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Car Forum / Jeep / March 2008Battery Cables for 1998 Cherokee
Need to replace the OEM battery cables. Has anyone used 3 or 2 gauge ? Does anybody make a kit. And was looking for a quick-disconect for the top posts on the battery. Mike what did you use on your Cherokee. Mark in Michigan > Need to replace the OEM battery cables. Has anyone used 3 or 2 gauge ? Does > anybody make a kit. And was looking for a quick-disconect for the top posts [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Mark in Michigan Most auto parts stores carry 4 ga replacement cables in various lengths, just bring in your old cables and match them up length wise. 4ga. cables are about twice as thick as stock. If you want/need something heavier you can use welding cables. >> Need to replace the OEM battery cables. Has anyone used 3 or 2 gauge ? Does >> anybody make a kit. And was looking for a quick-disconect for the top posts [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >about twice as thick as stock. If you want/need something heavier you can use >welding cables. I've seen 2 AWG 'universal' cables as well. Though I agree, 4 AWG is more than enough for this application. > Need to replace the OEM battery cables. Has anyone used 3 or 2 gauge ? Does > anybody make a kit. And was looking for a quick-disconect for the top posts [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Mark in Michigan I used replacements for stock 'and' I ran a new dedicated body ground full sized from the battery negative to replace that mesh cable from the head to the firewall that likes to rot. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com > I used replacements for stock 'and' I ran a new dedicated body ground > full sized from the battery negative to replace that mesh cable from the > head to the firewall that likes to rot. While braid tends to rot, RF likes it a lot better as RF travels on the surface. I'd leave or replace the braid and add a heavy ground cable. >> I used replacements for stock 'and' I ran a new dedicated body ground >> full sized from the battery negative to replace that mesh cable from [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > surface. > I'd leave or replace the braid and add a heavy ground cable. OK, I just gotta... If the braid transmits RF better, wouldn't that allow spark and alternator noise to pollute the body easier and be a bad thing? I always thought it was for flex because of all the movement. Mike > OK, I just gotta... > > If the braid transmits RF better, wouldn't that allow spark and > alternator noise to pollute the body easier and be a bad thing? > > I always thought it was for flex because of all the movement. Bass-ackwards, Mike. The braid is to establish an rf ground in common between the engine/drivetrain and the body as well as the dc ground. The flex was a bonus. Way back when, we commonly had to run braid straps between the hood and the firewall or the tailpipe and the body. This was most common with mobile transmitters but it made noticeable differences in the radio. Of course, this was back in the days of AM radio only and I was mostly in West Texas where the signals were weak, at best, anyway.  SignatureWill Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> OK, I just gotta... >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > the radio. Of course, this was back in the days of AM radio only and I was > mostly in West Texas where the signals were weak, at best, anyway. General rule of thumb for RF. Any ground longer than it is wide isn't an RF ground. Granted there is a bit of fudge for lower wavelength RF, but pretty much applies. The advantage of the braid is you have orders of magnitude more surface area, since the RF will tend to be skin effect on a lot of smaller conductors rather than the less efficient fewer larger ones. But yes, the better the path between the engine and body, the less noise you get elsewhere. |
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