Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / May 2006
Which Jack for a Defender?
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Jon - 26 May 2006 09:11 GMT Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my 2T jack thats not tall enough.
At the moment I have to use a jack and block of wood - which aint great!
Im only a DIY landy bod, not a propwer mechanic so dont want to spend shed loads of £££'s. Any suggestions for a jack that doesnt need an wooden extender block please!!
Thanks Jon
Mark Solesbury - 26 May 2006 09:36 GMT > Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my > 2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Thanks > Jon Ive used a trolly jack and half a railway sleeper for years.... Its even got little dents in it now so the jack doesnt move! :)
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beamendsltd - 26 May 2006 10:33 GMT > > Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my > > 2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Ive used a trolly jack and half a railway sleeper for years.... Its even > got little dents in it now so the jack doesnt move! :) We use a 2T trolley jack from ScrewFix (about 10 years old) - it's fine. I suppose different makes have different reaches.....
Richard
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Dave Liquorice - 26 May 2006 09:47 GMT > Any suggestions for a jack that doesnt need an wooden extender block > please!! I'd have thought any of the suitably rated trolley jacks would do, provided you are jacking on the suspension not the body... Far more stable than a bottle jack, assuming that is what you have.
A selection:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110274 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110273 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110275 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110295
Bung "jack" into the search box for even more, depending on your definition of "shed loads of £££'s".
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Paul - xxx - 26 May 2006 10:10 GMT Jon came up with the following;:
> Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my > 2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > shed loads of £££'s. Any suggestions for a jack that doesnt need an > wooden extender block please!! Same as Mark S. Halfords often have a 2 ton jack on offer with axle stands for £20 ish .. I've had one for about 5 years now and can't find any real faults with it.
I would prefer to use a larger one if I were using it every day in a workshop situation, but as an occasional weekend thing and for roadside emergencies it's great. We have a Hi-lift too, but have only used that off-roading .. ;)
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Jon - 26 May 2006 12:06 GMT Ooops. forgot to say it is a trolly jack... just a small reaching 2T one.
My block of wood has lots of marks in it too.
I'll have a look at some of the links provided.
Thanks guys.
Jon
>Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my >2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >Thanks >Jon Ian Rawlings - 26 May 2006 13:43 GMT > Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my > 2T jack thats not tall enough. Tool sites are awash with cheap jacks that can handle the Defender. For about 5 years now I've had a Halfords 3-tonne long-reach jack that cost me less than £40 IIRC, it's been fine although the Pinzgauer stretches it, it's finally topped out for the first time at the end of its travel but managed to get the front wheels about 1cm off the ground when jacking off the bottom of the differential. It can get the Defender a good 20cm off the ground.
A good type of jack to get just for wheel changing is a bottle-jack with a curved bar of metal on top that fits around the axle of the landy, I've got one of these and it makes lifting wheels a breeze, and safer than a high-lift. They do cost though, up to £60 for a good one! On a dark, stormy night on the M6 with the truck being rocked by passing lorries, I'd have killed for one.
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Pantelis Giamarellos - 27 May 2006 08:34 GMT Ian Hi,
You can always find a secondhand one off a Discovery or RaRo Classic.
Remember the axles are the same on Defenders, Disco 1 and RaRo Classics and the hydraulic lift provided with the later two types of Landies is excellent.
Take care Pantelis
P.S. remember to also take the two long metallic handles for operating the jack.
> > Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my > > 2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > -- > Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire! Ian Rawlings - 27 May 2006 09:41 GMT > Ian Hi, > > You can always find a secondhand one off a Discovery or RaRo Classic. Indeed, although I'm always hesitant to use a second-hand one, I have one at the moment but it sinks slowly rather than holding the weight so always has to be used with axle stands. That's OK for use in the garage, but a PITA when just quickly changing a tyre.
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Pantelis Giamarellos - 31 May 2006 08:06 GMT Ian Hi,
I am sure you will be able to find a secondhand Disco or RaRo Classic hydraulic jack in VGC from any LR specialised scrapper/dismantler.
New one are available at any dealer but I believe they are far more expensive.
I am sure you have already tried turning the screw on the existing one more to the right be make sure it is fully locked so that the hydraulic pressure does not reduce (with the jack sinking down). The symptoms reveal a leaking seal though.
Take care Pantelis
> > Ian Hi, > > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > -- > Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire! Austin Shackles - 26 May 2006 14:06 GMT >Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my >2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >shed loads of £££'s. Any suggestions for a jack that doesnt need an >wooden extender block please!! high lift trolley jack, I'd go for, like
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110311&r=2047&g=107
for example, for normal purposes, or a jackall/hi-lift for off-roading, such as
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110800&r=2047&g=107
The latter, although very good at lifting, is utter crap at stability - you don't even want to be beside the vehicle, far less underneath. Of course, you shouldn't be underneath with *any* jack without a secondary support such as a stand or blocks or something, but if you have to, a good trolley jack is as good as anything.
I'm not in favour of the cheap "diy" ones.
if you're on a budget, this looks quite like the one I have here:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110280&r=2047&g=107
which is not so high lifting but cheaper.
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Derek - 26 May 2006 15:29 GMT >>Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my >>2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > > which is not so high lifting but cheaper. I'll go with Austin and add http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110275 which is perfectly adequate I've used mine on Rangie and now on the Disco but get decent set of axle stands what ever you buy before you work underneath one other thing if you buy one similar the silly carrying handle is a booby trap and liable to drop the jack on your foot if you are not vigilent. For roadside wheel changes put the other bottle jack away for other uses and buy a bigger truck bottle I use a 6 ton which has an adjustment ram screw to allow you to get the offload height up to the jacking point before you pump the jack up similar to http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110221 it physically a lot bigger than a two tonne and more stable a metal plate to stand it on is a good idea for uneven or softer ground or keep your thick block . Derek Disco 200 Tdi
beamendsltd - 26 May 2006 15:54 GMT > >Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my > >2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110800&r=2047&g=107 *How Much!!!!!!* - and that's a Jackall - which don't work properly.... we can do proper Hi Lift's for £55.50 inc VAT & delivery! Or 5ft ones for £59.17 inc VAT & delivery.
> The latter, although very good at lifting, is utter crap at stability - you > don't even want to be beside the vehicle, far less underneath. Of course, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > which is not so high lifting but cheaper. Sealy, Machinemart, etc etc all seem to be the same with different labels these days.
Richard
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Derek - 26 May 2006 16:54 GMT >> >Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my >> >2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > Richard I 've had a few tools with stick on labels and like you say they seem to be all from the same manufacturer s http://www.chenhetrading.com/ourproducts1.php?sort1=21&sort2=50 this would look to be one makes you wonder why we pay a premium for a brand when the same bloke is knocking them out on a bench somewhere in china. Derek
Jon - 26 May 2006 16:20 GMT >>Ok this is a really daft question but Im sick to the back teeth of my >>2T jack thats not tall enough. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >for example, for normal purposes, or a jackall/hi-lift for off-roading, such >as I like the look of this as the height is much better than my existing...
I guess if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing right so time to start saving!! Still its cheaper than some Ive seen elsewhere.
Think I'll get myself a couple more decent axle stands whilst Im on with it. Then I can get all corners in the air at once.
>http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110800&r=2047&g=107 Already got the genuine 4ft Hi-Lft for those just in case times when out playing...
>The latter, although very good at lifting, is utter crap at stability - you >don't even want to be beside the vehicle, far less underneath. Of course, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >which is not so high lifting but cheaper. Ian Rawlings - 26 May 2006 17:56 GMT > Think I'll get myself a couple more decent axle stands whilst Im on > with it. Then I can get all corners in the air at once. Hmm, personally I'd avoid four axle stands lifting the vehicle up, instead go for four wheel ramps, and put two with the slanted part of the ramp towards the rear of the vehicle, and the other two with the slanted part towards the front. With axle stands, if you bash the vehicle hard enough or grab it to pull yourself out from under it, it can topple off all four at once. Ramps can topple in one direction if they are all facing the same way (but still much more stable) but with them pointing in opposite directions then it's not going anywhere.
I've got some long-reach truck axle-stands, four tonnes tested each. They have wide bases and often don't need to be raised from their lowest setting to be used. I point the apexes of the bases in different directions too to make sure it's not unstable in one direction, as it would be if they all pointed in the same direction.
Err, yes I am paranoid about being crushed by a vehicle ;-)
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Richard Brookman - 26 May 2006 18:17 GMT || Hmm, personally I'd avoid four axle stands lifting the vehicle up, || instead go for four wheel ramps, and put two with the slanted part of [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] || || Err, yes I am paranoid about being crushed by a vehicle ;-) Just done a four-day First Aid course for work and learned about crush injuries - real eye-opener for me. If someone is crushed underneath a car or whatever, if you can lift the car and get them out straight away, do so. However, if they have been in the crush situation for over 10 minutes, doing that might be fatal. Apparently toxins can rapidly develop in the crush area and if the weight is removed these will be released to travel round the body and can make the casualty much worse. In these circs, wait for paramedics/ambulance.
I didn't know this, and I imagine not many do. My first reaction would be to get the weight off the casualty at all costs. Just a thort while on the subject.
Good advice on the ramps and stands, which I have mentally logged and will use next time I am going underneath.
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Austin Shackles - 29 May 2006 09:27 GMT >Just done a four-day First Aid course for work and learned about crush >injuries - real eye-opener for me. If someone is crushed underneath a car [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >to get the weight off the casualty at all costs. Just a thort while on the >subject. WTF do the paramdeics do with the toxins, then?
it depends on the situation, though, I'd have thought. It might be that waiting is just as fatal - depends on the extant and type of injuries. The only vehicle that ever fell on me just bruised me a bit, so I guess I was lucky.
meanwhile, before I go under a vehicle on stands I give it a good shake to make sure it *won't* fall over when I grab it or heave on a nut underneath.
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Richard Brookman - 29 May 2006 09:55 GMT || On or around Fri, 26 May 2006 18:17:46 +0100, "Richard Brookman" || <newsboy@nowhere.com> enlightened us thusly: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] || || WTF do the paramdeics do with the toxins, then? Dunno, but a lot more than you or I could! Seriously, I think it would involve a lot of backup and facilities for blood transfusions and all sorts before a quick dash to A&E and a spell in IC. The point is that the obvious thing (to remove the weight from the casualty) may well result in the death of said casualty unless expert medical advice is available. I thought it worth mentioning because (to me at least) it is totally counter-intuitive.
|| it depends on the situation, though, I'd have thought. It might be || that waiting is just as fatal - depends on the extant and type of || injuries. If the crushing weight is constant, the toxins are held in the injured area and not released into the bloodstream. The casualty can survive for long periods like this. It's the releasing of the crush that is the major risk - after, as I said, 10 or so minutes.
|| meanwhile, before I go under a vehicle on stands I give it a good || shake to make sure it *won't* fall over when I grab it or heave on a || nut underneath. Me too, especially if there are others around who might want to lean on the vehicle and have a smoke and a chat. :-)
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Austin Shackles - 29 May 2006 14:06 GMT >|| On or around Fri, 26 May 2006 18:17:46 +0100, "Richard Brookman" >|| <newsboy@nowhere.com> enlightened us thusly: [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >of said casualty unless expert medical advice is available. I thought it >worth mentioning because (to me at least) it is totally counter-intuitive. quite agree, and a good point. There must be a judgment call though - for example, you could get internal injuries that would gradually kill you irrespective of toxins. I guess if the victim remains conscious and breathing then leaving them well alone would be favourite.
It's like the one about motorcyclists and helmets. You run the risk of causing (more) spinal injury by removing a modern bike helmet and as such it's better if the paramedics do it. However if the chap's unconscious and not breathing, he's got about 4 minutes... under which circumstances the only thing you can realistically do is remove the helmet as carefully as possible so as to be able to resuscitate.
>If the crushing weight is constant, the toxins are held in the injured area >and not released into the bloodstream. The casualty can survive for long >periods like this. It's the releasing of the crush that is the major risk - >after, as I said, 10 or so minutes. yeah, good and useful info.
this is part of the problem with becoming a first aider, I reckon. That and the fact that these days if you do it wrong you're liable to get sued.
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Richard Brookman - 29 May 2006 14:15 GMT || It's like the one about motorcyclists and helmets. You run the risk || of causing (more) spinal injury by removing a modern bike helmet and [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] || remove the helmet as carefully as possible so as to be able to || resuscitate. Advice is that if the casualty isn't breathing, you remove the helmet in any case. If he ain't breathing, he's gonna die or suffer serious brain damage whatever. There are ways of removing the helmet (involving another person) that will mkinimise the possibility of spinal damage, however.
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Derek - 29 May 2006 18:26 GMT > || It's like the one about motorcyclists and helmets. You run the risk > || of causing (more) spinal injury by removing a modern bike helmet and [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > damage whatever. There are ways of removing the helmet (involving another > person) that will mkinimise the possibility of spinal damage, however. support the head to prevent movement while taking off the helmet and fashion a neck brace to immobolise it by folding a newspaper over and wrapping it round the victims neck-- however thats one after the first aid course and please god I don't want to find out if I was paying proper attention. Derek Disco 200TDi (ADR trained )
Richard Brookman - 29 May 2006 20:57 GMT || support the head to prevent movement while taking off the helmet || and fashion a neck brace to immobolise it by folding a newspaper [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] || Disco 200TDi || (ADR trained ) That's what I was told too - hence the assistance of another person! It's a lot to do with one hand if you are stemming a large bleed with the other. As you say, hope we never need it.
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