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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / May 2007Series III won't Idle
Have just obtained a very beaten up series III that has been on a farm for 20 years or so. Petrol 4 cylinder circa 1972. Was running on 3 cylinders and after redoing head was back to 4 cylinders (valve seats really poor but OK'ish now). Runs fine but dies if you back off the throttle too quickly at low revs (like less than 2000rpm). If you ease off very carefully it will hold and idle smoothly - well most of the time. Have played around with the carby jet settings (over full range) but makes no difference. Used to idle better when only running on 3 cylinders and bugger all compression due to leaky valves. Any ideas gratefully accepted. > Have just obtained a very beaten up series III that has been on a farm for > 20 years or so. Petrol 4 cylinder circa 1972. Was running on 3 cylinders and [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > bugger all compression due to leaky valves. > Any ideas gratefully accepted. I'd set the timing up from scratch, then have another go at the carb, possibly someones "tuned" it to run on three. Richard  Signaturewww.beamends-lrspares.co.uk sales@beamends-lrspares.co.uk I have become... comfortably numb after "warren mcpherson" wrote: >> Have just obtained a very beaten up series III that has been on a farm >> for [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > I'd set the timing up from scratch, then have another go at the carb, > possibly someones "tuned" it to run on three. Or it may be the normal Series 111 carb allowing petrol to bypass to the jet, making adjustment useless. I know you have to block the spare space that causes the problem but can't seem to find the old instructions...anyone? SignatureRegards Bob H 17mls W. of London.UK On Tuesday, in article <5c2t3jF2r7fmaU1@mid.individual.net> > after "warren mcpherson" wrote: > > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > that causes the problem but can't seem to find the old > instructions...anyone? A full carb overhaul kit is around a tenner, though new gaskets and O- ring around the carb throat may be enough. Lapping the joint between top and bottom may be the best answer. SignatureDavid G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger. On the horizon, a carrier task force of the Salvation Navy was turning into the wind, preparing to launch Zeppelins. Mine only idles when it wants to, I have to be ready to coax it at the traffic lights when it has a bad mood. A bugger to start as well when it has been left a few days. SignatureLarry Series 3 Rust and Holes > Have just obtained a very beaten up series III that has been on a farm for > 20 years or so. Petrol 4 cylinder circa 1972. Was running on 3 cylinders [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > bugger all compression due to leaky valves. > Any ideas gratefully accepted. Mine only idles when it wants to, I have to be ready to coax it at the traffic lights when it has a bad mood. A bugger to start as well when it has been left a few days. SignatureLarry Series 3 Rust and Holes > Have just obtained a very beaten up series III that has been on a farm for > 20 years or so. Petrol 4 cylinder circa 1972. Was running on 3 cylinders [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > bugger all compression due to leaky valves. > Any ideas gratefully accepted. Thanks everyone, I'll try the suggestions and report back to the group when I solve it. > Mine only idles when it wants to, I have to be ready to coax it at the > traffic lights when it has a bad mood. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >> bugger all compression due to leaky valves. >> Any ideas gratefully accepted. |
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