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Car Forum / Jeep / March 2008

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Help: CHerokee Hub Removal

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Blabber - 14 Mar 2008 00:53 GMT
In the online directions on replacing ujoints
(http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?page=u-joint-replacement), threes a
mention of removing the three bolts with 16 point heads that hold the hub
assembly.  What kind of socket or special tool do I use to unscrew a bolt
with a 16 point head ?

Thanks for any advice
jeff - 14 Mar 2008 01:11 GMT
> In the online directions on replacing ujoints
> (http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?page=u-joint-replacement), threes a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Thanks for any advice
It's an external 12 point torx. A 12 point open end or socket that is
close can be tapped on. Go to the stealership and buy one spare bolt
because you will use one with a BFH to separate the hub.

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jeff

L.W.(ßill)Hughes III - 14 Mar 2008 01:34 GMT
Draw a vertical line across the bolt in their picture and you able to
count six for twelve. According to:
http://www.billhughes.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm it's a 13mm and
you'll need another 36mm for the axle.
       God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
       mailto:BillHughes@billhughes.com
 http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm

> In the online directions on replacing ujoints
> (http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?page=u-joint-replacement), threes a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Thanks for any advice

Signature

Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Pink Freud - 14 Mar 2008 07:15 GMT
On an otherwise nice day, Bill (Mr. ED) Hughes lied:

>     Draw a vertical line across the bolt in their picture and you able to
> count six for twelve. According to:
> http://www.billhughes.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm it's a 13mm and
> you'll need another 36mm for the axle.

Clear as mud, as always.

However, since you have a 16-pointed head and are as dumb as a fork, you
should know.

And you should know about unscrewing, cuz you sure don't know anything
about screwing anymore, Mr. ED.

>         God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>         mailto:BillHughes@billhughes.com
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>>
>> Thanks for any advice

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Terry Dactille ©~® - 14 Mar 2008 11:03 GMT
>On an otherwise nice day, Bill (Mr. ED) Hughes lied:
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>>>
>>> Thanks for any advice

Dumb as a river rock!
--

“A winner makes commitment. A loser makes promises.”

“The path of least resistance is the path of the loser.”
Terry Dactille ©~® - 14 Mar 2008 10:57 GMT
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 17:11:07 -0800, "L.W.\(ßill\)Hughes III"
<BillHughes@billhughes.com> wrote:

>    Draw a vertical line across the bolt in their picture and you able to
>count six for twelve. According to:
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>        mailto:BillHughes@billhughes.com
>  http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm

New kind of English in vista Kalyfornia spoken by Lardwellyn W. (Bill)
Hughes III, man without a country, Loser, derelict, Hobo, & Minuet
Queen, giving away free penis.

--

“A winner makes commitment. A loser makes promises.”

“The path of least resistance is the path of the loser.”
Mike Romain - 14 Mar 2008 15:29 GMT
> In the online directions on replacing ujoints
> (http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?page=u-joint-replacement), threes a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Thanks for any advice

You can make a 12 point, 13mm I believe it is fit on.

I highly recommend you start soaking the hub flange joint and the bolt
ends with a good penetrating oil.

The hubs do 'not' usually want to come off the first time.  A good
application of antiseize on the mating flange does them wonders for next
time.

I use a spare bolt to replace each one, one at a time for beating on.  I
cut the steering to the side so I have room to swing the BFH or Newfie
Framing hammer or 5 lb sledge to hit that sacrificial bolt.  I then cut
the wheel to the other side after I move the bolt back there to beat on
it again.

A puller will not work, the hub will blow apart.

There is 'no' need to remove the 36mm axle nut unless you are changing
the hub.  To do so can allow the hub to separate which means you have to
buy a new one, they do not go back together without special presses.

The hub and axle all pull out as one piece, you then replace the u-joint
and slide it all back in.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Blabber - 14 Mar 2008 17:38 GMT
Hi Mike:

Thanks for your note (an everyone else who replied)

To remove the hub, have you ever tried the trick mentioned in the linked
article of wedging in a socket extension and turning the wheel?  Seems to me
that that approach could jam the hub a bit sideways making it a bit more
difficult to remove.

>> In the online directions on replacing ujoints
>> (http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?page=u-joint-replacement), threes a
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> 'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
nrs - 14 Mar 2008 17:53 GMT
> Hi Mike:
>
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

I tried it once and it did not work, didn't even come close to moving
the hub.  Mike's technique is the best and worked for me.  It took a
lot of hammering!  You don't need to get an extra bolt at a
dealership, any bolt that fits the threads perfectly and is long
enough will work fine.
Mike Romain - 14 Mar 2008 18:51 GMT
No, I wouldn't use that for fear of damaging the ear on the axle stub.
I have seen shops use that and a hammer and have seen more than one come
to me broken/cracked there already from 'something'...

Even the hammer way jams a bit, so you need to go front, back, then
bottom (from the front) usually.  Maybe twice around even.

Mike

> Hi Mike:
>
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>> 'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com 
 
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