 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Jeep / September 2007DOH brakes!
Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision. Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor on the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit, clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout units. The old Chevy was stamped tin. That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly bits and springs. So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts. Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh! Left side was about 3mm on both pads. Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in. Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.  SignatureDougW Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between inner and outer is a sure sign of problems. > Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. > Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between > inner and outer is a sure sign of problems. Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined. Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I did brake work. Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter grease or silicone, but that's all I had. I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't that much over the lifetime. Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and gaskets, or at least gaskets. SignatureDougW The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it. I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!) to get the brakes to quit grabbing. >> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between >> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and > gaskets, or at least gaskets. > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in. > Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was > one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. > > Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem. tw > > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons > back in. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > open up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a > problem. It's one way of doing the job, you basically push the old fluid out and refill from the reservoir instead of having to suction off fluid when you push the pistons back in. It's much easier to push the piston back in also. Your basic hand pressure is enough. SignatureDougW >> > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons >>back in. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > when you push the pistons back in. It's much easier to push the piston > back in also. Your basic hand pressure is enough. Ok. I don't touch the master cylinder at all and just push the pistons back in, leaving the system closed throughout the job. No muss, no fuss. tw >>> > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons >>>back in. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > >tw Yeah, untill you hit one where the guy at Jiffy Lube topped off the m/c the day before. Then ya got brake fluid everywhere. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>>>>Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons >>>> [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > '95 YJ Rio Grande > BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM Psha! It's hard enough to get those guys to put _OIL_ back in the motor...They're going to OPEN the master cylinder?? Hahahhaha! Funny. But I do get your point. tw >> > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons >> back in. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > when you push the pistons back in. It's much easier to push the piston > back in also. Your basic hand pressure is enough. Don't do that on an ABS system, you'll be sorry sooner or later, when a spec of crud gets into the valving. Spdloader > Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little springs on. >> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. >> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little > springs on. You did have the brake spring pliers, right? http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Brake-Spring-Pliers----LIS11260.HTML Chris >>> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. >>> [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > > Chris Yes, evidently we didn't know how to use them properly. It was shear misery getting that last spring on. > "c" wrote... >>>> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too >>>> long. >>> I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was >>> the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> >> http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Brake-Spring-Pliers----LIS11260.HTML Heh.. I have one of those but couldn't find it. :( I just used vice grips. > Yes, evidently we didn't know how to use them properly. It was shear > misery getting that last spring on. I use the hook to walk the old spring off. Then the C notched handle to put the new springs on. Just hook the spring over the handle, hook the C over the big pin, then pry up till the spring slides into place. Easier to show than to type. :/ The Cup is used to take the spring clips off the "nails" and to install them back on. I use a purpose built driver for that. SignatureDougW >> "c" wrote... >>>>> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >The Cup is used to take the spring clips off the "nails" and to >install them back on. I use a purpose built driver for that. Hate to tell you, but you're using them wrong. The"cup" is for taking the top springs off the anchor pin. Put the cup over the pin, rotate the pliers and the little tab on the cup hooks the spring and lifts it over the end of the anchor pin. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> The Cup is used to take the spring clips off the "nails" and to >> install them back on. I use a purpose built driver for that. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the pliers and the little tab on the cup hooks the spring and lifts it > over the end of the anchor pin. doh, your correct. That's why I had to buy one of these for the clips. http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/brandsplace_1964_483072023 And I still can't find my brake pliars. :( Don't ya hate it when tools grow legs..... SignatureDougW >>>The Cup is used to take the spring clips off the "nails" and to >>>install them back on. I use a purpose built driver for that. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > And I still can't find my brake pliars. :( Don't ya hate it when tools > grow legs..... They all have legs, that's why you put leashes on them. Give them an inch..... tw Hi Doug, And your kids grow up, and move away, and you lose that excuse. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ ><snip> > And I still can't find my brake pliars. :( Don't ya hate it when tools > grow legs..... SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>> The Cup is used to take the spring clips off the "nails" and to >>> install them back on. I use a purpose built driver for that. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >And I still can't find my brake pliars. :( Don't ya hate it when tools >grow legs..... Yeah. Where I work now, my projects are spread between 2 buildings and a parking area. Since I'm used to having 2 or 3 stalls within walking distance of my toolbox this either means a lot of walking or leaving tools spread out all over the place. I've worn out a bunch of shoes in the last year and a half walking back and forth looking for tools that I know I'm the only one who's used them. This getting old sh.t sucks, I'm telling you. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> And I still can't find my brake pliars. :( Don't ya hate it when >> tools grow legs..... [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > tools that I know I'm the only one who's used them. > This getting old sh.t sucks, I'm telling you. An excellent reason to buy more tools. :) SignatureDougW DougW proclaimed: >>>And I still can't find my brake pliars. :( Don't ya hate it when >>>tools grow legs..... [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > An excellent reason to buy more tools. :) Yeah. You know you are really getting up there when you find yourself checking out those "geezer model" socket sets at the local Sears with the huge labels. >DougW proclaimed: > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >checking out those "geezer model" socket sets at the local Sears with >the huge labels. I warrantied a couple of Craftsman sockets a while back and the new ones have the laser etched numbers on 'em. I don't like 'em, because when the sockets are dirty it's extremely hard to see the numbers, especilly through old eyes. I much preferred the stamped numbers. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > I warrantied a couple of Craftsman sockets a while back and the new > ones have the laser etched numbers on 'em. I don't like 'em, because > when the sockets are dirty it's extremely hard to see the numbers, > especilly through old eyes. I much preferred the stamped numbers. Noticed that myself. There isn't enough contrast to see the numbers. Wonder if you could fill in the etching with a black sharpie... SignatureDougW >> I warrantied a couple of Craftsman sockets a while back and the new >> ones have the laser etched numbers on 'em. I don't like 'em, because [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Noticed that myself. There isn't enough contrast to see the numbers. > Wonder if you could fill in the etching with a black sharpie... That works good. I do it with my sockets, but I use a marker called a Marks-All. They are even more chemical resistant than a Sharpie. Chris > I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was > the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to > get those little springs on. Sure is, you get your buddy to do it, that's why you start any such job by getting a keg of beer, didn't you know that? ;-) NOTE: Barbeque works well also. >> I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was >> the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > NOTE: Barbeque works well also. It's worth a keg of beer not to ever have to do it again. I repete: shear misery. Zelix proclaimed: >>Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. >> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little > springs on. No but there are a coupla tools that make it easier. I personally didnt care much for the beveled pucks on the Nissan Maxima on the rear. Almost felt like welding them in place and putting on bigger front brakes and a drag parachute for the rear. http://revbeergoggles.com/temp/dabrakes-doh.jpg Heh. The lower left is the worst point. Of course at this thickness if they were rivited the rivits would be grinding. SignatureDougW |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.