb you would have to feed it with at least 2 ga wire too and transformer would be so heavy that you would have trouble lifting it to install it and it would take a 30 amp 230 volt circuit to power it too. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >> take an ohmmeter and measure the bulb side of that circuit >>to make sure it's good and the bulb holder or wires haven't corroded. >>(there could be a switch somewhere in that circuit also) > > This is good advise. Verify the circuit from transformer out. I also > agree that 250 amps OOPS! Did I say 250 amps? It's 250 watts. >> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not >> getting. [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Hard to tell without looking at it myself. NEW STUFF ... I'm dumb. The lamp has continuity at something like 1.5mohms, which is pretty close to being open. I think I measure in at 1mohm. I have several meters, the first one lied to me for whatever reason. My Fluke 77 says I have 21vAC on the secondary of the original transformer and the bulb is open until I get to the megohm range. (I think it might be the 20 megohm range to boot.) > The lamp has continuity at something like 1.5mohms, which is pretty > close to being open. I think I measure in at 1mohm. That depends on the bulb and what temperature it's at. Open is going to be infinite, but your basic 75W 120V blub is about 60 Ohms cold. Halogen bulbs are a different aminal. Just remember for any bulb it's best to keep your fingers off the glass and use a clean cloth to handle them. Oil on the higher output bulbs will cause them to fail early. > I have several meters, the first one lied to me for whatever reason. > My Fluke 77 says I have 21vAC on the secondary of the original > transformer and the bulb is open until I get to the megohm range. (I > think it might be the 20 megohm range to boot.) I'd be thinking bulb or the wires leading to it. SignatureDougW >> The lamp has continuity at something like 1.5mohms, which is pretty >> close to being open. I think I measure in at 1mohm. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > I'd be thinking bulb or the wires leading to it. Thanks. I'm stuck on the bulb too. My meter told me the bulb was good, but now I am not sure about the meter. Maybe the meter is okay, but the moron working the buttons leaves a bit to be desired. In any case, the bulb is dead, and the original power supply is putting out voltage. >My meter told me the bulb was good, but now I am not sure about the meter. >Maybe the meter is okay, but the moron working the buttons leaves a bit to >be desired. In any case, the bulb is dead, and the original power supply is >putting out voltage. Two thing, a 40VA replacement transformer is not going to power a 250 watt bulb. Next, a 250 watt 24 volt bulb is going to read about a dead short on ohm test (much less than 1 ohm) While it will look like about a 1.5 ohm load when hot, resistance decreases when element is cold so do not be surprized if it look like or near a dead short on a 1x scale. BTW, a 24volt 250 watt bulb is a pretty serious bulb and can get pretty warm. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >>My meter told me the bulb was good, but now I am not sure about the meter. >>Maybe the meter is okay, but the moron working the buttons leaves a bit to [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > scale. BTW, a 24volt 250 watt bulb is a pretty serious bulb and can > get pretty warm. Yeah, I know it's a serious bulb. It gets seriously hot. I have fiber optic lighting in my swimming pool. The light itself lives in a box in a nearby planter, and there is a bundle of fiber cables that go from the pool to this box in the planter. As the fan cools the lamp, there is a color wheel that turns between the end of the fiber cable and the lamp, and the pool changes color as the wheel goes around. I didn't know the math to convert VA to regular A until somebody here told me, and in the example they gave, the result is the same as the "regular A" rating on the spec sheet. The catalog only gave the VA spec, and because I did not know the math, the information given seemed adequate. Adding insult to stupidity, my meter told me that the lamp was very nearly a dead short -- as you said it should be -- and that the transformer I had wasn't putting out anything. Now that I bought a new transformer, I find that the lamp is toast and the old transformer is actually still good. I haven't figured out if the meter lied, or I asked the wrong questions -- it is loaded up with a sh.t load of buttons and input taps, and it seems now that I may not have pressed the right buttons and filled the right taps. >Adding insult to stupidity, my meter told me that the lamp was very nearly a >dead short -- as you said it should be -- and that the transformer I had [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >is loaded up with a sh.t load of buttons and input taps, and it seems now >that I may not have pressed the right buttons and filled the right taps. Listen, first of all, you are not stupid just because you do not know something, that is why you ask questions. Stupid is not even asking the question. Some multimeters can be a bit confusing but generallt you use one set of lead connections for volt and ohms and another for AMP if your meter supports that (those terminals have a shunt accross them internally for current measurements) You always what to use 1K range on ohm meter when checking light bulbs. Also transformers generally rarely fail and when they do there is usually little doubt because they will appear or smell burnt. Only a few things can kill a transformer. The first is overloading it and it overheats and insulation in winding break down and it shorts out internally. The second is that a winding open up internall which is really rare in a power transformer and the third it insulation break down from time and heat which cause it to short internally. Properly sized for load a power transfomer can live many many years. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >>Adding insult to stupidity, my meter told me that the lamp was very nearly >>a [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > something, that is why you ask questions. Stupid is not even asking > the question. The part you missed is where I said, in another part of the thread, that I built the meter from a kit. If anybody knows how to use this particular meter, it should be me. Some multimeters can be a bit confusing but generallt > you use one set of lead connections for volt and ohms and another for > AMP if your meter supports that (those terminals have a shunt accross [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > power transformer and the third it insulation break down from time and > heat which cause it to short internally. Properly sized for load a > power transfomer can live many many years. This one has lived for 11 years outside in the garden. It's mounted inside a box, but it is still a relativley hostile environment for this sort of stuff. There are bugs living in the box that the transformer lives in. The light uses 250W, which makes lots of heat -- a Suzy Home Maker Kitchen is safer to use -- so it needs large holes to draw air through. > This one has lived for 11 years outside in the garden. It's mounted > inside a box, but it is still a relativley hostile environment for > this sort of stuff. There are bugs living in the box that the > transformer lives in. The light uses 250W, which makes lots of heat I built an o-scope (Heathkit). :) It still works even though it's now been replaced by a Tektronix unit with a few more features. http://revbeergoggles.com/temp/o-scope.jpg Still remember adjusting the deflection voltage +50, -50 and noticing one of the FETs was a bent over a bit.. so like a dumbass I grabbed it to straighten it out and it straighten me out. Not like I was just measuring the damn thing. noooooooooooooooooooooo SignatureDougW Doug, in reference to your link, there was a "revbeergoggles" over on the Venture Motorcycle group I used to be a member of. Same guy? Spdloader > http://revbeergoggles.com/temp/o-scope.jpg > Doug, in reference to your link, there was a "revbeergoggles" over on > the Venture Motorcycle group I used to be a member of. Same guy? nope. Got that moniker over in alt.slack SignatureDougW >> Doug, in reference to your link, there was a "revbeergoggles" over on >> the Venture Motorcycle group I used to be a member of. Same guy? > > nope. > > Got that moniker over in alt.slack It's a good one. He was a great guy from what I remember. Later, Spdloader >This one has lived for 11 years outside in the garden. It's mounted inside a >box, but it is still a relativley hostile environment for this sort of >stuff. There are bugs living in the box that the transformer lives in. The >light uses 250W, which makes lots of heat -- a Suzy Home Maker Kitchen is >safer to use -- so it needs large holes to draw air through. I understand that but what limits the transformers operational temp limit is the nature of its winding insulation. Most transformer suitable for outside usage have moisture resist insulation and can take a pretty serious amount of heat for a lot of years. ALso, sine this it a low voltage output transformer it is even less prone to fail from age if properly sized because of less demand on insulation and the wall voltage insulation is well prtectec because it is the first winding placed on the core. I actually wound a few transformers many years ago for some hobby builds to get the desired voltage from them. They operate on a very simple theory and are extremely relaible. Like I said when one goes south you will know it by its appearance or odor generally. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com Jeff, 250A (A=Amps) is ALOT of current, so much so that it can't be correct. You probably have no more than a 250A service for your entire house. I think you mean W (Watts), which is usually how bubs are rated; by the Voltage and Watts. The amps required, based on Ohms Law, is the Watts divided by the voltage. The bulb you have is 250W divided by 24 Volts = 10.42 Amps. Sounds like the power supply you bought only puts out about 1.666A at 24V (24V X 1.66A = 40VA). So, the power supply is too small. You need one rated at 10A plus a few more Amps for a margin of safety, so at 24V output the VA is 24V X 10A = 240VA minimum. Howard >I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different. What's the > difference? That's what I needed to know. the supply I bought is way too small. And, the bulb is 250w not 250a. Sorry for that. > Jeff, > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >> come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different. What's >> the difference? The power rating given for small transformers is usually the max allowed load for short periods and not for continuous operation at full load. If you operate the lamp for long periods of time, you need (rough estimation) a transformer capable of continuous power load of 250W / 0.8 ~= 310VA. Which depening of the quality of the transformer, means you might need a 500VA transformer if you want it to last. Bill Spiliotopoulos. >I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different. What's the > difference? > I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > come on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different. What's > the difference? Just another thought for you. I decided to fix the pool lights at my brother in laws cottage 'way' up north and talked to a pool tech before going. He stated the power transformers were the weak point. This fiber unit used a 12 V 75W 'pot light' and a colored spinning wheel but supposedly could take a 100W. Sure enough, I didn't even need to meter the power supply once I saw the melted solder on the output transistors. A new unit was pricey and I 'really' don't like replacing 'weak points' with 'new' weak points. So I went into the local town to the hardware store, picked up a 120V 50W bulb (the biggest they had, no 75's), went across the street to a Radio Shack and found a couple pigtails that fit the bulb's base because no one had the proper pigtail in town and converted the sucker to a 'line voltage' box. Basically I tossed out the 12 volt crap and just went 120V. It works great and some day when I go back up if I get ambitious I will up the bulb to a 75W or even the 100W the 'fixture' says it can handle. There is a colored wheel to avoid melting. The owners are fine with the lower 50W though so. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) After all this back-and-forth about the problem, all I can add is that Jeff ought to not throw good money after bad, or incur further risk to himself by calling in a really good electrician (not the guy who can replace a wall switch) and leave it to him. We all think we know a little about electricity, and it's just enough to get a surprise in the form of a lethal or nearly lethal shock. I'd just as soon not read the news and find that Jeff Strickland was found face down with two wires in his hands. ....."let's see now, was that 250 Amps or 250 Watts???" Stick to plumbing repairs. Lots of professional electricians have succumbed to electrical shock, but I've yet to hear of a plumber drowning. > After all this back-and-forth about the problem, all I can add is that > Jeff [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > electricity, and it's just enough to get a surprise in the form of a > lethal or nearly lethal shock. A nearly lethal shock will give you years and years of health problems, as any survivor of being struck by lightning can tell you. I have a garage that was wired without a single junction box, except where required for switches and receptacles. The cables are just spliced together in the middle of the air. A piece of extension cord material was used to feed one room. It was of course wire nutted into a piece of romex and then sealed into a wall. I lost no time in telling the seller of the property and the guy who wired the garage that both were morons. Either get a real electrician or a Time/Life diy book. > I'd just as soon not read the news and find that Jeff Strickland was found > face down with two wires in his hands. ....."let's see now, was that 250 > Amps or 250 Watts???" > Stick to plumbing repairs. Lots of professional electricians have > succumbed to electrical shock, but I've yet to hear of a plumber drowning. There is an electric pipe thawer that could give you quite a jolt. I see a lot of burned fingers from sweating copper tubing together. Saludos cordiales, Earle > Either get a real electrician or a Time/Life diy book. The diy book might be safer, a good friend recently retired from his job as a building inspector, he was a journeyman electrician by trade before becoming an inspector so he knew the electrical code very well. He said it was almost unbelievable the number of jobs done by experienced, licensed, electrical contractors and/or electricians that had to be ripped out and done over because of numerous code violations and unsafe wiring done intentionally to save a buck. You'd think it would be cheaper to wire a building correctly than to tear it all out and do it over but the contractors lived with the constant hope they wouldn't get caught... :-( SignatureXS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html > After all this back-and-forth about the problem, all I can add is that > Jeff ought to not throw good money after bad, or incur further risk to [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Stick to plumbing repairs. Lots of professional electricians have > succumbed to electrical shock, but I've yet to hear of a plumber drowning. I'm a handyman by trade, and applying Ohm's Law has never ever come up for me in the past. Had I known the difference between VA and amperage, we would not be having this discussion. I've added complete new circuits from the fuse panel, replacing a light bulb ought to be a job I can handle. Having said that, I did find it exceedingly difficult to get the correct information from my meter, and I's still not sure if it was the meter that was lying, or the idiot-in-charge pushing the wrong buttons. And you should note that W and A are adjacent to one another on the keyboard. While there is significant difference in 250A and 250W, the keystrokes are nearly identical. > After all this back-and-forth about the problem, all I can add is that Jeff > ought to not throw good money after bad, or incur further risk to himself by [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Stick to plumbing repairs. Lots of professional electricians have > succumbed to electrical shock, but I've yet to hear of a plumber drowning. Well as a plumber that works under pools, I have gotten pretty wet.... Then there are the houses that use the cold water pipe as the main ground for the electrical panel for the house. Man oh man the blue fire that happens if you happen to cut that SOB with a 240V dryer or stove or even just the 120V stuff turned on anywhere in the house is Wicked! Just turns the pipe cutter into instant slag. I make 'real' sure where the electrical panel is when I cut a cold line and half the time put a set of booster cables across where I want to cut if in any doubt. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting. >> [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > to a 75W or even the 100W the 'fixture' says it can handle. There is a > colored wheel to avoid melting. I did the same thing, I bought a pack of 120v/50w bulbs and did a test run with them. they are not bright enough. >>> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting. >>> [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > I did the same thing, I bought a pack of 120v/50w bulbs and did a test > run with them. they are not bright enough. Is that as big as they make for that size I wonder? I really like the brighter lights because they do a wicked show in a snowstorm when sitting in the hot tub. I think if I could get one without the diffuser lens on it all the light would be in a spot on the fiber end. In my case I am only talking a 25-50W difference, not a couple hundred like yours... I was almost thinking on cutting the diffuser off one just to see. I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line voltage light was easy. Mike >>>> I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not >>>> getting. [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line > voltage light was easy. Swapping this light is easy too. Seriously. Where I got sideways is that the filiment LOOKS okay, so I checked it with my meter and it checked good too. As I explained in another post, I either operated my meter wrong, or it's broken. (I'm inclined to go with "wrong" for now. Don't ask ... ) [snip] > Where I got sideways is that the filiment LOOKS okay, so I checked it with my > meter and it checked good too. As I explained in another post, I either > operated my meter wrong, or it's broken. (I'm inclined to go with "wrong" for > now. Don't ask ... ) This has happened to me and I work with lights for a living. Here's what could have happened: The filament broke near the connection point. When you put your meter on it the fliament flopped back into place and the meter showed continuity. When you put it back into the socket it didn't work -- either because the motion opened up the gap again or because the heat generated when you aplied voltage expanded the metal and opened up the gap. It tests OK, your meter works, but the bulb is bad. I've even seen sparks jumping across the gap wen you apply power to globes like that. A related error can happen with cartridge fuses -- they can blow and still carry the milliamp or so of current that the meter puts out, so they test OK. But there's not enough conducting material there to carry real current and under load you have an open circuit. -- "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey, that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated." Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast. >I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a >good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line >voltage light was easy. Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you post in other areas so this is no surprise. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >> I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a >> good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors sitting right below the light box. The light box is a 120V unit with the spin motor running on line voltage and a stepdown transformer to give the 'light' only 12 or 24 volts. Now once again go screw yourself! Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain dead a.shole'???? Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why >Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain >dead a.shole'???? Because if he was halfway intelligent instead of brain dead, he wouldn't be a stalker? You're welcome, my son. :-) -- Old Crow "Yol Bolsun!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in >a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors >sitting right below the light box. Such a child, I do not carr where bulb is. There is a reason for code and why there as codes for using lower voltages unless you get wannabe smart guys like you that decides that code does not mean squat and changes it. It is bad enough you do this to your own stuff but to do it to others and tell others to do it to show a real desrepect for safety codes. >The light box is a 120V unit with the spin motor running on line voltage >and a stepdown transformer to give the 'light' only 12 or 24 volts. There is a difference between a motor that delevopes no voltage output and transformered curcuit. Maybe everyone else that designs this stuff and their safty codes is full of it and you should take over for them huh? >Now once again go screw yourself! If is so much fun to watch you screw yourself MIke. You are your own worst enemy sometimes. >Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why >Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain >dead a.shole'???? Again it is funny to watch your comments sometimes as you act like a child >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Typical ego signature and serves no purpose other than to try to feed ego. BTW you left of your 5 speed with 4 usable gears because of your tall ratio "power" gears you use with big tires. (I guess this is why you got in a bit of a twist over low range usage a while back becaause you have never had a properly geared 4x4 that did not require frequent use of it and just could not understand why anyone would not need to use it often like you have too.) ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >> Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in >> a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > it to others and tell others to do it to show a real desrepect for > safety codes. LIAR! The fiber optic light boxes have a full 120 volts going into them, there is 'no' building code that prohibits that at all. Yes, I 'do' know this for a fact, it is my job to know. Once again you have proven yourself a liar and a Stalking idiot just full of bullshit. And seeing as you 'do' want to play, how would you like me to do a collection of all your total bullshit and life threatening advise and add 'that' to every one of your posts for ya. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) I'll say again, Bloman, ALL of my pool lighting is 120V, professionally installed, passed inspection and conforms with code. No electrical code forbids full line voltage in wet areas or requires low-voltage circuits in wet areas instead of line voltage. If it did, my pool pumps would operate on 12 volts and require twenty times as much current as they do now, which would be very dangerous. Code provides for the wet areas by requiring GFCI's and conduit rated for wet areas. Time to re-join the real world and leave this fantasy world you live in where you are always right and anyone that disagrees with you is wrong. Yes, you are now in my killfile, but you are so spectacularly wrong on your assumption (that you present as fact) that code requires low-voltage wiring for pools, I had to respond. >>> Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in >>> a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why >Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain >dead a.shole'???? Remember that old saw of "You can choose your friends, but you can't choose your relatives?" Add Cyber-Stalkers to the second column. And as a working Electrician, you are doing nothing wrong. Fiber- optic illuminators are often chosen directly for the increased safety benefits. Now if you had one of the rigs with a 12V or 24V low-voltage lamp *underwater* in the pool, and tried to convert it to line voltage without changing to the proper fixture and wet-niche (and bonding, and GFCI protection, and clearance from the pool edge to the 'deck box' junction box, and height of deck box above waterline...) there would be problems. --<< Bruce >>-- >>I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a >>good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you > post in other areas so this is no surprise. Before you jump on him, there is 115v all around inside the box. The only 24v load is the light that I'm working on, everything else is 115v, so the conversion actually makes sense. I tried it, but the light was not strong enough to do the job. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com >>> I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a >>> good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > I tried it, but the light was not strong enough to do the job. Jeff, this j.rkoff only found this group by internet stalking me when I called him on his dangerous/life threatening bullshit on other groups. He has serious mental issues as is obvious from some of his posts that Google has nicely stored. If he continues, well... I 'am' bored these days. <chuckle> Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a >>good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Hmm. Both pump motors for my pool run on 220V. The underwater pool light is a 120V, 300W. The light pole on the pool patio is 120V. Everything was professionally installed and passed inspection. Until you learn to stifle your preoccupation with Mike, you won't ever be taken seriously. It's sad reading some of the good advice you give peppered with crazy rants aimed at only one person. I blame myself somewhat, I didn't get around to plonking you yet. I'll fix that right now. It turns out that I don't know how to use my own volt meter (the one I built 20+ years ago from a kit). Crap! I hate when that happens. The bulb is toast and the transformer is fine. I order new lamps and reinstalled the transformer. >I thought I knew this stuff, but there is a nuance that I'm not getting. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > on. My guess is that a VA and a "regular" A are different. What's the > difference? |
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