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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / May 2006Diesel or Petrol?
OK, I'm the guy who wants to buy a Landover & I know nothing about them. Should I buy a diesel or a petrol? Pros & cons? Thanks Quagga.R.T.M <quagga.r.t.m@ntlworld.com> uttered summat worrerz funny about: > OK, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Thanks Really it depends on the type of Landrover you buy and what sort of engine it has. ;-) Lee D >OK, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Thanks Not much difference in fuel consumption in reality, and as a hobby truck you won't be doing thousands of miles. So economy is probably neither here nor there. I'd say petrols are easy to maintain and fiddle with (I've had both, and kept the petrol one). Yes, there's quite a few bits in the ignition system, but it's all easy to fix at home. The diesel fuel system is pretty reliable, but the injector pump is not an easy thing to maintain yourself. My diesel was a complete slug - wouldn't top 50 mph. Sounds bearable, but in reality it was a real pain in the neck. My petrol, when it goes at all, will cruise the M1 behind the artics very happily. Diesel comes into its own in deep water and in deepest Africa. With no electrics to drown it will go much deeper. And diesel is probably easier to find in the back of beyond. For me, petrol every time. YMMV!  SignatureTim Hobbs '58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig" '03 Volvo V70 '06 Nissan Navara aka "The Truck" > Should I buy a diesel or a petrol? Depends on the age of truck you're buying. The early diesels (pre 200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols, but from the 200TDi onwards they had bags of torque and were very strong. Early 300TDi engines had a few well-known and easily rectified faults, once fixed they're very good engines. They can also be easily upgraded with things like larger intercoolers. So pre-200TDi, petrol is yer best bet, but from 200TDi onwards then I reckon diesels win out. Lots of torque, they handle the damp, and you don't end up as one of those rev-happy dorks at pay-and-play sites who spin their wheels all over the place and shower everyone with diff teeth. SignatureBlast off and strike the evil Bydo empire! >> Should I buy a diesel or a petrol? > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >spin their wheels all over the place and shower everyone with diff >teeth. I'd definitely second that. Over the years I've driven a fair few different LR products, and, pre-200tdi I'd go for petrol every time. 200tdi or later it's a closer thing, depending on product. Defender/Disco, I'd go for diesel, RR - the biggest V8 petrol you can get ;-) Will Signaturelancre dot net - The personal domain of Will and Cath Wilkinson. Send e-mail to news dot will at lancre dot net '98 300Tdi Defender 110 CSW, 1/12th NB Sometimes PGP Fingerprint E089 1736 A023 9E5C AFA3 0B40 E5DC D80A 9E1F D521 Public key can be obtained from ldap://certserver.pgp.com > RR - the biggest V8 petrol you can get ;-) I was out today with a V8 rangie, my petrol pinz, and a diesel disco, rangie conked out in a ford that didn't reach up much higher than the top third of the wheels. He got out of the ford OK but when he came off the throttle it died and we had to spend 15 minutes or so fiddle-arsing around with WD40 to get it to go again. It was fine afterwards but I'd not like to get a V8 wet if I could avoid it, I've seen too many conk out or run like dogs once you get them wet. You can of course water-proof a petrol but what with the fuel consumption it doesn't seem worth it. Diesel is safer too, if you get a tank split it's not so much of a worry. SignatureBlast off and strike the evil Bydo empire! || The early diesels (pre || 200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols, || but from the 200TDi onwards they had bags of torque and were very || strong. Just a word in defence of the 2.5 n/a diesel - they are pretty reliable, otherwise the army wouldn't have specified them for so long, and I always found mine acceptable in traffic. No fireball, but able to keep up. The 2.5 turbo has the bad reputation. SignatureRich ============================== I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one. > || The early diesels (pre > || 200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > found mine acceptable in traffic. No fireball, but able to keep up. The > 2.5 turbo has the bad reputation. I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom pulley, keyway and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the result of valves and pistons connecting. Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else? Derek Disco Tdi200- busy writing a parts list for the weekend. >> || The early diesels (pre >> || 200TDi) were either sluggish or unreliable compared to the petrols, [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Derek > Disco Tdi200- busy writing a parts list for the weekend. tightened mine with an impact gun, looks ok jOn <nospamta@ntl-wurld.com> uttered summat worrerz funny about: >> I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As >> and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >> > tightened mine with an impact gun, looks ok Tom where are you? Tom has a rebuilt Sherpa Diesel 2.5..... If any one does any lanes between Oswestry and Bala and sees a crank pulley bolt and keyshaft I'm sure Tom would appreciate them back. Lee >Tom where are you? Tom has a rebuilt Sherpa Diesel 2.5..... If any one does >any lanes between Oswestry and Bala and sees a crank pulley bolt and >keyshaft I'm sure Tom would appreciate them back. I think the replacement bits came to less than a fiver! (and that included a rear reflector and some door hinge nuts too!) - so it was probably once of my cheapest visits to a landrover parts stockists ever! >I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As >and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the >woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom pulley, keyway >and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the result of valves and >pistons connecting. >Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else? I'm glad its not just me then! (2.5 N/A) It chewed up its first woodruff key about 18 months ago. It then dropped off its crank pulley bolt and chewed up another key a couple of weeks ago in wales. (probably lost this one as i hardly put any locktite on the bolt and the lock washer was crap!). The bottom pulley seems to be reusable (though ask Lee and Tim how lucky I was to find it when it fell off near Nantwich!), though it and the crank are now slightly scored and worn - and the key hole is a little bit mauled. I am going to purchase a spare key and bolt to keep in the back when i next visit beamends! Despite this - with a decent fuel distributer pump and a good battery/charging system i've no complaints about the 2.5 N/A engine. I used to get 30+ mpg out of mine when i drove it every day too. || I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As || and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the || woodruff key on the crankshaft, result being a mangled bottom || pulley, keyway and also if you are unlucky timing pulley and the || result of valves and pistons connecting. || Mostly seem to be on rebuilt engines anyone else? Happened on mine. Charge light was glowing, so tightened the alternator belt, and found out why the PO had left it slack! Mucho clattering from the front of the lump, crank pulley loose as a very loose thing. I got away with just tightening it, as there was no damage to the key or keyway. I wonder if they work slack because people take them off to do belts etc and don't quite realise just how tight they need to be when you put it all back together. SignatureRich ============================== I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one. >|| I have to have a 2pence worth- I seem to be seeing a number of N/As >|| and TD's ( including a colleagues) with a problem involving the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >don't quite realise just how tight they need to be when you put it all back >together. 300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Confidence: Before important work meetings, boost your confidence by reading a few pages from "The Tibetan Book of the Dead" from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton. >300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as >they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove. When i rebuilt my engine i couldnt get the crank pulley off initially as it was tighter than a tight thing. Had to stick the block in the back of my mates landy so he could take it to work where i think they parked a truck on it to stop it moving (or got lots of lads to sit on it!) and undid it with an air gun. >>300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as >>they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >it to work where i think they parked a truck on it to stop it moving >(or got lots of lads to sit on it!) and undid it with an air gun. easier way, big long breaker bar and a socket, wedge the breaker bar against the chassis and flick the ignition momentarily until the bolt loosens. Works for me every time. SignatureSimon Isaacs Peterborough 4x4 Club Chairman, Newsletter Editor and Webmaster Green Lane Association (GLASS) Financial Director 101 Ambi, undergoing camper conversion www.simoni.co.uk 1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an offer! Suzuki SJ410 (Wife's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next 1993 200 TDi Discovery 1994 200 TDi Discovery body shell, being bobbed and modded..... >>>300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as >>>they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >against the chassis and flick the ignition momentarily until the bolt >loosens. Works for me every time. Might have worked if i hadnt just driven the truck a couple of miles without any oil in and siezed the engine up! ;) >>>>300 TDi ones are so bloody tight that I never actually got it as tight as >>>>they say it should be. They're also next-to-impossible to remove. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >Might have worked if i hadnt just driven the truck a couple of miles >without any oil in and siezed the engine up! ;) O SignatureSimon Isaacs Peterborough 4x4 Club Chairman, Newsletter Editor and Webmaster Green Lane Association (GLASS) Financial Director 101 Ambi, undergoing camper conversion www.simoni.co.uk 1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an offer! Suzuki SJ410 (Wife's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next 1993 200 TDi Discovery 1994 200 TDi Discovery body shell, being bobbed and modded..... >easier way, big long breaker bar and a socket, wedge the breaker bar >against the chassis and flick the ignition momentarily until the bolt >loosens. Works for me every time. that only worked in the disco 300 TDi after I a) bought a better breaker bar (the first one broke - and that had stood up to serious abuse in the past) and even then it required the bar to be set a couple of inches above the chassis so that it got a bit of momentum. just wedging it against the chassis and turning the starter did nothing. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that "Remember that to change your mind and follow him who sets you right is to be none the less free than you were before." Marcus Aurelius Antoninus (121-180), from Meditations, VIII.16 > On or around Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:29:31 +0100, Simon Isaacs > <me@privacy.net> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > chassis so that it got a bit of momentum. just wedging it against the > chassis and turning the starter did nothing. I have found that quick flicks of the key usually works even on the most tight >> that only worked in the disco 300 TDi after I a) bought a better breaker >> bar [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >I have found that quick flicks of the key usually works even on the most >tight Have you read the instructions for tightening the 300 TDi front bolt? something along the lines of 59 ft lbs followed by 180 degrees, with loctite on the threads. I never actually got 180 degrees on it, even with a bit breaker bar and a bit of tube to make it longer. The bolt just stopped moving and I didn't see the point in overloading the breaker or the socket 'til something snapped. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too! |
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