Car Forum / Jeep / December 2004
novice question on getting a stuck vehicle out
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j.lef - 22 Dec 2004 19:21 GMT I have a novice question to ask . I have driven military humvees for six years, and when other vehicles get stuck, we get them out, any which way we can, forward backward, winch, etc. When I was in Iraq, time was the most important factor, not which way would put the most stress on the vehicles transmission or drive axle etc. So we got the job done, whichever way was quickest. The question I want to know as a new liberty owner, is what is the preferred method of getting another vehicle for example out thats stuck in a small side road gulley, or a snow bank etc. I have tow hooks front and rear, and plan on getting a winch. Which gearing should you use, tow from front of jeep, rear, use winch? I do not want to be a good sammaritan at the cost of an expensive repair on my vehicle either, so I want to reduce my chances of damaging my liberty. Thanks for all imput...
Much regards Jerry
Jeff Strickland - 22 Dec 2004 20:03 GMT When you have a choice, it is always best to pull with your vehicle in a forward gear. That is, pull in Drive instead of Reverse. The gears in the diff are cut in a manner to make them stronger going forward than backward, you need to leverage this design consideration instead of ignore it.
When winching, then obviously you will be pulling in Reverse because the winch will be mounted to the front. When winching, you may find that you might need to anchor your vehicle with a second vehicle because a winch won't always free the stuck vehicle, but it will always draw the lightest load toward the heaiver one. This means your vehicle may be pulled into the ditch.
Whether or not you pull in a forward gear or a reverse gear really dempends on just how stuck the object vehicle really is. If it merely can't get traction because the muffler is high centered, then pulling in reverse should be fine. But, if it has dropped off the side of the road and is buried in a culvert, then you will want to be sure to pull in a forward direction. If the object vehicle is able to run, then you might want the driver to be in it with the engine running and in gear and LIGHTLY applying the gas to help his car move. If it comes free, then he must be very careful to not run over the cable or strap. You always want to draw up the slack in the cable or strap before attempting to pull the object vehicle free. Do not snap a slack strap of cable. This is when the cable or strap will break and snap back towards you. If there is a bystander anywhere within the arc of the cable, they will be at risk of being hit by the flying cable or strap. As a safety precaution, you should always place a jacket or blanket over the cable or strap to absorb the energy in the event that it does break.
mabar - 22 Dec 2004 22:44 GMT I agree with everything that Jeff said, but I would like to add that when pulling or pushing out a stuck vehicle, you should be in 4-LO.
Tom
> When you have a choice, it is always best to pull with your vehicle in a > forward gear. That is, pull in Drive instead of Reverse. The gears in the [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > As a safety precaution, you should always place a jacket or blanket over the > cable or strap to absorb the energy in the event that it does break. L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 22 Dec 2004 22:56 GMT "pushing"? God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> I agree with everything that Jeff said, but I would like to add that when > pulling or pushing out a stuck vehicle, you should be in 4-LO. > > Tom j.lef - 22 Dec 2004 23:33 GMT > When you have a choice, it is always best to pull with your vehicle in a > forward gear. That is, pull in Drive instead of Reverse. The gears in the > diff are cut in a manner to make them stronger going forward than backward, > you need to leverage this design consideration instead of ignore it. > > On attaching a tow strap to a car, that needs to be pulled, what is the preferred spot on front and rear to attach the strap to?
Much regards
DougW - 22 Dec 2004 23:48 GMT j.lef did pass the time by typing:
>> When you have a choice, it is always best to pull with your vehicle in a >> forward gear. That is, pull in Drive instead of Reverse. The gears in the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> On attaching a tow strap to a car, that needs to be > pulled, what is the preferred spot on front and rear to attach the strap to? As an old farmer once told me..
"Here, sonny. Attach this to what you want comin out."
...
The rear axle around a draglink but never around the pumpkin. Preferably to the frame, but that requires a metal connector that some arn't comfy with. If you have to use a frame hook, put a heavy blanket over the strap close to the vehicle being pulled out.
twaldron - 23 Dec 2004 00:26 GMT LOL!
> As an old farmer once told me.. > > "Here, sonny. Attach this to what you want comin out."
 Signature ___________________________________________________________ tw
71 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________
L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 23 Dec 2004 02:31 GMT http://www.bordergatewayprotocol.net/jon/humor/video/snowtowcar.wmv God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> As an old farmer once told me.. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > some arn't comfy with. If you have to use a frame hook, put a heavy > blanket over the strap close to the vehicle being pulled out. L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 22 Dec 2004 20:11 GMT "any which way we can" Libby drivers should be insured with AAA. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> I have a novice question to ask . I have driven military > humvees for six years, and when other vehicles get stuck, we get them out, [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Much regards Jerry Steve - 22 Dec 2004 20:12 GMT Get a nylon snatch strap with loop ends (*not* metal hooks). This kind of strap will stretch and use stored energy to jerk the stuck vehicle out. Attaching to the rear of your vehicle is preferred. Always let the victim attach the strap to his own vehicle so you're not responsible if something is damaged. Ensure the victim does not secure it to or with something that could break free and become a projectile.
Steve http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> I have a novice question to ask . I have driven military > humvees for six years, and when other vehicles get stuck, we get them out, [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Much regards Jerry L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 22 Dec 2004 20:19 GMT http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=697 0&productId=669123&R=669123 God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> Get a nylon snatch strap with loop ends (*not* metal hooks). This kind > of strap will stretch and use stored energy to jerk the stuck vehicle [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Steve > http://xjeep.dyndns.org j.lef - 22 Dec 2004 20:42 GMT Thanks Jeff, Steve and Bill. Which forward gear, would you use? L fwd?
Also, an aside to Bill. Take this as a compliment. I have been reading your comments on this group for about six months, and always curious to see what you say. Sometimes its nasty, sometimes amusing, but always in the end a wealth of information.(usually with links to pictures, and diagrams) Keep up the good work.....
Much regards Jerry
Jeff Strickland - 22 Dec 2004 20:59 GMT Whichever one it takes. Usually, 4HI and 1st is a good choice, but be ready to go into 4LO.
> Thanks Jeff, Steve and Bill. > Which forward gear, would you use? L fwd? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Much regards Jerry mabar - 22 Dec 2004 22:46 GMT Hi Jeff:
Why 4-HI? I would think that the recovery vehicle should be in 4-LO, which would give the recovery vehicle a LOT more torque or "pulling power>"
Tom
> Whichever one it takes. Usually, 4HI and 1st is a good choice, but be ready > to go into 4LO. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > > Much regards Jerry L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 22 Dec 2004 23:18 GMT Sometimes we need a little speed to get out of the way of the stuckee. And we're direct drive to the rear axle, and bypassing some of the weak components such as that puny chain and sun and planetary gears: http://www.billhughes.com/BrokenCase01.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/BrokenCase01.jpg
> Hi Jeff: > > Why 4-HI? I would think that the recovery vehicle should be in 4-LO, which > would give the recovery vehicle a LOT more torque or "pulling power>" > > Tom Jeff Strickland - 23 Dec 2004 19:43 GMT > Hi Jeff: > > Why 4-HI? I would think that the recovery vehicle should be in 4-LO, which > would give the recovery vehicle a LOT more torque or "pulling power>" > > Tom If you are pulling cars out of snow banks with a Libby, 4HI should be OK more often than not. But, since one is starting from a standing stop, I suppose the effort to get into 4LO is about the same.
The trouble with using a Libby for recovery operations is that it is probably too light, and won't pull very well anyway. If it can accomplish the recovery operation at all, it can probably do it in HI. I am not meaning to go around dissing Libbys, it's just a matter of physics that the Libby is light, short, and narrow, and pulling stuff is going to be more a mattter of weight and traction than power.
jcwelch@hal-pc.org - 27 Dec 2004 01:54 GMT >The trouble with using a Libby for recovery operations >is that it is probably too light, and won't pull very well >anyway. If it can accomplish the recovery operation at all, >it can probably do it in HI. I am not meaning to go around >dissing Libbys, it's just... My experience with using a libby to unstick something: http://www.hal-pc.org/~jcwelch/stucktj.jpg
By the way, Liberty's are rated to 5,000lbs towing. I have had that TJ you see there on a lowboy trailor for a 100mi haul. The Liberty handeled it wonderfuly. Over the years I have trailered many vehicles, usually pulled by a full sized p.u. and the Libby is just as good as anything for pulling something. They also work great for dragging the occasional dead cow off down into the woods when the tractor is konked-out.
mabar - 27 Dec 2004 02:16 GMT Where was that photo taken?
Tom
> My experience with using a libby to unstick something: > http://www.hal-pc.org/~jcwelch/stucktj.jpg jcwelch@hal-pc.org - 28 Dec 2004 01:55 GMT > Where was that photo taken? Out behind my Mom's house. See: http://lnc.grwelch.com There is a creek that cuts a 40 acre pasture into two parts. The last time we had someone out there doing dozer work I had him cut a ford from one side of the creek to the other so that we would not have to go out to the road and drive around to the other side of pasture to check on the cows. Of course the cows go back and forth and erosion set in and now it is a nice Jeep trap.
The wrangler was doing something like this when I missed the line, slipped a deep rut and planted the frame. http://www.hal-pc.org/~jcwelch/MOV00010.MPG
If someone has 40 meg of spare web-space I can put up the rest of the set of movies. One day we went back there with the Wrangler and the Liberty and played 'follow the leader' while filming the whole thing. My ISP only gives me 10 meg of webspace and I was only able to get one of the files up.
mabar - 28 Dec 2004 01:59 GMT Cool. It looked like an area I was in in PA.
Tom
> > Where was that photo taken? > Out behind my Mom's house. See: Jeff Strickland - 22 Dec 2004 20:57 GMT > Get a nylon snatch strap with loop ends (*not* metal hooks). This kind > of strap will stretch and use stored energy to jerk the stuck vehicle [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Steve > http://xjeep.dyndns.org I disagree with you. Not completely, but alot.
First, You and I might know where to attach a strap, but if we get stuck it is because we were playing at a time when we should have been paying attention. The vast majority of people that get stuck were paying close attention and they still got stuck; they are clueless of where to attach a strap. Heck, I have seen Jeepers attach a strap to a body mount bolt, then scratch their head wondering why there is a new hole in the tub, so giving the benefit of the doubt because a Jeep is involved is dangerous. I think a novice should NEVER be given the responsibility to attach a strap or cable. And if you are not able to attach a strap where it will do no damage, then you should leave the vehicle buried in the snow.
Second, the strap should be pulled up tight before the pulling begins. Driving off with a slack strap, and having it draw tight and yank all at once is the second or third option, it is NEVER THE FIRST attempt.
> > I have a novice question to ask . I have driven military > > humvees for six years, and when other vehicles get stuck, we get them out, [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > > > Much regards Jerry Nathan Otis - 23 Dec 2004 02:42 GMT Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". No one ever says where to attach the strap to...
Anyone wanna break the silence? Cause I'd really like to know. On yer standard issue sedan, what do you hook up to? n.
> First, You and I might know where to attach a strap... Jeff Strickland - 23 Dec 2004 02:54 GMT > Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either > says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > standard issue sedan, what do you hook up to? > n. I always attach the strap, and I attach it to the frame. If I have to, I use a chain to get to both sides of the frame, then hook my strap to the chain. The chain is strong enough for the load, and I route the chain through the loop on the end of my strap.
Tomes - 23 Dec 2004 04:16 GMT Jeff - can you please describe "the chain"? I would be interested in what others use for "the chain" as well, thanks. Tomes
> > Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either > > says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > The chain is strong enough for the load, and I route the chain through the > loop on the end of my strap. Mike Romain - 23 Dec 2004 13:14 GMT 'The chain' is a deadly weapon that Jeff has no business advocating adding to the end of a strap!
This is the BIGGEST NO NO you can do!!!!!
You 'never' add a chain or any metal parts to a looped tow strap!
NEVER!
We just had this discussion here a while ago when the last guy got killed by a flying metal piece hooked to a strap.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Jeff - can you please describe "the chain"? > I would be interested in what others use for "the chain" as well, thanks. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > The chain is strong enough for the load, and I route the chain through the > > loop on the end of my strap. L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 23 Dec 2004 19:38 GMT Sometimes, I need to save the strap from being cut, I would then use a short piece of chain to make a loop around the frame and though the strap, about the size of your trailer safety chains. Just use our brains, when adding a possible missile. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> 'The chain' is a deadly weapon that Jeff has no business advocating > adding to the end of a strap! [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Jeff Strickland - 23 Dec 2004 20:00 GMT > 'The chain' is a deadly weapon that Jeff has no business advocating > adding to the end of a strap! I don't add it to the strap. I wrap it to the frame to separate the strap from any sharp edges. If there are no sharp edges, then I don't use it.
Basically it only do this for the idiots from the city that drive the Maximas up the wash and get stuck in the sand.
> This is the BIGGEST NO NO you can do!!!!! > > You 'never' add a chain or any metal parts to a looped tow strap! > > NEVER! Right.
The chain is merely used as a auxiliary anchor point if the logical anchor points can damage the strap. The point here is that I am not making the strap longer, I am making the anchor point safer. And, we are talking about pulling a car from a snow bank, not getting a stuck Jeep out of a ravine.
> We just had this discussion here a while ago when the last guy got > killed by a flying metal piece hooked to a strap. That's why the chain is connected to the frame by at least two loops. Please remember the goal here is to pull a car out of a snow bank, not lift a Jeep up a cliff.
Mike Romain - 23 Dec 2004 20:10 GMT I know 'you' have a half a clue how to use them Jeff, it's just the general public might get the idea it's ok to combine a chain and a strap and even doing it carefully can lead to deadly consequences if a link pops.
It will be the hook link too you know.
Using a chain and loose hook is a 'last resort' and if you have to go that far, you should 'not' be towing the fool out of the ditch, a tow truck should.
My $0.02,
Mike
> > 'The chain' is a deadly weapon that Jeff has no business advocating > > adding to the end of a strap! [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > remember the goal here is to pull a car out of a snow bank, not lift a Jeep > up a cliff. Jeff Strickland - 23 Dec 2004 19:54 GMT I have a short length of chain that can accomodate 5000 pound loads. It is probably about 6 ft long. The only use for it is to wrap around the frame so the sharp edges of the undercarriage are away from my strap. I use a double loop on the chain to maximize the capacity, and I use a couple of D-rings to couple the ends together.
Using a chain is problematic because if it should break then it can go flying. The way I tie it, it would have to not only break but unravel itself from the frame of the object vehicle before it could go anywhere, so all things considered, it should be OK. It also matters that the kinds of places where it is used are not the kinds of places where the stress will break the chain. The only reason I get it out is if I fear sharp-edge issues that can damage my strap. And, I NEVER yank the loads. I always pull the strap up tight, then start the pull of the load. If my 11.50's can't get a bite, then I need another Jeep to help anyway, and yanking stuff under those conditions strikes me as dangerous.
> Jeff - can you please describe "the chain"? > I would be interested in what others use for "the chain" as well, thanks. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > The chain is strong enough for the load, and I route the chain through the > > loop on the end of my strap. Mike Romain - 23 Dec 2004 13:14 GMT If I have to, I use
> a chain to get to both sides of the frame, then hook my strap to the chain. > The chain is strong enough for the load, and I route the chain through the > loop on the end of my strap. Jeff!!!!!
You are advocating the biggest no no ever to do here bud!
Folks, NEVER add a metal chain or any other piece of metal to a looped tow strap!
The last person we heard of doing this is now pushing up daisies, may he RIP.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeff Strickland - 23 Dec 2004 20:04 GMT > If I have to, I use > > a chain to get to both sides of the frame, then hook my strap to the chain. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > The last person we heard of doing this is now pushing up daisies, may he > RIP. You are not picturing it right Mike.
What is going on here is, 1.) we are talking about getting a car that is stuck in the snow on the side of the road, and 2.) it can have sharp edges on the under carriage that can damage a strap. I use a short length of chain to go around the frame at least twice to create a "soft" anchor point that will not harm the strap. That is all. The only goal is to create an anchor point that will prevent damage to the strap.
Mike Romain - 23 Dec 2004 20:16 GMT > > If I have to, I use > > > a chain to get to both sides of the frame, then hook my strap to the [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > will not harm the strap. That is all. The only goal is to create an anchor > point that will prevent damage to the strap. I am picturing a loose hook on the end of a strap going ballistic is all....
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeff Strickland - 25 Dec 2004 18:19 GMT >> > If I have to, I use >> > > a chain to get to both sides of the frame, then hook my strap to the [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > I am picturing a loose hook on the end of a strap going ballistic is > all.... I understand. That is a scary picture to be sure, but that is not what I am suggesting here.
twaldron - 23 Dec 2004 02:57 GMT > Anyone wanna break the silence? Cause I'd really like to know. On yer > standard issue sedan, what do you hook up to? > n. Just close the big metal hook in the sunroof and yank. ;) Actually, some sedans actually have factory tow hooks. Toyota is fond of putting them on. My Porsche does. Your vehicle may vary. You might try looking at the owner's manual prior to hooking up, though. Good question, because, after all, this _is_ the season for sedan fishing.
 Signature ___________________________________________________________ tw
71 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________
Dave Milne - 29 Dec 2004 23:58 GMT From what I can see, cars have "tie down loops" - suitable for tying the car to a transporter truck, but not really suitable for towing them with.
Dave Milne
> > Anyone wanna break the silence? Cause I'd really like to know. On yer > > standard issue sedan, what do you hook up to? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > at the owner's manual prior to hooking up, though. Good question, > because, after all, this _is_ the season for sedan fishing. twaldron - 30 Dec 2004 00:07 GMT To be honest, Dave, I'm not at all sure what the ratings are on those hooks.
> From what I can see, cars have "tie down loops" - suitable for tying the car > to a transporter truck, but not really suitable for towing them with. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >>because, after all, this _is_ the season for sedan fishing. >>  Signature ___________________________________________________________ tw
71 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" 01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) ___________________________________________________________
L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 30 Dec 2004 06:21 GMT I would be interested in knowing what there rating is. In the old days we could find those same hooks on all cars, but they where use to tie the vehicles to railroad train flat cars for transit. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> To be honest, Dave, I'm not at all sure what the ratings are on those hooks. Jeff Strickland - 30 Dec 2004 17:35 GMT I would have no problem using them to get a car out of a snow bank. They would not be good for dragging a car up from the bottom of a ravine, but they should be fine to get it unstuck from a crub or out of the ditch on the side of the road.
> To be honest, Dave, I'm not at all sure what the ratings are on those hooks. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >>at the owner's manual prior to hooking up, though. Good question, > >>because, after all, this _is_ the season for sedan fishing. Jeff Strickland - 30 Dec 2004 17:37 GMT BTW, My BMW comes with one of those that I can screw into the bumper. It is specifically intended to get the car out of the snow or off of a curb. It would be good for any thing more strenuous though.
> To be honest, Dave, I'm not at all sure what the ratings are on those hooks. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >>at the owner's manual prior to hooking up, though. Good question, > >>because, after all, this _is_ the season for sedan fishing. DougW - 23 Dec 2004 03:03 GMT Nathan Otis did pass the time by typing:
> Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either > says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". No > one ever says where to attach the strap to... > > Anyone wanna break the silence? Cause I'd really like to know. On yer > standard issue sedan, what do you hook up to? Most vehciles have pull points on the frame, but depending on the angle those can bend the back bumper or body metal.
Modern vehicles don't have real bumpers, most will simply rip off with the slightest stress.
If it's another Jeep or truck and they have a ClassIII hitch I usually pin the loop in there for a straight pull. Pulling at an angle may bend the frame on the newer trucks.
For the underside I use a couple of T hooks welded into a chain. Not to be confused with that shiny metal hook that comes on suicide tow straps. http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/43572.htm
I have pulled from the axle mounts, but only if they have a draglink that runs back to the frame. That has a high potential of screwing up alignment.
Another location is a frame cross member if you have to pull at an angle. Usually the tranny mount crossmember, but some times like on old chevys you can get a strap around the motor crossmember. Never pull on an A-arm old ones may take it but the new ones will snap.
Truthfully it depends on the vehicle. Even tow companies have books for hooking up.
 Signature DougW
Mike Romain - 23 Dec 2004 13:22 GMT Well...... That is somewhat of a problem.......
There really 'is' no safe place to hook a snatch strap to a 'stock' car or a Jeep for that matter unless tow hooks have been properly mounted.
On cars, there are no bumpers anymore, no frame, no solid hook points. You can wrap it around a trailing arm for a rear wheel or a control arm in the front, but if you have to pull too hard, damage will occur, same for a rear axle or shackle or trailer hitch even.
To be honest, pulling cars is best left to tow trucks with their liability insurance.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either > says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". No [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > > First, You and I might know where to attach a strap... SteveBrady - 23 Dec 2004 15:45 GMT Speaking of Tow hooks, I've got a set in the front, but what with the new job and the crappy ploughed road we have to drive up (not city maintained -- easement) it gets icy and a couple people have ended up in the ditch; and me being the only truck there....well, the fronts are nice, but I want rears too. I've got the stock bumper with a bolt on hitch (not part of the bumper). I went to JustJeeps in Toronto and was trying to find a pair of those sideways hooks for mounting in the rear! The guy happened to have one, but 2 is nice! Anyhow, he called the supplier and they're no longer an OEM product. Guess DC is letting the aftermarket do its thing!
> Well...... That is somewhat of a problem....... > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] >> >> > First, You and I might know where to attach a strap... L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III - 23 Dec 2004 19:28 GMT Probably in this litigious society, Daimler is bailing on taking any responsibility for selling a product that may be improperly installed: http://www.stu-offroad.com/hooks-skid/tj_hooks.htm God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> Speaking of Tow hooks, I've got a set in the front, but what with the new > job and the crappy ploughed road we have to drive up (not city maintained -- [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > and they're no longer an OEM product. > Guess DC is letting the aftermarket do its thing! Jeff Strickland - 23 Dec 2004 20:31 GMT If you look, you will find holes the frame behind the rear tires that are used to attach hooks on the back or your TJ.
> Speaking of Tow hooks, I've got a set in the front, but what with the new > job and the crappy ploughed road we have to drive up (not city maintained -- [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > >> > >> > First, You and I might know where to attach a strap... griffin - 23 Dec 2004 16:56 GMT The person with the most knowledge and experience should attach the strap. As I was leaving an offroad trail one day a few years back, a stock Jeep had gotten himself pretty stuck. When I backed up to hook up to him, I realized he had no tow-hooks. Going against my better judgement (which said ...if this guy goes mudding with no hooks ...he's an idiot) I asked him where he wanted me to hook up to. He looks under his Jeep and says "just go around this thing." The thing he pointed at was his shackle for his leaf springs. Needless to say, people with the least knowledge should not be given this choice ...not just for damage and liability purposes, but also for safety. I, for one, didn't feel like having a shackle snap off during a pull and go flying through the air.
With that said, all vehicles are obviously very different. In general, if you can get far enough underneath (especially the rear), there is almost always a frame member or crossmember that is somewhat accessible. I will take my strap and wrap it around this member (ensure that it won't slide against another component that will end up taking the force), and loop the strap through itself. Then, slowly loosen the slack and double-check to make sure the strap hasn't moved. I tend to give a few little tugs to get the strap to really clamp down on itself and the frame member. I have never encountered any problems doing this with either cars or trucks.
However, as someone mentioned, be very careful of excess strap. If you run over it, you will end up causing more problems than you really want to deal with. The physics of that possible situation are scary.
> Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either > says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". No [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > > First, You and I might know where to attach a strap... Jeff Strickland - 23 Dec 2004 20:28 GMT I guess I need to clarify what I said, or what you guys might think I said.
Using a chain as a recovery device is dangerous. Very dangerous. Using a strap with a hook on the ends is also dangerous. Very dangerous.
Having said that, there is a time and a way that a chain is a useful tool, indeed can be required if one is attempting recovery of a passenger that is stuck in snow or sand. I can't think of a long list of good times, in fact I can think of only one. That is where there is a very real danger of destroying the tow strap is it is attached directly to the object vehicle.
If I think my strap is going to be damaged, and I can't simply attach it elsewhere to avoid the damage, then I have a short lenght of about 4 ft of chain that I double wrap around a suitable part of the frame, and through the eyelet on my strap. This will get my strap away from the sharp edge so that the car can be recovered from the snow bank or sand trap.
I would NEVER use a chain to recover a Jeep that was stuck while wheeling. As Mike Romain says, that is a disaster waiting to happen. But the OP was asking how to use a Libby to pull people out of the snow, and there is not likely to be enough stored energy to break anything, at least nothing that I own and would use for recovery.
To address Nathan, I always attach my stuff to the vehicles that I am recovering, IF those vehicles are not Jeepers that are known to me to be intelligent and safety conscious. When I am pulling some guy back to the pavement because he took his Maxima into a dry creek bed, I am pretty certain he has no clue where to attach a recovery device of any kind. Like another poster suggested, tongue in cheek of course, have them close the sun roof on the strap, and hang on to it while you pull, and they would probably do it.
I want to be on record along side Mike R., using a chain is dangerous for recoveries in offroading situations. But, one can safely use a chain to get a car from the sand or snow, and save damaging a strap.
> Ya know, when this topic comes up (and it comes up a lot), everyone either > says, "Let them attach the strap" or, "NEVER let them attach the strap". No [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > > First, You and I might know where to attach a strap... Mike Romain - 23 Dec 2004 21:07 GMT Thanks for clarifying Jeff.
A 4' 'tree saver' strap comes to my mind for that purpose. If the person wants the tow, he can cover the cost of a new one of those if it gets damaged.
I 'have' damaged straps on recoveries. It happens. I have a winch now but still carry the strap.
Mike
> I guess I need to clarify what I said, or what you guys might think I said. > [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > > > > First, You and I might know where to attach a strap... Jeff Strickland - 25 Dec 2004 18:22 GMT > Thanks for clarifying Jeff. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Mike Exactly. I hadn't thought of a tree-saver, but that is exactly how I am using the chain. Also, don't forget, I am pulling a passenger car out of a snow bank, not dragging an offroader out of a ravine.
Jeff Strickland - 26 Dec 2004 01:22 GMT half an hour keeping the stock thick. Remove the carcass and add the vegetables slowly to the stock, so that it remains boiling the whole time. Cover the pot and simmer till vegetables are tender (2 hours approximately). Continue seasoning to taste. Before serving, add butter and pasta, serve piping with hot bread and butter.
Offspring Rolls
Similar to Vietnamese style fried rolls, they have lots of meat (of course this can consist of chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp). Who can resist this classic appetizer; or light lunch served with a fresh salad? Versatility is probably this recipe?s greatest virtue, as one can use the best part of a prime, rare, yearling, or the morticians occasional horror: a small miracle stopped short by a drunk driver, or the innocent victim of a drive-by shooting...
2 cups finely chopped very young human flesh 1 cup shredded cabbage 1 cup bean sprouts 5 sprigs green onion, finely chopped 5 cloves minced garlic 4-6 ounces bamboo shoots Sherry chicken broth oil for deep frying (1 gallon) Salt pepper soy & teriyaki minced ginger, etc. 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water 1 egg beaten
Make the stuffing: Marinate the flesh in a mixture of soy and teriyaki sauces then stir fry in hot oil for till brown - about 1 minute, remove. Stir-fry the vegetables. Put the meat back into the wok and adjust the seasoning. De-glaze with sherry, cooking off the alcohol. Add broth (optional) cook a few more minutes. Add the cornstarch, cook a few minutes till thick, then place the stuffing into a colander and cool; 2 hour
Jeff Strickland - 26 Dec 2004 01:35 GMT have lots of meat (of course this can consist of chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp). Who can resist this classic appetizer; or light lunch served with a fresh salad? Versatility is probably this recipe?s greatest virtue, as one can use the best part of a prime, rare, yearling, or the morticians occasional horror: a small miracle stopped short by a drunk driver, or the innocent victim of a drive-by shooting...
2 cups finely chopped very young human flesh 1 cup shredded cabbage 1 cup bean sprouts 5 sprigs green onion, finely chopped 5 cloves minced garlic 4-6 ounces bamboo shoots Sherry chicken broth oil for deep frying (1 gallon) Salt pepper soy & teriyaki minced ginger, etc. 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water 1 egg beaten
Make the stuffing: Marinate the flesh in a mixture of soy and teriyaki sauces then stir fry in hot oil for till brown - about 1 minute, remove. Stir-fry the vegetables. Put the meat back into the wok and adjust the seasoning. De-glaze with sherry, cooking off the alcohol. Add broth (optional) cook a few more minutes. Add the cornstarch, cook a few minutes till thick, then place the stuffing into a colander and cool; 2 hours Wrap the rolls: Place 3 tablespoons of stuffing in the wrap, roll tightly - corner nearest you first, fold 2 side corners in, wrap
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