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Car Forum / Jeep / April 2004TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this shows up in another thread. I am replacing the thermostat/radiator in my 2000 TJ. I would like to flush the block to avoid getting any crud in the new rad. Any reason why I should not backflush from the thermostat housing (minus thermostat), draining from the lower rad hose, wtih the engine off? Would a strail flush, engine running, from the lower rad be better? I have well water, and I would rather not use that to flush...that's why I want to backflush using distilled. TIA -- Matt Macchiarolo mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net You really should be opening the drain on the block to flush it. The drain is on the back side under the exhaust. I think I would pull the bottom hose and the drain and flush it with the well water to get the crud out, then finish up with distilled water. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this shows > up in another thread. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Matt Macchiarolo > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net Hi Matt, With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the last couple of years. Make a full drain by removing the block plug, and you'll be able see any sediment, indicating a need to flush. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this shows > up in another thread. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Matt Macchiarolo > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-) There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be? Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain? I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it. The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK. > Hi Matt, > With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Matt Macchiarolo > > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net Matt Macchiarolo did pass the time by typing: > Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-) > > There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be? > Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain? From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar thread sealant. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/searchby.asp?txtSearch=Loctite&select1=mfg On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me. I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.  SignatureDougW If it's not brass like a Ford would use, then just snug it with with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct size socket on it because you only have one chance to get it out of there. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-) > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it. > The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK. It's a square-hole plug, somehwere between 3/8" and 1/4". Looks like I'll be buying some square head sockets. Anyone know the correct size? > If it's not brass like a Ford would use, then just snug it with > with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it. > > The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK. It is made for an open ended wrench, I would suspect it is a 1/2", but it could be a 3/8" or even metric. This is one that vise grips are actually made for as well as plumber's pipe wrenches. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > It's a square-hole plug, somehwere between 3/8" and 1/4". Looks like I'll be > buying some square head sockets. Anyone know the correct size? [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > it. > > > The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK. Mike, On mine it is a square-hole plug, similar to the plug on my front Dana 30, that the end of a 3/8" extension fits into. My 3/8" extension doesn't fit it and a 1/4" extension is too small. > It is made for an open ended wrench, I would suspect it is a 1/2", but > it could be a 3/8" or even metric. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > it. > > > > The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK. |
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