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Car Forum / Jeep / December 200799 JGC Laredo 4.0L I6 stalling
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles, Selec-Trac 4WD... Earlier in the month we had snow and record rainfall which cause flooding and an awful lot of standing water in areas where I drive. To keep a long story short, I'm guessing that something that shouldn't have gotten wet must have because the engine check light came on and the problems started occurring: The trouble codes that came up were: P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor). After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and die. I could easily start it again, but having this happen in traffic is a pain and possibly dangerous. Needing the car, I took it to a local shop and they were able to fix/clear the P1596 trouble code by cleaning/drying the connections to the sensors, but the P0123 code remains even after they installed a new TPS. So it still stalls intermittenly and always at the most incovienent time. I also noticed that as certain times around 20-25 mph it would hiccup for lack of a better word. This would happend when I needed speed/power. Before my Jeep ran like a champ, no probems whatsoever... now it needs a little help to get back to its old self... Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be appreciated! Thank you, Nelson >I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles, >Selec-Trac 4WD... [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >Thank you, >Nelson P.S. I forgot to mention that the cruise control no longer works either. >> I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 >> miles, Selec-Trac 4WD... [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > P.S. I forgot to mention that the cruise control no longer works > either. Apart from checking fuses. Stalls on stop can be the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) It's down on the transmission. Follow the wire up and clean the connector. You could also clean the IAC passage in the throttle body. http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html The loss of cruise sounds like power or vacuum. Check the vac lines off the back of the intake rail to make sure none of them have come loose.  SignatureDougW > I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles, > Selec-Trac 4WD... [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > Any information, suggestions, possible fixes would highly be > appreciated! I'm guessing this has an auto transmission, which probably means 2 throttle position sensors in a stack. More to the point, it will mean 2 connectors. Given the circumstances, I would be pulling the connectors apart and clean them with contact cleaner and a stiff brush. In a pinch, WD40 will do a fair job, but you need to clean the contacts, not just blow them dry. When you re-connect them, coat the rubber seal ring on the connector with silicone grease (spark plug grease) before you plug them in. Then repeat for the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. All are sensitive to moisture and prone to build up some corrosion. Odds on, if they just blew the water out they didn't really get the connectors clean. SignatureWill Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles, > Selec-Trac 4WD... [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Thank you, > Nelson You are still describing a TPS connection failure with the racing and stalling. The new part only cleaned 'half' the connection. Spray contact cleaner or even WD40 is called for like Will mentions. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com > > I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles, > > Selec-Trac 4WD... [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Yikes, not WD-40 - good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. www.deoxit.com Mike > Yikes, not WD-40 - good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in > awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED> Listen you freaking SPAMMER, WD40 is called 'water displacement fluid # 40. It is 'designed to be used on electrical connections and 'WORKS VERY WELL' for this. Your deoxit is Spam sh.t that will not fix the problem. WD40 is better! WD40 at least adds a seal that your SPAM junk doesn't. I would 'NEVER" buy Spammed snake oil, Your product only deserves a BOYCOTT! Keep Spamming my posts all over Usenet and I 'WILL' start a Boycott campaign. A 'real' electronic contact cleaner is called for with dielectric grease on the seal skirts to do a proper job. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com mike you beloved wd gets into the plastics of the sensors and degrades the plastic (both are made from petro chemicals)actully causing more damge to sensors in the long run and in the case of the oring the tps sensor needs to seal from a vacumm leak will cause the oring to fall apart i see it alot > > Yikes, not WD-40 - good temporatary fix, but could make it worse in > > awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. <SPAM SNIPPED> [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build > Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com I was responding to a scumbucket Spammer and I was talking about the 'electrical connection' on the sensors, not the sensors themselves. As well I did 'pointedly' state that a proper electronic contact cleaner was the best way to go as did Will whom I quoted as having the proper idea by saying 'In a pinch, WD40 will do a fair job'. Maybe you should read the thread before butting in on a scumbucket's post or are you his alter ego? Is that your SPAM name? Mike > mike you beloved wd gets into the plastics of the sensors and degrades the > plastic (both are made from petro chemicals)actully causing more damge to [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build >> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com no spamming mike just making sure the other readers of this group get the correct info not just what you thunk is the right info i work on more vehilces in a half day than you do all year and i find some of your posts on cj7 are top notch but those days are fading away it is a new century and you are stuck in the last one > I was responding to a scumbucket Spammer and I was talking about the > 'electrical connection' on the sensors, not the sensors themselves. [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > >> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build > >> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com > shaqt...@aol.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build > Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of electronics experiences with electrical connections. Since this is a closed newsgroup, you all should discuss what you want. Perhaps you should have a intranet newsgroup so nobody else can view your discussion and make any comments/suggesstions. Also, vulgar comments are not recommended/professional on an OPEN newsgroup. Mike YOU ARE A LYING SCUMBUCKET SPAMMER!! The fact you are a bald faced liar says it all. A quick Google search shows your email name is only used to SPAM newsgroups with your snake oil. Google shows 157 of your SPAM posts. You wanna play? I will contact the company about your unwanted SPAM and your lies and offer to start an internet Boycott of their product solely because of 'You' and your lies. We will see how long you keep selling that snake oil now won't we? Mike > Somehow I got an email mentioning a problem with electrical > connections. My appologiges for making a comment on MY 40 years of [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > newsgroup. > Mike Give it a rest... The sh.t works! Try give it a try. In stead of flapping your lips. I came to the conclusion, that the the reason your eye's are brown is the fact that you are full of sh.t! >YOU ARE A LYING SCUMBUCKET SPAMMER!! > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> newsgroup. >> Mike > Give it a rest... The sh.t works! > Try give it a try. Any 'product' some scumbucket has to SPAM on Usenet to find suckers to buy because it won't sell in real life is commonly called 'Snake Oil'. He 'is' a lying scumbucket, he spammed all of Usenet with his garbage and lied about someone asking him to. I don't give a sh.t if it is a gold plating spray to stop corrosion, if it has to be Spammed it is garbage! Most legit advertisers will go away when they find out that this 'rec' hierarchy Usenet group has a Charter forbidding commercial posts. Only total Scum persists Ryan. Mike clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery termianls too poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than 2000's > > > I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L I6, over 130,000 miles, > > > Selec-Trac 4WD... [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > awhile. Use deoxIT on all connections, works EVERY time. www.deoxit.com > Mike His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act. Why are you reposting SPAM? Not once, but twice now. Mike > clean carbon off the throttle plate and throttle body and then clean battery > termianls too [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build >>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text - <spam snipped> mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's findings(hence a potentiometer) to a pcm and then that pcm decides what to do and then tells the iac what to do > His symptoms of revving high then stalling point directly to a bad > connection on the TPS. This is exactly how they act. [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > >>> > <spam snipped> For ten years I 'repaired' my 'dead' according to the $tealer, TPS on my 88 Cherokee every couple years by cleaning it's connection. The symptoms for mine and many many more I have helped with this advice are: it revs high on start up, then stalls at the stop signs. This happens often after a run through water where the fan picks it up and sprays it. 'Every' one with these symptoms that I have seen and read about were 'fixed' by simply cleaning the connection with a spray contact cleaner. This also goes for several 'transmission failures' including more than one sucker that got hit for a rebuilt, that were only the TPS giving a bad signal 'because of the dirty connection'. Mike > mike you have the theory of the operation of a t.p sensor mixed up > it in no way controls idle( unless stuck)95 and newer) it just reports it's [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >>> poor battery connections casue all sorts of stalling issues in cars newer than >>> 2000's The trouble codes that came up were: >>>>>> P1596 (Speed control switch), and P0123 (Throttle position sensor). >>>>>> After starting the engine, the rpms would race up past 2k then come >>>>>> back down to normal. When slowing down or stopping it would stall and >>>>>> die. |
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