Unlikely as they work in hazard mode...

hugh <hugh@[127.0.0.1]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Have you got a trailer board you can try in the trailer socket? It mak at
least let you know the switch is OK.

My money is on a fuse needing a clean up. It's been stood a while hasn't it?

Lee D

It sounds like your hazard switch:

The hazard switch wiring is horrible, as is the design of the switch
itself. Marge is on her third switch, as the earlier two disintegrated.
This one I haven't fully seated as it seems to be more reliable when it
isn't in the panel.

There is too much spring pressure for the plastic rocker components, and
it's made worse by the fact that the pivot itself needs a microscopic
amount of extra clearance in the panel than the apparent rectangle of
the switch body. I fitted one of those stainless laser-cut panels (from
eBay) a couple of years ago: it did for one of the switches, as the
cutout was very slightly too narrow at the pivot (i.e. rectangular!).
Solution (requiring a Round Tuit, naturally): notch the panel very
slightly either side (with a file or a Dremel) to improve the clearance
of the rocker pivot. It's not helped by the plastic used: like the dash
itself it depolymerizes with age + sunlight becoming brittle and prone
to crack. Combine this with a strong spring inside the switch...

From what I remember it's quite possible for the hazard function to work
with a blown fuse, as it's independent of the indicator function, BUT
the indicator circuits go through the hazard switch in normal operation.
I'm fairly certain you can "jumper" the loom plug on the back of the
hazard switch to test it (in other words bypass the hazard switch,
allowing you to check the indicators).

It ranks right up there for the "Doh!" wiring award, alongside the TD
glowplug arrangements (putting the glowplug current THROUGH the ignition
switch!).

I wouldn't bet on the hazard switch, but if your Landy is over a certain
age...

Regards,

Simonm.

Hi, Happy New Year,
                                 Thanks for all the suggestions. I've come
to the conclusion that the problem is probably in the switch itself, as I've
tried all the obvious things such as fuses and can't see anything wrong.
Anyone who knows my vehicle will know that it's a bit of a mix and match,
having started life as a 1985 110, but having been rebuilt from scratch
about 11 years ago using  a lot of Disco parts. This means that the switch
is the later version which incorporates the headlight flasher and horn.
Having already replaced the two of the switches on the column I'm planning
on taking a trip down the road to Craddocks tomorrow.

I have to say it's bloody frustrating having had the engine sorted only to
be grounded by a switch.
                                                           Cheers, John