You are correct.

There is no need to touch that axle nut unless you are replacing the hub
or it's pressed in bearings.

It 'can' allow the hub to separate even.  I have seen that two or three
times lately when called in for help.  In one case, the hub had to be
replaced, the bearings got wrecked when he tried to compress it back
together using the axle nut.

The whole hub and spindle and axle pull out as one piece and you just
change the u-joint behind it so you just need the brake caliper 'wrench
or tool' and the socket for the 3 hub flange bolts and a BFH to get it
moving the first time.  I carry a spare bolt to use with the BFH to
pound on for stuck ones.

I have a 3/4" old socket that works well for tapping out the old u-joint
also.

The last front one I had to do on my Cherokee took an hour including
going to get the parts. (noticed it just before going camping, that time
I sunk the Cherokee up to the lights in the 'puddle' I think)

It is a 36 mm anyway to answer your question.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

On Sep 25, 9:29 am, snowboardripper <snowboardrip...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

You may also want to carry a tie bar end puller.  I had to remove the
tie bar to get a good swing at the hub flange bolts to get the hub to
come out.  If you want to avoid the trouble on the trail, you could do
the job at home and put anti-seize on everything to make sure it comes
out easily when needed.

On Sep 25, 10:29 am, snowboardripper <snowboardrip...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

This website has a ton of TJ info

On Sep 25, 10:29 am, snowboardripper <snowboardrip...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

OPPS!  here is the link

http://www.stu-offroad.com/