Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Kia Cars / August 2004

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

2001 2.4 Optima Hesitation/Stalling Help?

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
IndyOptima - 03 Aug 2004 16:48 GMT
It hasnt stalled yet, but during idle and acceleration there is serious
hesitation and sputtering.  It is getting really bad.  We took it into the
dealer (55kmiles) and asked for a diagnosis (they charge $50 to diagnose)
and they said: change fuel filter, spark plugs, and trans fluid (or we'll
do it for $200).  I took it home, changed the fuel filter, put in the best
platinum sparks I could buy, and used Kia tranny fluid for the auto trans
fluid change.  Things are even worse and I dont feel like taking it back
so they can think about it again for $50.

I saw a post about bad ignition wires.  I wonder if these are the same
symptoms?  Any help?
hyundaitech - 03 Aug 2004 22:29 GMT
Sounds like plug wires.  I've replaced a few (but not a lot) of these on
2.4 Sonatas (the same basic car).  Unfortunately, Kia says plug wires are
2/24 only.  But the good news is that you only have two of them.  

Presumably, you should have a check engine lamp if you have a misfire that
bad.  Do you?  Did the dealer present to you that these items were going to
resolve the hesitation, etc.?  If so, I'd ask them what they're going to do
about the $50.  If you did all the things they recommended, used parts that
were not defective, and did the job properly, then you didn't get the $50
diagnosis you paid for.  What you got was the dealer telling you the
required maintenance for 60k.  

To check the wires, remove the plastic cover off the top center of the
engine.  Pull the plug wires off and look at the ends that go down into
the plug holes.  If you see carbon on the outside of the plastic, they're
bad.  If they look ok, put them back on the coils and rest them on top of
the plugs (do not fully clip into place on the plugs).  Then start the
car.  If one of the wires is arcing onto the plug hole wall, you can look
down into the hole as you gradually pull the plug wire up off the plug and
see the fireworks through or off the side of the plug wire.  Sometimes the
plastic just has a small pinhole you can't even see, but it sparks really
well.
IndyOptima - 04 Aug 2004 03:28 GMT
There is not a single light that has lit on the dash, no check engine or
anything.  Im really surprised it hasnt coded out.  

You are correct, if we go back I will definitely explain what has happened
and that the original diagnosis didnt help.  I would hope that they would
be fair about it.  Regardless, Im trying to avoid going back just becuase
of the hassle.

Im going to go ahead and order the NGK plug wires and change them since
its something I should have done anyway it sounds like.  Hopefully that
solves it...

Thanks for the advice!  

Jared
hyundaitech - 04 Aug 2004 17:58 GMT
Just to check, pull the hose off the egr valve and see if the problem goes
away.  If so, your egr solenoid is probably stuck closed.  

If you can find it, you can also check the purge control valve.  It'll
look like a round can about 1.25" in diameter and 1.25" long.  It'll be
mounted to the back of the intake manifold.  Pinch the hose shut and see
if the engine runs better.  If so, the purge valve is likely stuck open.

I don't hold high hopes for either of these, since they don't typically
cause performance issues except at idle.  I have seen them go bad and not
set codes in the ways I describe, however.
IndyOptima - 06 Aug 2004 19:25 GMT
Ok, I put the new NGK wires in.  They look like good quality wires by the
way.  It has cured the hesitation during acceleration!  Whew, it feels
alot better.  It still acts like it is going to stall at idle however.  I
am going to try your EGR and PCV tricks to see if I can determine what
needs to be replaced.  Are these parts only available through KIA, or are
there aftermarkets available?

Thanks,

Jared
IndyOptima - 09 Aug 2004 02:12 GMT
I was trying to investigate my idle issues tonight.  It only seems to act
up when the car is in Drive.  Anyway, Im having trouble identifying the
location of the EGR and PCV.  I felt around on the back of the intake
manifold and found a sensor with an electrical connector in the center
rear, and what looked like a 12.5mm hose going to the brake master
cylinder...very confusing.

I played around with the three rubber lines going into the top of the
throttle body with casting marks labeled P,E,A on the throttle body.
Pinching off tube A makes the car stall.  E and P dont seem to have any
affect.

So, can you give me a better idea of where the EGR and PCV are at?

Thanks in advance,

Jared

Rate this thread:






 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.