Bought my rear break parts last month for 86 CJ7, $125.00 got me new
shoes, new drums, new cylinders, and spring kit. I've never done brakes
before, daughter took first year machanics and neighbour was machanic for 45
years, so I'll do them myself and get them to double check. I just bolted my
rear end under my new frame so don't know when they will get done. But I
think if like me you bought all the parts and did one at a time so you had
the other to go by, it's just a matter of taking apart and putting back
together.

Yes, for sure.  It takes me about a half hour per side to replace shoes
and if needed a new drum.  Parts should run less than $100.00.  You
might want to get a spring kit as well as the shoes.  This comes with
springs and new adjusters.

When you do them, only take apart one side at a time.  There are left
and right side parts that can't be mixed, namely the star wheel
adjusters.  You can open the other side to follow it for reassembly, but
just don't take them both off.  I know my stuff so took both off one
time a bit ago.  Well a friend was 'playing' with parts and swapped the
adjusters by mistake on me.  Figured it out when the pedal kept going to
the floor.

I like to coat the adjuster threads and all the pivot points with a skim
of antiseize to keep things working right, more than for ease of removal
next time.

A digital camera can be your friend.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

Hi Mark,
   There's not much in the way of tools needed, but you need a safe level
place to put the rear axle up on jack stands. A trick I use is to slide the
rear wheels under the frame so as if it falls while prying on various parts,
the body will not pin me to the ground, wondering how long I will live
without a breath. Rather than blowing the dust away with air and into my
lungs, I use water pressure. I place the removed parts on the wheel rim
(just under the frame, for safety) in the same position they look on the
backing plate, saves trying to remember which colored springs went where,
and accidentally mixing left and right handed threaded adjusters. You may
have metal to metal, and will have cut a ridge cut into the drum, preventing
the drum from sliding off, take a small screwdriver through the access hole
and push the ratchet lever back so you may turn the adjusting star, backing
it off with another larger bent screwdriver or tool:
http://billhughes.com/brakeAdjuster.jpg  . At that age the drum will have
rusted to the axle, I use penetrating oil, like WD-40 to soak in around the
lug studs, and center, then ring the drum like a bell with a hammer, in a
pushing it on direction, and with luck it'll bounce back at you. Use
penetration oil on the slave cylinder's bleeder, and then use the exact
sized socket to loosen it to know it works before you find it breaks off
after assembly. Go ahead and replace the cups. If the drums show normal
wear, no ridge, and you haven't felt an oscillation on slowing down, meaning
it's out of round, then I wouldn't cut that precious meat away turning them.
Make sure the long shoe goes to the rear, and that they bottom out on their
anchor at the cylinder.
http://billhughes.com/brakeShoes.jpg
       God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
       mailto:BillHughes@billhughes.com
 http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm

OK so I took off one wheel today (the one that I was told was the bad one)
and the drum is really rusty and the rim edge is broken off in places. It
doesn't look that bad but I can tell if you were to drop it on it's edge, it
would probably break a few big chunks off.

I went to Autozone to price parts, and I decided to completely redo both
sides- new drums, springs, pads, and shoes. Now the weird part. Spring kit
and pads are standard, in stock $6 and $22, so $28 so far. However, they
show two drums- one is "plain" and is $61 each and has to be ordered. The
other is "finned" and is $15 in stock. The picture on his computer is the
same exact drum for each, so I don't know how to tell the difference. There
are two different brake cylinders. One is for a 7/8" brake line and one is
for a 15/16" brake line and he said it won't be stamped anywhere, I have to
bring it in. One is $11 in stock and the other is $45 and has to be ordered.
The problem here is I drive this car and I'd rather have all the parts when
I start rather than disassemble one day and reassemble a few days later.

Anyone know how I can tell which drum and wheel cylinder I have? One
solution would be to order all the parts, use which ones I need and then
return the rest.

I also bought a cheap brake tool kit at Harbor Freight for $8. I figure I'll
only be doing this rarely so why by Craftsman. The tools have no
instructions, so I guess I'll be looking for help on the internet.

I went to NAPA today and bought all my parts. The Jeep is chocked and up on
jack stands and the first wheel is off. I took the new drum and tried to
slip it on just to see if it fit, and it won't go on. I compared it to the
old one and it looks the same, but it won't clear the old shoes. I hope it's
because the old drum was probably machined and the old shoes were adjusted
to fit the larger bore of the old drum. I sprayed brake cleaner over
everything real good and I hit the nuts that hold on the cylinder with wd
40. I will begin the project soon. There was no evidence of brake fluid on
the old parts. I'm wondering if I really need to bother with changing out
the brake cylinder? I hope I can get help from the group when needed.

Spent part of yesterday tearing down one side. I took digital photos along
the way. There are two potential snags.

First, the linkages etc associated with the emergency brake. They were
hidden from view by the shoes, so I couldn't really get a good look or a
photo of how that all connected. There is a piece of hardware directly
hooked to the cable and I just let it hang for now, I didn't see any sense
taking it apart from the cable if it isn't necessary.

Second, there is a piece attached to the shoe farthest back...the left shoe
when looking at the right rear. I think its an actuator lever? (I don't have
my Haynes book with me) Anyway, the book says to make sure not to lose the
pivot. Well there's no chance of that since it's looks to be in there too
good. The pivot won't slide out, feels more like a rivet. I hit it good with
wd 40 and I'll pry it out I guess. The spring kit looks like it has some of
these so I'll use a new one if I booger up the old one.

I took the rubber boots off the wheel cylinders and the insides look
pristine, so I'm going to go with the old ones.

OK so I did one side last night. Everything went OK. I used C-clamps for a
second pair of hands. The brake tool kit helped with the springs. Had I
known it would be this easy, I'd started doing my own brakes years ago. I
didn't change out the cylindars, so that made it easier I'm sure. I did hit
a snag though. The new drums are too small. I adhusted the shoes all the way
in and the new drum will bareley slide on. I have them in the car plus one
of the old ones and I'll head over to NAPA at lunch. I hope they can fix it
for me. Also a friend told me that after I'm done I should travel 10' or so
in reverse and hit the brakes several times. He said the brakes self adjust
but only in reverse. Any truth to that?

So I just completed my first brake job! I think I solved the problem of the
tight drums by loosening the cap to the brake resevoir (thanks Mike) and
pushing the shoes in by hand. I was then able to slide the drums on with a
little drag. I got the wheels on and drove it three or four times backward
and forward then hitting the brakes hard. Then I took it for a spin. The
pedal feels right, and the force it takes to brake feels right. The brakes
don't make any scraping sounds and they don't squeel anymore. On a slight
grade, in neutral, the car will roll freely. Even though I did not re-adjust
anything after I got it back together, I think I'm good to go. I was able to
complete the second side in under thirty minutes since I learned from the
first side. I wish I had tried this when I was in my twenties (30 years ago)
as I could have saved a lot of money over the years. Thanks to all who
helped.

Mark