Hi to all. The rear wiper on my TD5 started slowing down, then
eventually packed in working.
I've checked the fuse, that's ok. Now when I remove the switch to
inspect it, I discover it's just not a straight poled switch. It {seems}
to contain the relay board as well, is this correct. I need to know
how/if I can check this before looking towards the motor. Any one any
pointers please. And I guess if it's the switch ,it's gonna be mega
bucks for genuine. d;-(( TIA Dave

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> Hi to all. The rear wiper on my TD5 started slowing down, then
> eventually packed in working.
Disco I, Disco II or Defender TD5 2001?
> I've checked the fuse, that's ok. Now when I remove the switch to
> inspect it, I discover it's just not a straight poled switch. It
> {seems} to contain the relay board as well,
On a Disco II very few (I'm tempted to say none) of the switches directly
control the device they are for. There is a computer in the way and the
switching is done with solid state relays built into the interior fuse
box or real relays in the engine compartment fuse box. This means you
don't need big meaty, expensive, switches. Simple, cheap, low
voltage/current ones will do.
As it was a progessive fault I'd take the wiper motor assembly out and
have look inside. SWMBO'd Fiesta rear wiper did just the same thing last
year. Water was getting in down the shaft and there is no drain hole in
the casing. It filled up started to rust, eventually enough insulating
crude got onto the auto park contacts to stop it completly. Strip down
dry, clean the worst of the nasty gunk out, regrease, drill small drain
hole and it's been fine since.

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Cheers new5pam@howhill.com
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
Dave Piggin - 22 May 2006 10:43 GMT
Hi to all. The rear wiper on my TD5 started slowing down, then
eventually packed in working.
I've checked the fuse, that's ok. Now when I remove the switch to
inspect it, I discover it's just not a straight poled switch. It
{seems} to contain the relay board as well,
On a Disco II very few (I'm tempted to say none) of the switches directly
control the device they are for. There is a computer in the way and the
switching is done with solid state relays built into the interior fuse
box or real relays in the engine compartment fuse box. This means you
don't need big meaty, expensive, switches. Simple, cheap, low
voltage/current ones will do.
As it was a progessive fault I'd take the wiper motor assembly out and
have look inside. SWMBO'd Fiesta rear wiper did just the same thing last
year. Water was getting in down the shaft and there is no drain hole in
the casing. It filled up started to rust, eventually enough insulating
crude got onto the auto park contacts to stop it completly. Strip down
dry, clean the worst of the nasty gunk out, regrease, drill small drain
hole and it's been fine since.
Thanks for the reply Dave. I was trying to avoid removing the motor by
working backwards 'the easy bit', then progressing towards the motor
assembly. As a last option I'll recheck the cableing to the motor just
in case a wire has come off. What surprised me was the switch assembly
and haveing no way to check via a meter if it'd working or not {
continuity } I have the workshop manual so I'll re read it although it's
not very descriptive. I hate the options of replaceing bits to acheive
getting it to work again, sooner get to the source!! Dave
> Hi to all. The rear wiper on my TD5 started slowing down, then
> eventually packed in working.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> pointers please. And I guess if it's the switch ,it's gonna be mega
> bucks for genuine. d;-(( TIA Dave
Mine has done this since new when the rear screen was dry but it's OK
normally. Is this what you are seeing?
Bill