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Car Forum / Jeep / July 2007

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Popping noise when turning

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97tjMike - 26 Jul 2007 20:43 GMT
Hello everyone:

I replaced my right front hub assembly yesterday, and everything was
ok right after, but now I am noticing a popping noise (multiple times,
like pop pop pop pop) when turning or swerving at low speeds. Could
this be a bad U-Joint? I also have another problem where the steering
wheel doesn't go back to center after turning. A mechanic suggested I
check the U-Joints. The one on the right is fine, but idk about the
one on the left. Any suggestions?

Mike
Mike Romain - 26 Jul 2007 20:51 GMT
> Hello everyone:
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Mike

The mechanic was right....

You can jack it up and cut the steering tot he side, then hand spin the
tire to check for binding or slop or rust stains at the caps.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jon - 26 Jul 2007 21:01 GMT
> Hello everyone:
>
> I replaced my right front hub assembly yesterday, and everything was
> ok right after, but now I am noticing a popping noise (multiple times,
> like pop pop pop pop) when turning or swerving at low speeds. Could
> this be a bad U-Joint?

Yes, it could be a bad axle joint, but if we're not talking about full-
lock turns or something close to it, I'd have to make sure you torqued
the axle nut properly.

> I also have another problem where the steering
> wheel doesn't go back to center after turning. A mechanic suggested I
> check the U-Joints. The one on the right is fine, but idk about the
> one on the left. Any suggestions?

Not likely on the TJ unless you've put on aftermarket hub locks, as
binding axle joint (as your mechanic was thinking) only does that when
it's not spinning.  A binding joint will shake your wheel -- In your
case, 19/20 times it's traced to binding in ball joints/steering
linkage or bad alignment.  Alternatively, if someone's been in your
steering box lately, it might have been "adjusted" too tight.

Jon
Jeff Strickland - 26 Jul 2007 23:11 GMT
IF the steering wheel returned to center before you took the hub off, then
you have a serious problem that you need to address before you drive this
vehicle again. In tandem, the new noise and the new behavior raise a huge
red flag that tells me that the vehicle is unsafe to drive.

It is possible that the UJoints are bad (either one or both of them), but
they would not cause steering problems where the wheel does not come back to
center. If the hub was not installed correctly, then there could be popping
noises and the steering may not respond properly.

I could be wrong, but my guess is that the front tire is about to fall off.

> Hello everyone:
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Mike
97tjMike - 27 Jul 2007 04:00 GMT
To clear a couple of things up. First of all, I bent back my dust
guard on the brakes and the problem lessened. Now it hardly happens. I
guess it was just everything "settling in." With that problem out of
the way (I hope), I still need to address the center problem. Yes, it
happened before I changed the hub, and the steering box is brand new
(but it happened before that as well). I'm gonna hopefully rip the
drivers side apart Saturday so I can check the U-Joint on that side.
Some of you have suggested that its NOT a U-Joint. What else could it
be?
Mike

> IF the steering wheel returned to center before you took the hub off, then
> you have a serious problem that you need to address before you drive this
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> > Mike
Jeff Strickland - 27 Jul 2007 04:31 GMT
Why didn't you tell us that in the first place?

The steering box was installed wrong. The pitman arm has to be removed and
put back on in the right place. I suggest turning front tires so they are
straight, removing the pitman arm from the steering box, turning the
steering wheel straight, then putting the arm back on.

It's too bad that the hubs are between you and the u-joints, you have to
repeat all of the work you already did to get to the u-joints.

> To clear a couple of things up. First of all, I bent back my dust
> guard on the brakes and the problem lessened. Now it hardly happens. I
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> be?
> Mike
noneofyourbusiness - 27 Jul 2007 08:41 GMT
>To clear a couple of things up. First of all, I bent back my dust
>guard on the brakes and the problem lessened. Now it hardly happens. I
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>be?
>Mike

Maybe you need an alignment?
(Isn't that partly controlled by the CASTER (castOr?) setting?)

...

>> IF the steering wheel returned to center before you took the hub off, then
>> you have a serious problem that you need to address before you drive this
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>>
>> > Mike
Mike Romain - 27 Jul 2007 14:19 GMT
> To clear a couple of things up. First of all, I bent back my dust
> guard on the brakes and the problem lessened. Now it hardly happens.

Woah now!  That is 'not' a good thing!!!!

That means the hub has lateral movement in it which means either the
bearing is shot or the hub is loose or the axle nut is loose.

Any of these can cause the front wheel to fall off.

 I
> guess it was just everything "settling in."

That does not happen with your repair.  It is either right or wrong.

With that problem out of
> the way (I hope), I still need to address the center problem. Yes, it
> happened before I changed the hub, and the steering box is brand new
> (but it happened before that as well). I'm gonna hopefully rip the
> drivers side apart Saturday so I can check the U-Joint on that side.
> Some of you have suggested that its NOT a U-Joint. What else could it
> be?

A bad ball joint can or will cause the steering to bind.  That happened
to me recently and I had to 'pull' the steering back straight.

Again this can cause your wheel to fall off when the ball joint fails.

I also suspected my steering damper shock, but it turned out mine was a
hollow tube with a rod flopping in it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jeff Strickland - 27 Jul 2007 18:50 GMT
>> To clear a couple of things up. First of all, I bent back my dust
>> guard on the brakes and the problem lessened. Now it hardly happens.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Any of these can cause the front wheel to fall off.

I'm with Mike on this. You seriously need to take the right side hub apart
again and make sure it is PROPERLY installed. Everything you've said is a
Red Flag screaming DANGER, ABORT. This can lead to serious death or injury
to not only you but innocent bystanders.

>  I
>> guess it was just everything "settling in."
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
twaldron - 27 Jul 2007 19:04 GMT
 > I'm with Mike on this. You seriously need to take the right side hub
> apart again and make sure it is PROPERLY installed. Everything you've
> said is a Red Flag screaming DANGER, ABORT. This can lead to serious
> death or injury to not only you but innocent bystanders.

Why are bystanders always innocent? Odds are some of them aren't.

tw
Craig C. - 27 Jul 2007 19:18 GMT
>> death or injury to not only you but innocent bystanders.
>
> Why are bystanders always innocent? Odds are some of them aren't.

Indeed.  If you live your life by the "you get what you deserve"
guideline, there aren't any innocent bystanders.  Just people waiting
for their next helping of ass-kicking.

:-)
Craig C.
Jeff Strickland - 28 Jul 2007 00:25 GMT
>  > I'm with Mike on this. You seriously need to take the right side hub
>> apart again and make sure it is PROPERLY installed. Everything you've
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> tw

Good point.

Since we can't tell the guilty bystanders from the innocent ones, my humble
opinion is that the assumption of innocence just seem the right thing to do.
XS11E - 28 Jul 2007 01:18 GMT
> Since we can't tell the guilty bystanders from the innocent ones,
> my humble opinion is that the assumption of innocence just seem
> the right thing to do.

I've been a bystander and I've been innocent but maybe not both at the
same time.... ;-)

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97tjMike - 28 Jul 2007 04:02 GMT
ok ok you guys were right...I was wrong. The noise still occurs. I
removed and repeated every step from the other day. I found no loose
bolts or anything. When I put everything back together the noise still
occured. I had my dad drive it while I listened, and it is definately
coming from that side. Since I know the U-Joint on that side is good,
I'm beginning to suspect that I have a defective part (it wasn't Mopar
but rather "Valucraft"). I'm gonna rip everything apart tomorrow (for
the 3rd time) and exchange the part for a new one to see if that makes
a difference.

Mike
Mike Romain - 28 Jul 2007 13:33 GMT
> ok ok you guys were right...I was wrong. The noise still occurs. I
> removed and repeated every step from the other day. I found no loose
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Mike

Just FYI, a u-joint can still 'look' OK and be bad.  The needle bearings
inside can rust out on them.  Look very closely at the end caps for rust
stains.

You also can jack up the wheel, turn the steering to the side and hand
spin the wheel looking for the noise or a bind in the u-joint.

Though changing the noise by moving the dust shield implies bearing issues.

Did you get that axle nut on really tight?  That is all that holds the
hub together.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jeff Strickland - 28 Jul 2007 15:02 GMT
HOW DO YOU KNOW THE U-JOINT IS GOOD?

You need to take the axleshaft out, and you may as well replace the joint
since the axle is out. The joints only cost about $10, maybe $15, so you may
as well do them while the front end is taken apart.

Another thing to be looking for is a worn control arm and/or track bar
bushing(s). This would not make a "popping" sound though, so we might be
missing an obvious problem because your word choice is throwing us off.

Given your description, the usual suspect is the u-joint.

PS
I doubt that Mopar is a better part than ValueCraft.

> ok ok you guys were right...I was wrong. The noise still occurs. I
> removed and repeated every step from the other day. I found no loose
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Mike
97tjMike - 29 Jul 2007 00:47 GMT
OK I took everything apart and put it back together. No difference.
Then I swapped out the new hub with a more expensive one, and the
problem went away. I guess China doesn't know how to make 'em. Thanks
for everyone's help!
Mike Romain - 29 Jul 2007 01:01 GMT
> OK I took everything apart and put it back together. No difference.
> Then I swapped out the new hub with a more expensive one, and the
> problem went away. I guess China doesn't know how to make 'em. Thanks
> for everyone's help!

Thanks for the update, it is appreciated.

You had a bad out of the box hub that would have failed, likely in a bad
way if the bearing blew out.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
 
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