>While replacing a badly scored disc on the front of my TD5 Defender,
>it became apparent that the calipers were getting a bit stiff - I had
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Any suggestions as to who is the best supplier (it will need to be
>shipped out to me in France where I am for a while).
Depends on the condition of the iron parts. If the pad slots are OK and the
pipe unions and bleed nipples ditto, then it's possible to replace seals and
pistons, and if doing that, buying stainless pistons makes sense. However,
you can buy new britprat ones for about the same money and a good bit less
hassle.

Signature
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------\
>> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them.
a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
k.w - 29 Aug 2007 18:14 GMT
>>While replacing a badly scored disc on the front of my TD5 Defender,
>>it became apparent that the calipers were getting a bit stiff - I had
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> you can buy new britprat ones for about the same money and a good bit less
> hassle.
Think you also should check the brakehoses. The rubber inside can swallow up
after years,and block the hose. Then you also have difficulty trying to get
the calipers in. To check.... open up a beeding screw,and
if it's now easy to put the caliper in (brake fluid gets out !!), you've to
replace the hoses.
Kees
> Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
> ------------------------------------------------\
> >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them.
> a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
EMB - 29 Aug 2007 21:00 GMT
> Think you also should check the brakehoses. The rubber inside can swallow up
> after years,and block the hose. Then you also have difficulty trying to get
> the calipers in. To check.... open up a beeding screw,and
> if it's now easy to put the caliper in (brake fluid gets out !!), you've to
> replace the hoses.
You should *never* push the pistons back except by clamping the brake
hose and opening the bleed nipple. Failure to do this on an ABS
equipped vehicle pushes all the shite that tends to collect at the low
point of the braking system (ie the caliper) back through the ABS
equipment and often buggers it.
> While replacing a badly scored disc on the front of my TD5 Defender,
> it became apparent that the calipers were getting a bit stiff - I had
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> David
Paddocks at Matlock were selling stainless pistons at about the same price
as standard genuine, you could also get the seals from them. Pump out the
pistons most of the way by removing the pads first then pressing the brake
pedal until they touch the disc (keeping the reservoir full), then gently
clamp the flexible pipe with mole grips or a proper tool and remove caliper.
If you've already removed the caliper, you can pump out the pistons with a
grease gun with the end removed.
Martin