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Car Forum / Jeep / April 2004CB Radio or PRS
Hi All, I have just been offered a radio for my TJ by my DW as our anniversary present. She wants me to buy it in the next week. My question is should I go with a CB Radio or a PRS? I intend to mount it permanently and not get he handheld variety. Some of the trail areas around here have no cell phone coverage, so a two-way radio is very handy. I asked a retailer here and he said PRS would have no problems with an external mounted antennae. According to him, CBs need the roof to act a ground plain for the antennae to attain full gain. My idea was to mount the antennae either on the front or the rare bumper. I do have a hardtop, which I intend to keep as we are now moving towards winter. Thanks in advance for all the wonderful ideas and expertise. TW Definitely go with a CB since that is what is most commonly used on the trail between Jeepers, especially on organized trail runs. Most clubs and organized trail rides list a CB on the mandatory equipment list. Jerry -- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address N6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ > Hi All, I have just been offered a radio for my TJ by my DW as our > anniversary present. She wants me to buy it in the next week. My question [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Thanks in advance for all the wonderful ideas and expertise. > TW > Definitely go with a CB since that is what is most commonly used on the > trail between Jeepers, especially on organized trail runs. Most clubs and [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > See the Geezer Jeep at > http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ Thanks Jerry. Our club does not list CBs as mandatory equipment, but as "good to have". I rarely go alone out that far simply because I don't have a winch to get myself out of trouble. Till that time I will mostly go for club runs or with buddies. I am leaning towards a CB, but the FRS/PRS are so small in size comparatively that it would be easy to fit just about anywhere. Locally, both CBs and PRS are a max 5W power units and can be had with external antenna. TW TW Are you going to keep asking the same question over and over in a different way until somebody agrees with you and tells you to buy the prs system? Buy both. CBs can be bought at most garage sales for less than $20 and their range is superior to the other system. But if you want a handi-talky get it. ?? He only asked the question once, and in his follow up said "But I am still leaning towards a CB because of AM signal not requiring line of sight for attain maximum result."  SignatureDave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ > TW > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > than $20 and their range is superior to the other system. > But if you want a handi-talky get it. keep reading > ?? > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > than $20 and their range is superior to the other system. > > But if you want a handi-talky get it. I did. To which messages are you referring ? Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ > keep reading > > ?? [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > system. > > > But if you want a handi-talky get it. > > Definitely go with a CB since that is what is most commonly used on the > > trail between Jeepers, especially on organized trail runs. Most clubs > Thanks Jerry. Our club does not list CBs as mandatory equipment, but as > "good to have". I rarely go alone out that far simply because I don't have [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > anywhere. Locally, both CBs and PRS are a max 5W power units and can be > had with external antenna. Wow... here in the US, the FRS radio service is limited to 1/2 watt output. If you have 5 watt units in the same range, I'd bet they get some very good range, with excellent clarity. SignatureDavid Mize dmize@wowway.com Pickerington, Ohio > Hi All, I have just been offered a radio for my TJ by my DW as our > anniversary present. She wants me to buy it in the next week. My [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks in advance for all the wonderful ideas and expertise. > TW Of those two the CB would probably be better. Generally it will have more range that the PRS(FRS here in the US). Also, here at least, I don't think you can use an external antenna with an FRS radio. If you get a CB, get the best antenna you can. A cheap radio and a good antenna is a lot better than a great radio and a cheap antenna. What Jerry said about the CB for club runs in true. If, however, you are going to be out by yourself and want a radio to call help if needed I would suggest you consider getting a HAM license and go that route. With the HF radios especially you can talk a lot farther than you usually can with a CB. Just a thought. Remember though. Antenna. GOOD antenna. SignatureLessons of a Vietnam Helicopter Crewman 26. If something hasn't broken on your helicopter, it's about to. > Lessons of a Vietnam Helicopter Crewman > > 26. If something hasn't broken on your helicopter, it's about to. Heh, remember the "Jesus nut" on your RVN-era Huey? ;) Jerry -- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address N6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ > Of those two the CB would probably be better. Generally it will have more > range that the PRS(FRS here in the US). I get about the same reliable range from my FRS as my CB. The FRS is UHF/FM and therefore line of sight, where the HF/AM CB should tend to wrap the terrain a little better. I have/use both. I find the FRS to be much more of a pleasant communication device to use. Also, here at least, I don't think > you can use an external antenna with an FRS radio. My FRS rigs have mag mount external antennas which help in getting the signal out. You CAN use an external antenna, it just has to be factory attached and non-removeable so you can't boost your signal by futzing with the antenna gain. Why this band is so restricted, antenna-wise, with such a low wattage is beyond me. If you get a CB, get the > best antenna you can. A cheap radio and a good antenna is a lot better than > a great radio and a cheap antenna. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > radios especially you can talk a lot farther than you usually can with a > CB. Just a thought. While true, it's going to be hard to convince your contact in Japan to come and pull out your rig. :) > Remember though. Antenna. GOOD antenna. Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ > I get about the same reliable range from my FRS as my CB. The FRS is > UHF/FM and therefore line of sight, where the HF/AM CB should tend to > wrap the terrain a little better. I have/use both. I find the FRS to be > much more of a pleasant communication device to use. Thats what the guy said, PRS/FRSs are clearer because they are UHF. Also the units are smaller in physical size. But I am still leaning towards a CB because of AM signal not requiring line of sight for attain maximum result. > My FRS rigs have mag mount external antennas which help in getting the > signal out. You CAN use an external antenna, it just has to be factory > attached and non-removeable so you can't boost your signal by futzing > with the antenna gain. Why this band is so restricted, antenna-wise, > with such a low wattage is beyond me. In NZ, PRS/FRSs can be had with external antennas which can be mounted anywhere on the rig. There is no restriction as such. TW > Of those two the CB would probably be better. Generally it will have more > range that the PRS(FRS here in the US). Also, here at least, I don't think [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Remember though. Antenna. GOOD antenna. HAM license..... Thats a touchy subject for me. I have been reading up on it and it looks very interesting. However, I don't know how practical it would be to install it in the TJ. I might get a unit and put it in the basement for personal enjoyment. We can get external antenna with FRS/PRSs in NZ. One of the local suppliers is importing units from Australia (www.gme.com.au) and Uniden. I like Uniden's X150 Pro at this stage. I was worried about lack of metal roof and what it would do to the reception for a CB. On a TJ, am I better off installing the antenna in the front (thus all metal hood in close proximity) or in the back? Thanks TW > I was worried about lack of metal >roof and what it would do to the reception for a CB. On a TJ, am I better >off installing the antenna in the front (thus all metal hood in close >proximity) or in the back? I'm running a CB(Radio Shack's cheapest, thank you<g>) with a K-40 "trunk lip" style mount base load antenna. It's in a YJ, and the antenna is mounted to an extra piece of metal strap that has been added to the spare tire travel stop on the right rear of the tub. I use the radio to listen/talk to truckers on my 90 minute commute every day. I find the *useable* range with this setup to be around 4 miles. I can hear further than that, but it won't make the trip back unless the atmosphere is pretty quiet. I've got a pair of handheld FRS radios in the console for use out in the woods went we're looking for Geocache's, and a cell phone too. Wonder what they ever did before the age of electronics! Oh, yeah, I always carry matches in my emergency kit... I guess I could use smoke signals, too, if I had to. -- Old Crow '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl' '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1 TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51 > I'm running a CB(Radio Shack's cheapest, thank you<g>) with a K-40 > "trunk lip" style mount base load antenna. > It's in a YJ, and the antenna is mounted to an extra piece of metal > strap that has been added to the spare tire travel stop on the right > rear of the tub. Interesting idea. I have seen some drivers of other makes having the antenna mounted on a lip coming off the spare tyre, but from the back (the space between the rare glass and the spare tyre mount). However, they usually have metal roofs. I don't, as such I have no idea about its effectiveness for signal strength. > I use the radio to listen/talk to truckers on my 90 minute commute > every day. I find the *useable* range with this setup to be around 4 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > could use smoke signals, too, if I had to. > -- What about smoke flares or an emergency beacon? Just kidding, matches or a safety lighter is a good idea, because if stranded overnight then you can keep yourself warm by lighting a small fire. I think I'll go out and buy one tomorrow. I've got a lot of things in my tool kit that I now carry, but nothing to start a fire. TW >> I'm running a CB(Radio Shack's cheapest, thank you<g>) with a K-40 >> "trunk lip" style mount base load antenna. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > usually have metal roofs. I don't, as such I have no idea about its > effectiveness for signal strength. The better your counterpoise(ground plane), the better your antenna will work. Usually. Having the antenna on the very front OR back tends to make it more directional. Best place is dead center of a metal roof. If you have a rag-top or fiberglass think about mounting it in the center of the hood. Looks a little funny but usually work great. You can go with a magnetic mount if you don't want it there all the time. I don't like a handheld for general use. But, you can take those out of the jeep and climb to the top of a nearby hill if you need to. Signature"Being a role model is the most powerful form of educating. Youngsters need good role models more than they need critics. It is one of a parent's greatest responsibilities and opportunities. Too often fathers neglect it because they get so caught up in making living they forget to make a life." --John Wooden, former UCLA Basketball Coach > The better your counterpoise(ground plane), the better your antenna will > work. Usually. Having the antenna on the very front OR back tends to make [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I don't like a handheld for general use. But, you can take those out of the > jeep and climb to the top of a nearby hill if you need to. I haven't really seen anyone here run their rig with an antenna mounted in the centre of the hood. But it is an option with a magnetic mount. Would moving the permanent antenna in the middle of the front bumper improve directional tendencies. I have mostly seen people with antenna in a corner around here. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I never realised how much of a learning experience it would be when I started off-roading (I have had to refresh my physics so much, though physics wasn't so much fun in high school). TW >> The better your counterpoise(ground plane), the better your antenna will >> work. Usually. Having the antenna on the very front OR back tends to make [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > directional tendencies. I have mostly seen people with antenna in a > corner around here. I used to run mine mounted to the rear corner when I ran just a CB. Since going to HAM I have learned a tremendous amout about antennas. The difference between the middle of the bumper or a corner will probably be very slight. Your signal will generally radiate the direction of your counterpoise. That's why the center of the vehicle works best. It gives you the most omni-directional pattern. What some people with fiberglass tops do is to mount a 2 foot by 2 foot or 3 foot by 3 foot piece of aluminum plate to the inside of the roof. Mount the antenna thru that and the roof. Thereby giving them a metal ground plane in their fiberglass roof. If done neatly it doesn't look bad at all. Especially if you paint it to match the top. You might also read some of the posts on www.eham.net/forums/. They have some good info. Especially on the "mobileham" forum. Good luck, SignatureI'm just preparing my impromptu remarks. - Winston Churchill Why not just mount the plate to the OUTSIDE of the roof, as in the floor of a roof rack? > I used to run mine mounted to the rear corner when I ran just a CB. Since > going to HAM I have learned a tremendous amout about antennas. The [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Good luck, Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ Geez! Don't you take your top off to go four wheelin'? God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Why not just mount the plate to the OUTSIDE of the roof, as in the floor > of a roof rack? Well, if I had a counterpoise plate on the underside of the hardtop with the antenna poking thru, I guess I'd have to pretty much ditch the radio setup to go topless....doncha think? My question was regarding his installation of a counterpoise plate, Bill. Now, since you brought it up, you could put a counterpoise plate inside a Garvin tilting rack and go topless and still have a ground plane. If you had enough RF going, you could still get a burned scalp. L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote: > Geez! Don't you take your top off to go four wheelin'? > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > >>Why not just mount the plate to the OUTSIDE of the roof, as in the floor >>of a roof rack? Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ If I take my top off, the XJ will cave in. KH > Geez! Don't you take your top off to go four wheelin'? > God Bless America, ?ill O|||||||O > mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > > > Why not just mount the plate to the OUTSIDE of the roof, as in the floor > > of a roof rack? Depends on how muddy it is :-) Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ > Geez! Don't you take your top off to go four wheelin'? > God Bless America, ?ill O|||||||O > mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > > > Why not just mount the plate to the OUTSIDE of the roof, as in the floor > > of a roof rack? http://www.billhughes.com/carlane.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com > Depends on how muddy it is :-) > > Dave Milne, Scotland > '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ > Why not just mount the plate to the OUTSIDE of the roof, as in the floor > of a roof rack? Don't see why you couldn't... SignatureYou assist an evil system most effectively by obeying its orders and decrees. I went out and bought an AM CB radio (Uniden Pro 510XL). Now the weekend will be spent installing it. I was thinking how would it look if I could somehow install the CB antenna on the exact opposite side of the radio antenna (same height and spot). My radio antenna is on the right side of the TJ, CB antenna on the left side would ensure coax is shortest and the antenna would be somewhat in the middle of the truck (though to one side). Any ideas or photos of such an install? Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Unless you 'really' know what you are doing, you cannot make the coax shorter. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > I went out and bought an AM CB radio (Uniden Pro 510XL). Now the weekend > will be spent installing it. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Mike, I don't mean to be an a.s but I've gotta disagree with you on the coax length thing :) That's a very common misconception but it just ain't so, unless you're running a really non-standard antenna the coax length doesn't make any major difference. In theory, shorter is better but for the difference in length thats possible in a vehicle I don't think the ol' mk.1 "ear" test will notice any difference. The only concern I'd have with shortening the coax run would be getting the connector properly installed, may take a try or two for a first timer but not out of the question. -Howard. >Unless you 'really' know what you are doing, you cannot make the coax >shorter. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >> >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. I think Mike was just alluding the Poster's ability to solder in a PL-238, rather the fraction of a wave length. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Mike, I don't mean to be an a.s but I've gotta disagree with you on > the coax length thing :) That's a very common misconception but it [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > -Howard. PL-238??? I think you mean PL-259.... Signature-- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address N6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ > I think Mike was just alluding the Poster's ability to solder in a > PL-238, rather the fraction of a wave length. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > > > -Howard. Yes. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > PL-238??? I think you mean PL-259.... Exactly... the 18' coax length recommendation for CB radios is an old-wive's tale... a complete myth. Jerry -- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address N6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ > Mike, I don't mean to be an a.s but I've gotta disagree with you on > the coax length thing :) That's a very common misconception but it [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > >> > >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Ya???? Ok, but I was the system op for a mobile fleet of 150 vehicles and man oh man I could sure tell when someone had been messing with a cable. We were transmitting data over the system and with a messed up coax the retries went up exponentially. We needed an 18' or a 12' or a 6' cable to have good clean reception. If someone chopped 2' off in a door, I would need to fix it by cutting 4' more off. Now for that 'ear' test, well I guess a crackle won't hurt sound like it does data. And I guess having a 3' coax cable wouldn't mess up the SWR at all either eh? Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Exactly... the 18' coax length recommendation for CB radios is an old-wive's > tale... a complete myth. [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > > >> > > >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Here's one nice writeup on the 18' cable myth you may enjoy reading Mike... http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/myth-1.htm Jerry -- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address N6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ > Ya???? > [quoted text clipped - 65 lines] > > > >> > > > >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. That is one person's opinion Jerry and I don't know that person from a hole in the ground. Though I did notice the reception seemed better at 12' than 18' and that having a cable 'not' in one of those multiples really messes up data packets. Transmitter makers like Ericsson also call for the 12' or 18' lines and warn not to coil them which can 'short' the RF out. I haven't played with enough voice systems to try and set the SWR with unmatched cables. Have you? Mike > Here's one nice writeup on the 18' cable myth you may enjoy reading Mike... > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/myth-1.htm [quoted text clipped - 81 lines] > > > > >> > > > > >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Just read it carefully Mike and perhaps you'll see the electronic theory behind what he writes. I have an electrical engineering background and what he says is right on the money. I personally know him very well too and he has a solid background in this "stuff". Plus we are both heavily into ham radio and this 18' myth was shot down in ham radio antenna circles many years ago. Jerry -- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address N6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ > That is one person's opinion Jerry and I don't know that person from a > hole in the ground. [quoted text clipped - 94 lines] > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Are you sending data over CB, or are you saying that 18' cables is magic for all cable runs, no matter what frequency band? alan > That is one person's opinion Jerry and I don't know that person from a > hole in the ground. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > packets. Transmitter makers like Ericsson also call for the 12' or 18' > lines and warn not to coil them which can 'short' the RF out. I got confused a while ago and have no idea what is 'right' for what... Mike > Are you sending data over CB, or are you saying that 18' cables is magic for all > cable runs, no matter what frequency band? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > packets. Transmitter makers like Ericsson also call for the 12' or 18' > > lines and warn not to coil them which can 'short' the RF out. I believe the CB antenna will be detuned if yo locate it near the AM/FM radio antenna. Best to locate as far as possible from it. >I went out and bought an AM CB radio (Uniden Pro 510XL). Now the weekend >will be spent installing it. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. > I believe the CB antenna will be detuned if yo locate it near the > AM/FM radio antenna. Best to locate as far as possible from it. I was thinking about putting it on the opposite side, not next to the radio antenna. I am seeing a friend tomorrow who knows more about installing antennas then I do. TW The rule of thumb is to be 3 ft. from any other antennas. Shortening your coax run in your TJ is not going to help your transmit range. Just make sure you don't leave a coil of coax somewhere. > I went out and bought an AM CB radio (Uniden Pro 510XL). Now the weekend > will be spent installing it. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ TW, another old wive's tale about the coiled coax thing. If everything is working the way it should all the signal travels through the coax between the center conductor & the inside of the braid, not along the outside where coiling it would have any effect. Coiling it, tying it up or crocheting it for that matter will not make any differencet :). There are actually some situations where coiling it up would make a system work better, but you won't run into them in a jeep using a commercially available antenna. Howard. >The rule of thumb is to be 3 ft. from any other antennas. Shortening >your coax run in your TJ is not going to help your transmit range. Just [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >> >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Probably not, but how many antenna coax coils do you have in your vehicles? It certainly doesn't take much effort to leave it uncoiled. > TW, another old wive's tale about the coiled coax thing. If > everything is working the way it should all the signal travels through [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >>> >>>Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ Strange things happen when we coil wire, like magnetizing a screwdriver for one. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Probably not, but how many antenna coax coils do you have in your > vehicles? It certainly doesn't take much effort to leave it uncoiled. >> Probably not, but how many antenna coax coils do you have in your >> vehicles? It certainly doesn't take much effort to leave it uncoiled. >L.W.(ßill) Hughes III <billhughes@cox.net> wrote: > Strange things happen when we coil wire, like magnetizing a >screwdriver for one. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O I'd think you'd need a *big* amp to push enough watts to magnetize a screwdriver with the CB coax. Say, 4 or 500 watts maybe? Then you'd probably start to melt the soft top every time you keyed up the mic. I know for a fact that pushing 100 watts through a co-phased setup will light a 4' fluorescent tube held between the antennas<g>. -- Old Crow '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl' '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1 TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51 I guess it depends on the individual situation, in some cases coiling it up may make sense, in some cases it may be easier to leave it uncoiled. Personally I usually cut it to length. On my last install (magnatopper) I had about 1' extra so I just rotated the antenna around to coil the extra length around the base. Makes no difference one way or the other. Howard. >Probably not, but how many antenna coax coils do you have in your >vehicles? It certainly doesn't take much effort to leave it uncoiled. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >>>> >>>>Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. You are mistaken. The coil can act as a pickup for noise and it can put out RF. You should really read the TSB out on how to install a transmitter into a new modern vehicle or you will void your vehicle warranty. The antenna cable can and will interfere with the vehicle's onboard electronics. It 'Will' cut out anti-lock brakes. It 'will' cut out a Jeep automatic tranny module so every time you key up you go into neutral. It also will interfere with the fuel injectors. GM, Chrysler and all the rest have booklets out now on how to properly wire a transmitter in order to avoid voiding the vehicle warranty. GM insists on minimum 10 ga. power and ground run right to the battery and double fused there on the opposite side of the vehicle from the wiring harness. The antenna must run on the opposite side from the harness too. So for the power lines, to have a CB on the center or passenger side of a GM van, the wires have to run up the passenger side fender to the front of the vehicle, across the front of the radiator supports and back to the battery. If you run them across the firewall, you void the warranty for the vehicle's electronics, all of them. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > TW, another old wive's tale about the coiled coax thing. If > everything is working the way it should all the signal travels through [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > >> > >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Mike, I hope I didn't come across the wrong way on this, I have no desire to start a flame war over this. You have, IMHO, a well deserved reputation on this group for knowing your stuff, but I still think you're wrong. My position on this comes from being an electronics technician working in the radio field for somewheres on the upper side of 30 years. An awful lot of that time has been spent testing & troubleshooting antenna & transmission lines on everything from microwave relay links to CBs, with a bunch of cell tower & military stuff in between. I think by now I'm pretty well grounded in both the theory & the practice. As far as CBs are concerned, if your antenna is properly designed & installed then the length of the coax line & whether or not the coax is coiled up is immaterial to the operation of the system. If there's a problem with the installation then you may well have problems with the coax radiating the reflected power that was supposed to go out the antenna. You may also experience the signal trying to get to ground through you power cabling instead of the coax shield. In this case you may well have interferance problems inside the vehicle & changing the length of the coax may affect your SWR meter's reading, but changing the length to make the meter read "right" is really only covering up the problem. The best way to check the SWR is with the meter inserted into the line right at the antenna, unfortunately the way most antennas are built makes this difficult. To get the real picture of whats happening from the radio end of the line requires an antenna line analyzer ($$$- google "Anritsu Sitemaster" for one model, did I mention "$$$"?). I saw what you said about the problems you were having with your fleet vehicles & the data systems, I've seen it too. When the digital "TDMA" vehicle mount cell phones came out, we really had to crack down on the installers to get the VSWR down as far as possible, otherwise the bit error rate went crazy. We also made them trim the coax to "just long enough" in order to eliminate the loss from the extra length, which admittedly is a lot worse @ 850 Mhz than 27 ;>. If your SWR is high & you can't do anything about the antenna then you can reduce to problems inside the vehicle by (gasp) looping the coax a few times at the antenna to form an rf choke, this prevents the reflected signal from travelling back down the outside of the coax. Another trick that works is to get one of those ferrite sleeves that you see showing up on power & telephone cables these days. Stick it over the coax at the base of the antenna & it'll do the same thing as the loops. Running the power leads through one of these things wouldn't hurt either. Tell ya what- next time you're in Halifax drop me a note, I'll get some test equipment togeather & I'll try to show to prove to you in person what I'm saying is right. If I'm wrong I'll buy you a 24, If I'm right you do the buying, How's that? -Howard. p.s.- I drink Keith's :). >You are mistaken. > [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] >> >> >> >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. I concur! What you describe is absolutely correct by my experience. The real trick is to get the antenna to match the xmtrs' rated load Typically 50 ohms unbalanced. > Mike, I hope I didn't come across the wrong way on this, I have no > desire to start a flame war over this. You have, IMHO, a well [quoted text clipped - 109 lines] >>>>> >>>>>Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. Yeah, thats the problem for sure. To work properly the ground plane, i.e. Jeep, should extend 1/4 wavelength away from the antenna base in all directions. That would be one whacking big Jeep :>. Even at that you need a matching system (loading coil) to bring the impedance to 50 ohms, which will compromise the bandwidth & burn off some of the signal with resitive losses. There just ain't no free lunch :(. I've got a Lil'Wil stuck to the top of my Durango, tuned to something that isn't too indecent-, ~1.3-1@ ch. 20. Just opening one door drives it up over 2:1. It's a small miracle that the things work at all :). Howard. >I concur! >What you describe is absolutely correct by my experience. >The real trick is to get the antenna to match the xmtrs' rated load >Typically 50 ohms unbalanced. *Snip* From what I understand CB was the FCCs' biggest mistake Allocating the band for short range mobile communications while it's very good at skip almost makes it useless for intended purposes. The skip we pick up here in the north from the people in the south with the BIG boots makes it hard to hear buddy a couple miles away. Audioooooo Audioooooo.... sheesh Unfortunatly it was so, because of the technology of the time. FRS is much better suited for short range comms. To bad they don't make a radio with at least a decent speaker. > Yeah, thats the problem for sure. To work properly the ground plane, > i.e. Jeep, should extend 1/4 wavelength away from the antenna base in [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > *Snip* The ones I have DO have a decent speaker, external antenna, among other things. Check em out: <http://www.popularwireless.com/gmrsradioshack211850.html> > From what I understand CB was the FCCs' biggest mistake > Allocating the band for short range mobile communications [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > FRS is much better suited for short range comms. To bad > they don't make a radio with at least a decent speaker. Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ Well, never could turn down a Keith's! Even if I do end up buying. ;-) I can see what you are saying, if done right no issues. I guess I just see a lot of crappie installs that 'do' interfere with onboard systems and am used to the 900 mhz stuff. I also have a big ball of antenna cable stuck in-between the fiberglass body layers I wouldn't mind getting rid of. Mike > Mike, I hope I didn't come across the wrong way on this, I have no > desire to start a flame war over this. You have, IMHO, a well [quoted text clipped - 109 lines] > >> >> > >> >> Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. > TW, another old wive's tale about the coiled coax thing. If > everything is working the way it should all the signal travels through [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Howard. I was just reading the FAQ on www.firestick.com and they suggest to put it in a rope like bind and not a small ball sort of thing. I am learning lots of stuff from this thread. Man, what have I started. Thanks for your advice, its much appreciated. TW Well, I personally went the bumper route (against the recommendations of the CB community in general, who claim the bumper is one of the worst, reception-wise, places to install a CB antenna). However, my friend put his antenna in the exact place you are talking about on his Rubicon. I can't remember where he got the mount; he got the mount and antenna and everything from the same online store. He likes it there alot. Here is a picture of his jeep on the trail; you can see the antenna ok... http://www.traildamage.com/trails/chinamans_gulch/030927/aaron_in_the_boulders_p art_3.jpg /Bob > I went out and bought an AM CB radio (Uniden Pro 510XL). Now the weekend > will be spent installing it. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. >I went out and bought an AM CB radio (Uniden Pro 510XL). Now the weekend >will be spent installing it. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Thanks for all the help guys. Its much appreciated. In my opinion, you would do well to keep the CB antenna away from the engine, as that is generally a noisy RF environment. Ignition impulse noise, computer hash, electric motors, fuel pump noise, and on and on can really put a dent in your radio's usefulness. On my elderly CJ5's I mounted 102 inch whips on the driver's side rear end of the body, mostly to help keep from clanging into overhanging tree limbs on country roads. On my XJ I mounted an L bracket NMO mount at the left rear hatch point, on the side that was away from the exhaust system (driver's side). Make sure you establish a solid mechanical and RF ground at the feedpoint of the antenna. This helps keep the coax from picking up noise and inducing it into the antenna, as well as establishing a counterpoise for the antenna. Power the radio by running twisted pair back to the positive + terminal of the battery, and then to the body groundpoint where the negative - terminal of the battery is connected. Fuse both of these at the battery end! Ground the chassis of the radio at the mounting point as well. Hopefully you will not run into the classic RF noise issues that many have experienced! As someone else suggested, a great place to get mobile radio information is at: http://www.eham.net/forums/MobileHam It's great fun to use the radio to rank on your buddies as you roll past them in the mud. Rob wb1aex "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Edmund Burke Good advice, I once use the stock AM FM antenna area for my combination CB antenna (as my stock '78 Bronco uses). Sold the '84 Thunderbird before I figured out every time I transmitted I threw it's computer into the safe mode. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > In my opinion, you would do well to keep the CB antenna away from the > engine, as that is generally a noisy RF environment. Ignition impulse [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Edmund Burke > In my opinion, you would do well to keep the CB antenna away from the > engine, as that is generally a noisy RF environment. Ignition impulse [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > It's great fun to use the radio to rank on your buddies as you roll > past them in the mud. Thanks for the advice. I had been away for a couple of days, but it seems like I have a lot of responses to read now. Great stuff. I have steering on the right side (I am in New Zealand). How would mounting it on the spare tyre carrier work? That would give a good height and keep it away from almost all electronics (the nearest being the fuel pump in the gas tank). TW TW, First, let me say that is exactly what I've done. My SWR isn't ideal, but it's "good enough", and not so high that I'm worried I'll damage my CB transmitter. However, according to most sources I researched when getting my CB, the bumper is among the worst places to mount an antenna for optimal performance. The only reason so many mount theirs there is that it is an easy place to mount it, and looks aesthetically pleasing. The reason it is said to be a bad place is that bumper does not provide a proper "Ground Plane". I don't know much about how such things work, but apparently mounting the antenna to the body (such as on the rear corner panel), or in the front where you were initially thinking of mounting it, will provide a much better, larger ground plane for the antenna, and supposedly greatly increase its effective power and range, and reduce its SWR. That's about the extent of what I know, based on the various information I read about. So, my advice: Mount it in the front if you like it there. That works great for my friend's rubicon. Mount it on the spare tire carrier if you want. Works great for me so far. But if you want the supposed "ideal" mount, mount it to the body in the rear corner panel area, for optimal ground plane. The biggest thing (IMO) is to get an antenna that IS easily adjustable, so you can fix the SWR regardless of where you mount it. Good luck, Bob > Thanks for the advice. I had been away for a couple of days, but it seems > like I have a lot of responses to read now. Great stuff. I have steering [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > TW I have an Argo 6X6 ATV and it's body is made of a poly... type of plastic. Obviously not much of a ground plane I did find a "no gnd plane" antenna for it. Not a antenna for a boat (Boat types are designed with the water in mind) And it's worked really well, swr was really low. Unfortuneatly I can't recall who made it. Maybe it'll perform as good, on the rear of a Jeep. > TW, > [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] >> >>TW > I have an Argo 6X6 ATV and it's body is made of > a poly... type of plastic. Obviously not much of a ground plane > I did find a "no gnd plane" antenna for it. Not a antenna for a > boat (Boat types are designed with the water in mind) > And it's worked really well, swr was really low. Unfortuneatly I can't > recall who made it. Maybe it'll perform as good, on the rear of a Jeep. I have just now opened the box and am going to install it now. Lets see how it goes. The antenna is tuneable, so if there are any problems I can try to tune it or have it tuned professionally. I don't think just tuning will cost that much (paying for installation would be expensive and I would not learn anything!). Thanks guys. TW > TW, > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Good luck, > Bob I am off to install it now, its a sunny autumn day with no rain clouds in sight. I'll update later, but I am now inclined towards putting it on the spare tyre carrier. Thanks guys for all your input. TW Hi guys, There's another reason that the bumper's not an ideal place for an antenna. The antenna's running up, in close proximity to a parallel sheet of metal. That affects the radiation characteristics of the antenna very badly and it's mounted about as low as you could possibly get it. Although better, mounting a vertical antenna on a vertical sheet of metal isn't the ideal either. The ideal mounting for a vertical antenna's always two-fold. First, the higher the better. Second, on the largest horizontal ground plane. This means that you'd like to put it squarely in the center of a metal roof. There's many issues to consider with a Jeep like beating up the antenna on low-hanging limbs and the lack of a sheet metal roof. If you have a roof rack, you could mount it there and it'd probably be best so long as you have a good electrical ground back to the body. You could also mount it in the center of a piece of sheet metal up there which would be even better. If you just have a fiberglass top, you could bond a piece of sheet metal on top of or underneath the roof and put the antenna up there. Otherwise, the easiest and most efficient, albeit ugliest, position is in the center of the hood; with a magnetic mount perhaps. The other thing I heard mentioned was that the transmission line (coax) needed to be "X" long and coiled up. I've always wondered why CB'ers insist on the fixed length coax, coiled up. It's an impedance thing that deals with wavelengths and I won't go into the technical details or basic rules of thumb. Take a look at the following site for a little more info. http://www.1stopelectronics.com/cb-antenna-101.htm http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/BigBear.htm Signatureo_o_o_o Best Regards, /| ,[_____], Jim, WP3JQ |???L --O|||||||O- ()_)?()_) ????? )_) EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W > TW, > [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > > > TW Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes! As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount, just waiting for it to arrive in the mail. TW > Hi guys, > There's another reason that the bumper's not an ideal place for an [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > ()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running the power lead directly to the battery? > Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the > damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > TW Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor. I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away with the filter I am fixing tomorrow. I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall). My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside the cab. I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing. TW > I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source > (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less > noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running > the power lead directly to the battery? :) My first thought is that you routed your power leads past some offensive piece of electronics. One way to test it would be to drape your power lead from the back of the radio, out the door, onto the garage floor and around front to the battery, away from all Jeep electronics. If you still have interference, I'd be surprised. That way you can determine if it is just a cable routing issue, or not. Do the same with the anntenna coax. Keep us posted. Sorry for being so late in the game, here. > Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much > noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >>noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running >>the power lead directly to the battery? Signature___________________________________________________________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________ That really is a strange power lead connection isn't it? I guess as long as the whole circuit is rated for the load and it works, it's okay. It just kinda flies in the face of the "best connection is the shortest path straight to the battery". But, if it works, it's good. o_o_o_o Best Regards, /| ,[_____], Jim, WP3JQ |???L --O|||||||O- ()_)?()_) ????? )_) EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W > :) My first thought is that you routed your power leads past some > offensive piece of electronics. One way to test it would be to drape [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > >>noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running > >>the power lead directly to the battery? Well it did work straight to the battery as long as the engine was not working. Turn the key and I could hear the fuel pump, relays and then the rest of it all just turned to custard. I think all Jeeps have a personality chip installed in them and thats why they all act so differently from each other. I like you signature, TW > That really is a strange power lead connection isn't it? I guess as long as > the whole circuit is rated for the load and it works, it's okay. It just [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > ()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_) > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W I had gone through a hole in the firewall towards the steering column and tried to completely avoid all electronics. Then I actually did exactly the same as you say and went out from the right side door (driver side) around the front and then onto the battery from top (and bottom) of the left fender to get to battery, the problem remained. I know it sounds really weird and I do appreciate your input, it just did not work any other way. I have done searching on the internet and some other TJ owners have had similar problems with taking the power directly to the battery. It is working now, so I'll stop playing with it. Thanks for taking the time to reply, TW > :) My first thought is that you routed your power leads past some > offensive piece of electronics. One way to test it would be to drape [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > same with the anntenna coax. Keep us posted. Sorry for being so late in > the game, here. > I've got a pair of handheld FRS radios in the console for use out in > the woods went we're looking for Geocache's, and a cell phone too. > Wonder what they ever did before the age of electronics! All right, geocaching!!! I just mounted a new handheld Garmin GPS in my TJ on Wednesday and am getting ready to try geocaching. Having fun with it? To keep the thread on topic, my wife and I both got cheap Uniden hand-held CBs and they seem to have a few miles' range without an external antenna on the Jeep tub...they were like $18 each at Wal-Mart a few years back. Perfect for Jeep club rides, then instantly stowable out of sight when you're back in town. Also, they use the lighter socket for power and require zero wiring. Matt >> I've got a pair of handheld FRS radios in the console for use out in >> the woods went we're looking for Geocache's, and a cell phone too. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >Matt Having a great time! We moved out to Arkansas from SoCal about 11 years ago, and it the 6 months we've been geocaching, we've found a bunch of beautiful spots we wouldn't have seen otherwise. Found this one yesterday: http://tinyurl.com/23bru I used another cacher's log page as he had a camera and took a pic. We got out there and discovered that my camera had dead batteries in it. My son has a Garmin GPS, the one with the FRS radio built in. It works real good, but the radio really eats the batteries in a hurry. I've got an old Magellan that came off of Ebay, and it works real good, too, but doesn't have the mapping feature which I think would be a help sometimes. A real good map book of the area that you plan on geocaching in is a good thing to have, also. -- Old Crow '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl' '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1 TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51 TW; I have the one shown in the URL http://www.teraflx.com/index2.htm It works fine with a Cobra 75WXST CB radio (out-of-sight-out-of-mind for thieves) and a Cobra A300 3ft fiberglass whip. I also have a full length stainless steel whip I install when going into a remote area. I'm told the rear mounting location uses the top lip of the steel tub for the ground plane for broadcast efficiency. I get a SWR of from 1.0 to 1.2 with the SS whip and around 1.4 with the 3ft one. Bob > > Of those two the CB would probably be better. Generally it will have more > > range that the PRS(FRS here in the US). Also, here at least, I don't [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Thanks > TW TW; Sorry about that, the URL just gets you to the opening page. Go to Catalog, then scroll down to Miscellaneous Accessories. There you will find the CB antenna mounts. Bob > TW; > I have the one shown in the URL http://www.teraflx.com/index2.htm It [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > > Thanks > > TW > TW; > Sorry about that, the URL just gets you to the opening page. Go to [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > > > Bob Thanks Bob. We don't get Cobra units in New Zealand. The two most common units here are GME from Australia (www.gme.net.au) and the good old Uniden (www.uniden.co.nz). All the discussion here have convinced me go with a CB radio. Uniden is heavily discounting their Pro 150XL as it is being discontinued as a product. I will go out later in the day and see what is in the market. Thanks all for your great input and suggestions. TW Just do both...they aren't that expensive. I always carry two FRS handhelds, and it always seems I hand one out to someone, or I am the only guy with both and can relay on both frequencies. Though I never actually was, I am a boy scout like that. Holla! Signature-- Joe Pribe NC jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com <you know the drill jegp 'at' hotmail.com < at is really @ ---- I Love My O|||||||O TJ | > TW; | > Sorry about that, the URL just gets you to the opening page. Go to [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] | Thanks all for your great input and suggestions. | TW Get the CB and a decent permanent mount antenna for the gift. It iwll make you much more compatible on trail runs. Then, go out and pick up a pair of FRS handheld radios too! No big deal, decent ones go on sale all the time! I picked up a pair of audiovox handhelds with a drop in charger for $49 two years ago and they work great. Car to car over rough terrain on the trails they are reliable out to about 1/2 mile. On the highway, 1 mile is not unusual. In my vehicle I have a 25 watt 220 mhz ham rig permanently mounted which easily gets me into repeaters 40 + miles away, and I carry one of those 4 watt CB handhelds that can be plugged into the 12 volt accessory socket for close in chat with non hams, and a pair of FRS radios for convenience when hiking or whatever. Remember, it is only money, and toys are more important than money! Rob wb1aex "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Edmund Burke What about a cell phone for all the people who don't have two-way radios!! Just kidding, in the long run I do plan on getting into hamming, but one hobby at a time at this stage. Cheers TW > Get the CB and a decent permanent mount antenna for the gift. It iwll > make you much more compatible on trail runs. Then, go out and pick up [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Edmund Burke I suggest the CB. In my humble opinion, the FRS is a great temporary solution, but a very poor permanant solution. The FRS is useful if you are driving your Jeep, and you wife is driving the motorhome or camper, and you want to have communications between you on the trip down the highway. FRS is a workable solution if you want to go wheeling with a buddy that is radio challenged, and you don't wheel with him on any sort of regular basis. But, as a primary means of communication while wheeling, the FRS just is not very serviceable. The problem is, 1, it must remain on all of the time, and by the end of the day the batteries are pretty much toast and need to be replaced or recharged, 2. the range is severely limited by terrain that you will encounter on the trail but not on the road (trails are frequently closed-in spaces while the highway is mostly open space for the operable range of the FRS radio) > Hi All, I have just been offered a radio for my TJ by my DW as our > anniversary present. She wants me to buy it in the next week. My question [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Thanks in advance for all the wonderful ideas and expertise. > TW Thanks, I am now going down CB path. Need to go out later in the day to narrow down my model options. Interestingly, in New Zealand we can get PRS/FRS unit which are much like CB radios and permanently fitted to rigs with external permanent antenna. But I will stick to a CB radio permanently mounted (no need to worry about forgetting to charge or leaving at home). Thanks TW > I suggest the CB. In my humble opinion, the FRS is a great temporary > solution, but a very poor permanant solution. The FRS is useful if you are [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > closed-in spaces while the highway is mostly open space for the operable > range of the FRS radio) Your range point is very important. Remember that FRS is low-powered UHF. It has pretty much the range of a baby-call (and many other things in common with baby-calls too...) UHF is strictly line-of-sight for dependability. CB is fairly low power, but is REAL shortwave. It will travel and reflect like real shortwave, too. Although it requires long antennas and good grounding to work properly, you can't really compare it to FRS in any aspect. Now, here's my preferred radio: http://www.yaesu.co.uk/amateur/hf/ft857/ft857.htm 73, de LA1PCA -Kris http://eternalbank.com/jeeps.htm > I suggest the CB. In my humble opinion, the FRS is a great temporary > solution, but a very poor permanant solution. The FRS is useful if you [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > closed-in spaces while the highway is mostly open space for the > operable range of the FRS radio) Linear amplifier: http://wholesalecbradio.com/TEXASSTARAMPS1.htm God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Your range point is very important. Remember that FRS is low-powered UHF. > It has pretty much the range of a baby-call (and many other things in [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > http://eternalbank.com/jeeps.htm |
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