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Car Forum / Jeep / January 2004Adjust YJ door striker
OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty pull to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure that he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?  SignatureCarlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II O|||||||O '92 Explorer '65 Mustang > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty pull > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true? Pair of channel locks, unscrew the striker and the round plate is mates up with and put a washer in there (if you need to go that direction) or take one off (if there's already one). And yeah you may need the fine alignment tool AKA BFH... the doors may be sagging a little on the hinges. Should be visible from the gap between the body the lower door. If so; a hunk of pressure treated wood and the fine alignment tool against the hinge loops in the relevant direction should help. If it's really bad you may want to loosen the hinges but getting to the winshield/upper door hinge nuts is a whole 'nother post. SignatureSimon "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some. You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up. Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded closed once bent back in shape. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty pull > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > O|||||||O > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang Thanks I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll be back. SignatureCarlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II O|||||||O '92 Explorer '65 Mustang > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > O|||||||O > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang Ouch.... In and out isn't usually a good thing.... When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar. Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some attention.... Mike > Thanks > I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > > > O|||||||O > > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang OK.......haven't ignored the group - just haven't had time to look yet. bought our house in Sept & already doing a refi, son is transferring from Cal State LA to Chico State so most of the time we spend together is doing paper work (for school, our house, his new apt, etc), buying books, food - yadda, yadda, yadda. so specifically where & how do I look for the separation? I'm guessing that I look around the wheel well (from the outside) - or are we talking about from the inside on the floor boards in front of & behind of the side of the back seat? SignatureCarlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II O|||||||O '92 Explorer '65 Mustang > Ouch.... > [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > > > > O|||||||O > > > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang The ones I have seen broken away were on the inside just behind the roll bar on the vertical front of the wheel well under the carpet. When really bad, they tear all along the inside top of the wheel well too There also was evidence of the tear on the outside up under the front of the rear wheel well. Hard to see with the tire in the way though. If they get bad enough, it ends up with someone having to lift up on the tail light so the door closes easy. (been there, done that, went 'glass) If someone can lift up on that tail light and the door closes easy, you/he has a lot of work ahead of him. Mike > OK.......haven't ignored the group - just haven't had time to look yet. > bought our house in Sept & already doing a refi, son is transferring from [quoted text clipped - 89 lines] > > > > > O|||||||O > > > > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated well, it can do some serious damage. > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty pull > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true? Left handed BFHs are the only ones that need calibration. Right handed BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled. They have been for quite some time. > Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated > well, it can do some serious damage. Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/tj/twaldron/index.html (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ > Left handed BFHs are the only ones that need calibration. Right handed > BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled. > They have been for quite some time. You have to be careful with the liquid cooling. Too much of the liquid takes away from the accuracy of the BFH, and if the BFH is not calibrated well, then the combination of too much liquid, poor accuracy and bad calibration makes for serious adjustment errors. Very true. Liquid mercury cooled are the worst as far as causing poor accuracy if overfilled or poorly calibrated. While they stopped making these in the 50s, there are still plenty of garages around that have them. If you try and take them in for recalibration, they quite often will be confiscated. >>Left handed BFHs are the only ones that need calibration. Right handed >>BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > then the combination of too much liquid, poor accuracy and bad calibration > makes for serious adjustment errors. Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/tj/twaldron/index.html (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ The real trouble comes from the liquid cooled operators. The chilled Coors and MGDs can really get a poorly calibrated BFH to swing too fast, and if the accuracy is diminished then the next swing can be even faster. > Very true. Liquid mercury cooled are the worst as far as causing poor > accuracy if overfilled or poorly calibrated. While they stopped making [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > then the combination of too much liquid, poor accuracy and bad calibration > > makes for serious adjustment errors. The interesting phenomenon here is that the results of the diminished accuracy is rarely evident for up to 24 hours. Quite often, the liquid cooled operators feel that all of the poorly calibrated swings were quite accurate and are dumbfounded at the results 24 hours later. I suspect that is where most of the late model flat fenders come from. > The real trouble comes from the liquid cooled operators. The chilled Coors > and MGDs can really get a poorly calibrated BFH to swing too fast, and if [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > >>>makes for serious adjustment errors. Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/tj/twaldron/index.html (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ I have read that when one "learns" a motor coordination that it can only be duplicated with the same skill under the same state of consciousness that it was learned. I believe that this is the reason that I have to have a certain number of beers before I am able to shoot pool & then I must replenish @ a very specific rate to maintain this level of "altered state of consciousness" to continue to play........too much & I get sloppy........too little & I lose precision. SignatureCarlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II O|||||||O '92 Explorer '65 Mustang > The interesting phenomenon here is that the results of the diminished > accuracy is rarely evident for up to 24 hours. Quite often, the liquid [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > > >>>makes for serious adjustment errors. I'll drink to that. ;-) God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > I have read that when one "learns" a motor coordination that it can only be > duplicated with the same skill under the same state of consciousness that it [quoted text clipped - 91 lines] > > (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) > > ___________________________________________________________ |
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