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Car Forum / Jeep / December 20084.0L intake/exhaust gaskets
hi there My Clifford intake manifold and exhaust header came with a gasket that needs to soak in water before it is installed. When installed dry (according to Clifford) it WILL break. Are there gaskets better than 'regular' gaskets? or are they prone to break/leak even worse (better) than the 'regular' gaskets? To me it seems that once it is dry again, it will easier break and 're- torquing' doesn't seem to be an option either. any ideas and or experiences on that? Ron > hi there > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > any ideas and or experiences on that? Got me there. Never had to soak any gasket. But that is what the site says, interesting. There are dozens of gaskets including those with built-in o-rings. Can't say one is any better than the other, although some claim to be reusable. At any rate the first and most important thing is to make sure the head and rails are clean and free of any carbon traces or old gasket. Don't use sandpaper or anthing that will put down scratches, just good solvent and maby some 000 steel wool. Use a few wads of paper towel to keep junk from falling into the engine. My usual method is to apply a smear of Permatex copper form-a-gasket onto the head and a bit more to the gasket before putting on the intake/exhaust rails. But I have no idea what that would do with a wet gasket. Suggest you follow the directions. Watch the torque sequence, and if you haven't already, remove the air cleaner box, it makes things easier to get at.  SignatureDougW On Nov 28, 3:16 pm, "DougW" <I.only.read.use...@invalid.address> wrote: > > hi there > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > -- > DougW Well, the head is new, the exhaust and intake are too. this whole 258 <--> 4.0 head upgrade is partly to get rid of the annoying always popping up exhaust leak and valvecover leak (and get a few more horses in the process) I just don't want to deal with an exhaust leak every spring anymore. So I rather get a real good gasket instead of screwing around with one that is prone to break i welded my exhaust manifold 2 years ago and still is good a preloaded exhaust system will crack any header the idea is to let it hang and not be under any tenson example ---- like resting on the trans cross member > On Nov 28, 3:16 pm, "DougW" <I.only.read.use...@invalid.address> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > So I rather get a real good gasket instead of screwing around with one > that is prone to break > To me it seems that once it is dry again, it will easier break and > 're- torquing' doesn't seem to be an option either. Once it's stuck in there it shouldn't break. re-torquing (or at least re-checking the torque) is always a good idea after the engine has warmed up/cooled down, and a few weeks after that. I do it by hand, but that takes a "feel". You should be able to get at most of the bolts with a torque wrench. After you torque one down, put a crecent wrench on there and feel how tight it is. They arn't nearly as tight as you might first think. On Nov 28, 3:19 pm, "DougW" <I.only.read.use...@invalid.address> wrote: > > To me it seems that once it is dry again, it will easier break and > > 're- torquing' doesn't seem to be an option either. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > there and feel how tight it is. They arn't nearly as tight as you might > first think. I know, it doesn't take much, torque wise. I just wart to do it right the first time. I'm replacing the 258 head with a 4.0 use a new intake manifold and exhaust header from Clifford and be done with it for at least a few years. if there is a better gasket , I'll take it. It doesn't make sense to spend 2,000 on a conversion and not use the best possible gasket I've heard the copper metal gasket is a good gasket as it wont crack (not copper RTV). DougW is on the money when he says to re-tighten the manifold bolts regularly. Especially the first month or two after you install the manifold (they will come loose). If you routinely tighten the bolts, any gasket will last a long time. > hi there > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Ron > I've heard the copper metal gasket is a good gasket as it wont crack (not > copper RTV). DougW is on the money when he says to re-tighten the manifold [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > - Show quoted text - correct, manifold bolts need to be checked and re-torqued once in a while after install. However the 'soak in water' gasket breaks when torqued when not wet so re-torqueing will break it too when dry again. (unless there's some chemical process at work). I am assuming that a good gasket will work as well. (is there a difference between gaskets for headers vs exhaust manifolds?) I don't think so. A gasket is a gasket (some better quality than others). However, I'm no gasket expert. FYI, I bought the set of gaskets for my headers with the thin sheet of metal sandwiched between the outer (asbestos?) layers. I think they were Mr. Gasket brand. It's been four years with no leaks. On Nov 28, 4:18 pm, "Jo Baggs" <J...@says.shadup> wrote: > I've heard the copper metal gasket is a good gasket as it wont crack (not > copper RTV). DougW is on the money when he says to re-tighten the manifold [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > - Show quoted text - correct, manifold bolts need to be checked and re-torqued once in a while after install. However the 'soak in water' gasket breaks when torqued when not wet so re-torqueing will break it too when dry again. (unless there's some chemical process at work). I am assuming that a good gasket will work as well. (is there a difference between gaskets for headers vs exhaust manifolds?) > I don't think so. A gasket is a gasket (some better quality than > others). However, I'm no gasket expert. FYI, I bought the set of > gaskets for my headers with the thin sheet of metal sandwiched > between the outer (asbestos?) layers. I think they were Mr. Gasket > brand. It's been four years with no leaks. That is the same as OEM brand. They are supposed to be reusable but mine pulled apart. They seal well, but the dealership head wrencher told me to always use permatex copper on them. SignatureDougW On Nov 29, 12:24 am, "DougW" <I.only.read.use...@invalid.address> wrote: > > I don't think so. A gasket is a gasket (some better quality than > > others). However, I'm no gasket expert. FYI, I bought the set of [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > -- > DougW I never reuse gaskets, it's just not worth the trouble Ron, What is the flange thickness of the header at the head? The only real problem I had on my conversion was using a cheap-a.s header with a 5/16" thick flange. Over time the flange distorted and I couldn't keep a gasket from blowing out. Bought a better unit with a 3/8" flange and had no more problems. I used a regular Fel-Pro gasket. Good luck. C. > hi there > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Ron > Ron, > What is the flange thickness of the header at the head? The only real [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > - Show quoted text - hi Charles the flange is pretty thick. Clifford performance headers and intake manifolds seem lo be pretty good I heard. I guess they wouldn't go the cheap way out on a gasket. I just never heard of gaskets you have to soak in water before. |
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