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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / November 2007series rear prop/handbrake questions
Just been out and done a bit of work on the 2a for the first time in a good 12 months. Have just stripped the handbrake drum off ready for fixing. Cant find my manual and have a few questions: what size are the nuts that hold the handbrake drum on? They aint quite 13mm, 14mm or 1/2 or 9/16ths so what are they? Can i buy a special spanner for the prop bolts that will actually fit or am i imagining seeing these in the past? Should there be a boot on the sliding joint on the rear prop? or are these things optional?. Worth fitting one while the prop is half off since it seems to flirt loads of grease everywhere under there? I'm trying to work out if there is wear in the handbrake backplate or in the adjuster/tensioning bit.. Should it fit tightly in the cutout in the backplate or should it have some up down movement? (so do i need to replace the backplate along with the tensioner bit which is definately knackered) Does the oil seal for the hub just press in or is there a retaining plate which levers off? (its hard to tell when its going dark and its all covered in oil and shite)! > Can i buy a special spanner for the prop bolts that will actually fit or > am i imagining seeing these in the past? Difflock sell these... http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/tools/lr_propshaft_tool.shtml But their shop is down at the moment.  SignatureMark 1996 90 300tdi 1987 RR V8 EFI 2007 Golf GT http://www.mozilla.com/firefox/ - Firefox Rules! http://fireftp.mozdev.org/ - FTP Plugin for Firefox http://ietab.mozdev.org/ - IE tab. Get Windows updates in Firefox >Just been out and done a bit of work on the 2a for the first time in a >good 12 months. Have just stripped the handbrake drum off ready for [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >what size are the nuts that hold the handbrake drum on? They aint quite >13mm, 14mm or 1/2 or 9/16ths so what are they? They're Whitworth. >Can i buy a special spanner for the prop bolts that will actually fit or >am i imagining seeing these in the past? 9/16th AF Cranked Ring spanner is ideal, or one of those propshaft tools, looks like an extension bar for 1/2" drive socket >Should there be a boot on the sliding joint on the rear prop? or are >these things optional?. Worth fitting one while the prop is half off >since it seems to flirt loads of grease everywhere under there? Optional on series, not a bad idea to fit one though >I'm trying to work out if there is wear in the handbrake backplate or in >the adjuster/tensioning bit.. Should it fit tightly in the cutout in the >backplate or should it have some up down movement? (so do i need to >replace the backplate along with the tensioner bit which is definately >knackered) Tensioner should move about slightly in the backplate, otherwise the shoes do not pull up evenly. It's held in with spring clips from behind the backplate. >Does the oil seal for the hub just press in or is there a retaining plate >which levers off? (its hard to tell when its going dark and its all >covered in oil and shite)! Hub? If you mean the oil seal behind the handbrake, there is a mud shield which comes out first, then the seal comes out/presses in If you actually mean a wheel hub, then the seal just levers out. Alex > >Just been out and done a bit of work on the 2a for the first time in a > >good 12 months. Have just stripped the handbrake drum off ready for [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > They're Whitworth. 1/4" Whitworth spanner size but actually 5/16" BSF (diameter and thread) > >Can i buy a special spanner for the prop bolts that will actually fit or > >am i imagining seeing these in the past? > > 9/16th AF Cranked Ring spanner is ideal, or one of those propshaft > tools, looks like an extension bar for 1/2" drive socket Depends how old is your S2. If the 9/16" cranked ring won't fit (isn't big enough) then they will be 5/16" Whitworth spanner size. > >Should there be a boot on the sliding joint on the rear prop? or are > >these things optional?. Worth fitting one while the prop is half off [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > shoes do not pull up evenly. It's held in with spring clips from > behind the backplate. If you need any of these clips, I can post you these as well (genuine parts). Martin >> They're Whitworth. > > 1/4" Whitworth spanner size but actually 5/16" BSF (diameter and thread) bugger. I dont have any whitworth stuff (bar a couple of crank pulley sized spanners mr D gave me). Grips it will have to be again unless i can find a family member with a spare whitworth spanner in the garage! >> >Can i buy a special spanner for the prop bolts that will actually fit >> >or am i imagining seeing these in the past? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Depends how old is your S2. If the 9/16" cranked ring won't fit (isn't > big enough) then they will be 5/16" Whitworth spanner size. its got a series 3 g/box prop and axle i think, so 9/16th sounds about right. did em with a 14mm spanner which was slipping a bit. I only have imperial sockets now, no imperial spanners bar a single 3/8ths one that does the boot catch on my saab (one of the only 2 non metric bolts on a saab!) >> >Should there be a boot on the sliding joint on the rear prop? or are >> >these things optional?. Worth fitting one while the prop is half off >> >since it seems to flirt loads of grease everywhere under there? >> >> Optional on series, not a bad idea to fit one though I cant remember if it used to have one but i pulled it off because it had ripped bar one end. Shall see if i can get a new one. Do you seperate the prop at the sliding joint to fit it? or does it stretch over the UJ? >> >I'm trying to work out if there is wear in the handbrake backplate or >> >in the adjuster/tensioning bit.. Should it fit tightly in the cutout [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > If you need any of these clips, I can post you these as well (genuine > parts). I need the tensioner too.. Mine had one spring clip which was not very springy and floating about in a very big slot which looks very worn (it pulls through the back plate when you put the handbrake on so i think is really worn away) >>>They're Whitworth. >> [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > sized spanners mr D gave me). Grips it will have to be again unless i can > find a family member with a spare whitworth spanner in the garage! As with all things Land Rover a word of caution ... unless the nut/bolt is near pristine condition/unchewed up and unrusted the 'correct' size is irrelevant. The right size is the one that fits tightly. > As with all things Land Rover a word of caution ... unless the nut/bolt > is near pristine condition/unchewed up and unrusted the 'correct' size > is irrelevant. The right size is the one that fits tightly. Yeah, I can usually find something to fit but had to ask about these as nothing i had would go on them properly. >> As with all things Land Rover a word of caution ... unless the nut/bolt >> is near pristine condition/unchewed up and unrusted the 'correct' size >> is irrelevant. The right size is the one that fits tightly. > >Yeah, I can usually find something to fit but had to ask about these as >nothing i had would go on them properly. Yes, it's one of those awkward sizes that nothing AF or metric will fit properly. Mind you, more than one of my landrovers has had these nuts replaced with UNF nuts tapped out to BSF thread, so I don't have to arse about finding the correct Whit spanner. Alex > >>>They're Whitworth. > >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > is near pristine condition/unchewed up and unrusted the 'correct' size > is irrelevant. The right size is the one that fits tightly. 1/4" Whitworth IS the correct size, just slightly bigger than 13mm. All series gearbox nuts and bolts are imperial sizes, no self respecting Landrover owner should be without a set. Martin >>> >Should there be a boot on the sliding joint on the rear prop? or are >>> >these things optional?. Worth fitting one while the prop is half off [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >Do you seperate the prop at the sliding joint to fit it? or does it >stretch over the UJ? You'll never stretch it over the UJ! Take it apart at the sliding joint. There is a threaded cap on end, which retains a felt washer, which is supposed to keep the grease in. Remember to note the position of the two halves of the prop so you can put them back in the same position. IIRC the series props don't have a keyed spline to stop you putting them back wrong. Propshaft gaiters are readily available. Should come with two jubilee clips to secure the ends. Should be tightened up when the prop is on the vehicle and axle in it's normal position. I would give you the part number for the prop gaiter, but thanks to Virgin's f.cking awfull broadband service I can't actually get to see any websites because it's two slow. Something to do with only about 40% of my packets actually getting somewhere. Alex > >>> >Should there be a boot on the sliding joint on the rear prop? or are > >>> >these things optional?. Worth fitting one while the prop is half off [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > of the two halves of the prop so you can put them back in the same > position. If you lose the position there are two arrows stamped on the surfaces to be aligned, one on the prop and the other next to the splines, easily found if you clean them well. IIRC the series props don't have a keyed spline to stop you > putting them back wrong. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > I would give you the part number for the prop gaiter......... Part number is 276484 unless it's been superceded but that will find it. Martin >> You'll never stretch it over the UJ! Take it apart at the sliding >> joint. There is a threaded cap on end, which retains a felt washer, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >aligned, one on the prop and the other next to the splines, easily found if >you clean them well. I've never managed to find any arrows stamped on mine! But then I often can't find the chassis number, or anything else under all the rust..... Alex > Part number is 276484 unless it's been superceded but that will find it. I don't usually deal in part numbers - I rely on the man behind the counter to know them and to find me what i want from the description ;) got a proper gaiter to go with my genuine handbrake actuator and my genuine oil seal :). Unfortunately they had run out of leather ones - but atleast it isnt a britpart one! > >> They're Whitworth. > > [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > pulls through the back plate when you put the handbrake on so i think is > really worn away) I can also find you a decent secondhand backplate, but not a new one. Don't understand what you mean by tensioner (adjuster maybe?), the only things under tension are the various springs. Martin |
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