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Car Forum / Jeep / February 2004

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Engine backfire

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ezeppelin@msn.com - 18 Feb 2004 00:19 GMT
What are the most common causes and remedies for engine backfire?  

(At least, I think backfire is the correct term for my problem...  it
is an occasional loud 'bang' as if from gunfire,  which seems to
emanate from near the catalytic converters under my floorboard rather
than up in the engine compartment.)

Anyway,  assuming that I am using the correct term...   I have a jeep
with a fuel injected chevy engine,  and it backfires from time to
time.  Every occurence is when the engine is revving down (e.g., I put
the clutch in.)  However, beyond that, there is no rhyme or reason...
sometimes it will happen 3 times in an hour,  other times it might go
weeks with no backfire.  I can't detect any other common factor
besides revving down (e.g., it happens regardless of whether the
engine is hot or cold, what gas I'm running, etc.)
PLB49 - 18 Feb 2004 00:29 GMT
>What are the most common causes and remedies for engine backfire?  

Too much oxygen in exhaust, letting unburned HCs ignite prior to catalysis.  

Bad EGR, O2 sensor, hole in exhaust system prior to catalytic convertor, or
maybe other bits & pieces of anti-pollution crap!  

Had a REAL problem with this in my '84 Isuzu Trooper II 1.9L 4-spd.  If it
hadn't eventually been fixed under 50k pollution crap warranty, I would have
taken a wrench to someone's noggin!  Three very frustrating, indecisive trips
to dealer required, followed by a nastygram to dealership owner finally got it
straight!

Best of luck!

Paul B.
01 XJ
William Oliveri - 18 Feb 2004 01:18 GMT
This is what Chris (c) wrote in one of my threads regarding a leak down
test.  Note the reference to an occasional popping:

"It is most common for racers to use leakdown to test the condition of their
engine, but there is much more you can diagnose with it. An engine can show
relatively good compression numbers and still have a problem, but not
necessarily all the time. For instance, a head gasket that has started to
seep (and will fail eventually) doesn't always get detected with a
compression test due to the short time the cylinder sees pressure while
cranking the engine. A leakdown test will find that seeping gasket if the
air is left on long enough. I have also detected a bad exhaust valve with a
leakdown that wasn't detected with a compression test. This particular
engine ran fine, except for an very infrequent pop out the exhaust pipe. The
leakdown showed it was only holding 40% as compared to 80-85 for the other
cylinders. When we tore the heads off, there was an exhaust valve with a
small crack from the stem out to the valve seat. I would bet that eventually
this valve would have broke and caused some serious damage. It was on a
Dodge 440 that got driven pretty hard."

Hope this helps,

Bill

> What are the most common causes and remedies for engine backfire?
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> besides revving down (e.g., it happens regardless of whether the
> engine is hot or cold, what gas I'm running, etc.)
Nick N - 18 Feb 2004 02:21 GMT
You may have a gap or hole in the pipe before the oxygen sensor.  It will
eventually burn out your cat converter also and you'll have to replace it to
make it through emmisions.
Nick

> What are the most common causes and remedies for engine backfire?
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> besides revving down (e.g., it happens regardless of whether the
> engine is hot or cold, what gas I'm running, etc.)
L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 18 Feb 2004 02:27 GMT
    As Paul said you have oxygen in the exhaust, common on SMOG engines
with an air pump, but an injected engine shouldn't have one to pass
SMOG. Do you have one anyway carried over from an old AMC engine? Or you
have an exhaust header leak that needs to be fixed.
       God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

> What are the most common causes and remedies for engine backfire?
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> besides revving down (e.g., it happens regardless of whether the
> engine is hot or cold, what gas I'm running, etc.)
ezeppelin@msn.com - 19 Feb 2004 02:26 GMT
Yick.  Tracing out smog and exhaust leaks are way beyond my skill set.
(in other words, sounds like I'm in for a pricey repair.)

What is the downside to leaving it unrepaired?  (Emissions are not a
concern as I have antqiue tags and am therefore inspection exempt.)

Also...  it is virtually always sounds like it is the right exhaust
pipe, not the left.  Does this indicate that my air leak is probably
in that half of the system?

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III <billhughes@cox.net> wrote in message news:<4032CD9E.F2394E1@cox.net>...
> As Paul said you have oxygen in the exhaust, common on SMOG engines
> with an air pump, but an injected engine shouldn't have one to pass
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > besides revving down (e.g., it happens regardless of whether the
> > engine is hot or cold, what gas I'm running, etc.)
L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 19 Feb 2004 02:36 GMT
    Make yourself a stethoscope and see if you can find it cold.
Leaving it leak will foul your oxygen sensor, making your electronic
injection richer, which in turn fouls your spark plugs and washes down
your cylinder walls of lubricant, hastening wear.
       God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

> Yick.  Tracing out smog and exhaust leaks are way beyond my skill set.
>  (in other words, sounds like I'm in for a pricey repair.)
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> pipe, not the left.  Does this indicate that my air leak is probably
> in that half of the system?
Will Honea - 19 Feb 2004 06:48 GMT
Just wondering - wouldn't the old test of hanging a shop cloth over
the end of the tailpipe pretty well identify a possible valve problem?
Hold it so it hangs straight over the end of the pipe.  It will blow
out, maybe falling back to touch the pipe, unless you have an actual
exhaust valve problem which will try and suck it up the pipe when that
cylinder is in the right position.  That will cause a backfire, BTW,
and it can be pretty hard to spot if it's a weak valve spring.

On Thu, 19 Feb 2004 02:36:46 UTC L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
<billhughes@cox.net> wrote:

>      Make yourself a stethoscope and see if you can find it cold.
> Leaving it leak will foul your oxygen sensor, making your electronic
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> > pipe, not the left.  Does this indicate that my air leak is probably
> > in that half of the system?

Signature

Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 20 Feb 2004 00:35 GMT
     A bad valve does give an inconstant back pressure sound that
reminds me of an old Crist Craft motor boat.
       God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

> Just wondering - wouldn't the old test of hanging a shop cloth over
> the end of the tailpipe pretty well identify a possible valve problem?
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> cylinder is in the right position.  That will cause a backfire, BTW,
> and it can be pretty hard to spot if it's a weak valve spring.
ezeppelin@msn.com - 19 Feb 2004 23:26 GMT
> Make yourself a stethoscope and see if you can find it cold.

Not sure I follow.  If by "cold" you mean with the engine not
running...  there wouldn't be any sound anywhere in the system... so
I'm not sure how I would find the leak with a stethoscope?
L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 20 Feb 2004 00:40 GMT
    A crack in the exhaust system will be less likely to be found after
the metals have expanded with heat. You don't need a stethoscope, you
could put your hear directly on the manifolds if you like.  
       God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

> > Make yourself a stethoscope and see if you can find it cold.
>
> Not sure I follow.  If by "cold" you mean with the engine not
> running...  there wouldn't be any sound anywhere in the system... so
> I'm not sure how I would find the leak with a stethoscope?
c - 18 Feb 2004 21:08 GMT
> What are the most common causes and remedies for engine backfire?
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> besides revving down (e.g., it happens regardless of whether the
> engine is hot or cold, what gas I'm running, etc.)

Could be:
Exhaust leak
Burnt or leaky exhaust valve
Retarded ignition timing and/or rich fuel mixture
Some engines also have a dashpot type device to prevent the throttle from
slamming shut when decelerating. This will also prevent this if the other
conditions don't exist.

Chris
Mike Romain - 18 Feb 2004 21:22 GMT
What engine and what Jeep?

Some GM engines have quirks....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

> What are the most common causes and remedies for engine backfire?
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> besides revving down (e.g., it happens regardless of whether the
> engine is hot or cold, what gas I'm running, etc.)
L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 18 Feb 2004 21:38 GMT
    OP said "injected chevy" I think you could bet the farm that it's a
stock 350".
       God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

> What engine and what Jeep?
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ezeppelin@msn.com - 19 Feb 2004 23:29 GMT
> OP said "injected chevy" I think you could bet the farm that it's a
> stock 350".

Correct....  and it is a CJ7 jeep,  but virtually none of the
mechanical or electronic components are the original AMC manufacture,
so don't read too much into that.  Basically a CJ7 body with all kinds
of Ford, Chevy, Dodge, and aftermarket parts underneath!   (no honda
parts as of yet...  ;-)
Mike Romain - 20 Feb 2004 00:03 GMT
> > OP said "injected chevy" I think you could bet the farm that it's a
> > stock 350".
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> of Ford, Chevy, Dodge, and aftermarket parts underneath!   (no honda
> parts as of yet...  ;-)

So I take it it is a 'built' 350 or is it a direct transplant?

Ok, anyway I have two thoughts....

One is it has been built and the intake manifold needs to be retorqued
down because it is leaking allowing a lean backfire.

This can be found by using a can of carb cleaner spray.  At idle spray
along the gasket seam especially at the 4 corners.  If you have a leak,
the idle will burp.  A cracked big vacuum line like the PCV or brake
booster line can cause it too, so spray the vacuum connections as well.

Second is the exhaust manifolds need to be retorqued down.  If they were
messed with and not just transplanted, then they likely need a second
torque like the intake.  These tend to just plain come loose.

Then a third is maybe the bolts at the exhaust flange has worked loose.

The exhaust leaks can be located by using a piece of tubing or even a
chunk of garden hose held to the ear.  If there is a leak you can hear
it through a piece of tube held close to it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
 
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