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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / January 2008dent removal tips for a series rear tub
I had a slight run in with a tree (I was moving the landy and a load of wasps came out from my seat as i was trying to reverse park!) and have a dent in the rear corner of my series 2 which i would like to remove. piccy here: http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/landy/08-01-02%20dent/p1010013.jpg The tree wasnt vertical and it made contact roughly level with the lights on the rear of the truck (above the rear x-member) - putting a ripple in the side of the tub. and making the rest of the panel spring inwards below the rivet line. The rear panel is slightly curved but not seriously (you can see the gap at the top of body capping in the pic) Unfortunately its a right hefty ripple and it doesnt want to move if i just wallop it from the outside without removing anything.. Can any body suggest how i might best knock it back flat? Im not looking for a perfect job (its got dents in everywhere else already!) but i'd like to remove the worst of it and make it so that the panel will spring back flat as it is a good inch or 2 inwards at the bottom above the wheel. I was thinking that im likely going to have to remove some of the rivets so that I can get it flat again. Reckon i can get it back flat if i remove the end capping (plus the lights and the internal light cover), and just the rivet that is behind the ripple? - or will i need to remove move of the ones along the side forward of it too? or is there some other technique that might work? Tom Woods <tom@NOPSAMtomwoods.co.uk> uttered summat worrerz funny about: > I had a slight run in with a tree (I was moving the landy and a load > of wasps came out from my seat as i was trying to reverse park!) and [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Can any body suggest how i might best knock it back flat? I'm inclined to say hit it harder but I guess you've explored that option. Other options I would consider are drilling it.. having angle iron braces on the inside and an angle iron drilled and a series of bolts throught bolt it all up. Apply a small amount of heat to help anneal the ally/brimabright and tighten the bolts thus drawing it in on it's self. You will be left with a few holes mind but hey you can always fill them or bung grommets in. I prefer the hit it wivanammer mind... I have a BIG hammer here if you need a hand :-) Lee D > I'm inclined to say hit it harder but I guess you've explored that option. I'm quite proficient at ticking stuff with special tool no. 1, but my lump hammer is just bouncing off this ripple. Because of the way it has bent it seems really hard. > Other options I would consider are drilling it.. having angle iron braces on > the inside and an angle iron drilled and a series of bolts throught bolt it [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > You will be left with a few holes mind but hey you can always fill them or > bung grommets in. hadnt thought of that, but i'd prefer to not add any more holes if possible! ;) Think i may just go remove a load of the rivets and see if that helps. > I prefer the hit it wivanammer mind... I have a BIG hammer here if you need > a hand :-) If you are feeling frustrated and want to hit stuff then feel free to come give it a go ;) I've only got a small lump hammer and normal nailing ones. > I had a slight run in with a tree (I was moving the landy and a load of > wasps came out from my seat as i was trying to reverse park!) and have a > dent in the rear corner of my series 2 which i would like to remove. > > piccy here: > http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/landy/08-01-02%20dent/p1010013.jpg Call that a dent, that's just wear and tear! AJH >> I had a slight run in with a tree (I was moving the landy and a load of >> wasps came out from my seat as i was trying to reverse park!) and have a [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Call that a dent, that's just wear and tear! nah - wear and tear is the dents in the other panels! This is a crappy dent :( If this one just went just inwards it wouldnt be as bad but its annoying as it sticks out so far in one place and pushes the lower section of the side panel so far inwards in another. >>> I had a slight run in with a tree (I was moving the landy and a load >>> of wasps came out from my seat as i was trying to reverse park!) and [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > as it sticks out so far in one place and pushes the lower section of the > side panel so far inwards in another. I think that I'd be tempted to remove the vertical capping strip as it will hinder any attempts to straighten the ally. It looks as though you may have to do something at the top rear of the wheelbox under the crease. At the moment I'd guess that the crease will not flatten until that's sorted. Remove the ligts and any cover plate behind to give yourself room to work. Use gentle heat applied frequently as previously suggested. Try to use a softish mallet rather than a steel hammer where you possibly can. Don't just hammer onto air-backed metal: use some support behind where you're hitting. Then straighten the capping strip and refit. > >> I had a slight run in with a tree (I was moving the landy and a load of > >> wasps came out from my seat as i was trying to reverse park!) and have a [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > as it sticks out so far in one place and pushes the lower section of the > side panel so far inwards in another. Can't you get some pieces of wood across the front and back of the inside of the tub, then using blocks and something like a fencing stake with the sharp end in the corner under the lights and the other end on a high lift jack against the blocks to jack out the corner whilst hammering the dent high spots. That will probably work but any hammering on the ally will stretch the metal so don't do too much. It's got character now though, they look better with a few dents. :-) Martin > Can't you get some pieces of wood across the front and back of the inside of > the tub, then using blocks and something like a fencing stake with the sharp [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the metal so don't do too much. It's got character now though, they look > better with a few dents. :-) bracing it sounds sensible. Thinking about trying to brace it and then heat before hitting it, prior to removing any rivets. I agree that they look better with a few dents, but this one just looks like i reversed into a tree! ;) The dents everywhere else are much nicer! : http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/landy/oswestry/almost_stuck%20(Medium).jpg Tom Woods <tom@NOPSAMtomwoods.co.uk> uttered summat worrerz funny about: > bracing it sounds sensible. Thinking about trying to brace it and then > heat before hitting it, prior to removing any rivets. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > The dents everywhere else are much nicer! : > http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/landy/oswestry/almost_stuck%20(Medium).jpg Damn , now I'm getting IIa withdrawal symptoms! Lee D > Tom Woods <tom@NOPSAMtomwoods.co.uk> uttered summat worrerz funny about: > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Lee D It's hard not to :-). By the way I like your R/R3, looking for one like that if you know where there's another, prefer BMW diesel/auto. Martin Oily <martinhill100@nospambtconnect.com> uttered summat worrerz funny about: >> Tom Woods <tom@NOPSAMtomwoods.co.uk> uttered summat worrerz funny >> about: [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Martin I read that as , "Take me to your dealer!" ;-) http://www.lrc4x4.co.uk/details.php?id=143503 Lee D > Oily <martinhill100@nospambtconnect.com> uttered summat worrerz funny > about: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >>> > >>> The dents everywhere else are much nicer! : http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/landy/oswestry/almost_stuck%20(Medium).jpg > >> Damn , now I'm getting IIa withdrawal symptoms! > >> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Lee D Cheers for that Lee, dealers (Land Rover) up here have got my number and looking out. I thought you had bought it private and just wondered if someone on here was upgrading, worth a try. :-) Martin > Tom Woods <tom@NOPSAMtomwoods.co.uk> uttered summat worrerz funny about: > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Damn , now I'm getting IIa withdrawal symptoms! easy answer to that! ;) >> >> I had a slight run in with a tree (I was moving the landy and a load >> >> of [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Martin What Martin says but if you can't get a big jack in place a scissor jack with block of wood on braced against the chassisor innner tub might help before gently tw*tt*ng it with a big flat faced hammer. Derek > Can any body suggest how i might best knock it back flat? Im not looking > for a perfect job (its got dents in everywhere else already!) but i'd > like to remove the worst of it and make it so that the panel will spring > back flat as it is a good inch or 2 inwards at the bottom above the wheel. Anneal it, then get into it with a dolly on the outside and a shrinking hammer on the inside. Summat like this - http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DAGDT29 69&Category_Code=HT >> Can any body suggest how i might best knock it back flat? Im not >> looking for a perfect job (its got dents in everywhere else already!) [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Summat like this - > http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DAGDT29 69&Category_Code=HT Will heating it soften it up a lot then? That hammer looks very technical.. will i be able to just twat it back into shape using my butchering hammers if i warm it up first? > That hammer looks very technical.. will i be able to just twat it back > into shape using my butchering hammers if i warm it up first? Birmabright stretches like buggery when dented. You'll never get it back into shape by just pummeling it - you'll need some way to shrink the panel (ie a very technical hammer). >(ie a very technical hammer). Frosts sell 'em Tom. Steve > Anneal it, Annealing: Clean the metal you are going to work on, so its bright. Coat it lightly with a rubbed on layer of soap. Heat gently (blowlamp, not oxytorch) until the soap blackens. Alumnium is annealed. Steve >> Anneal it, > Annealing: [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Steve Does annealing it make it softer permenantly? Not sure i want to paint strip it :( > Does annealing it make it softer permenantly? Only until you've beaten three colours of crap out of it. Steve >> Does annealing it make it softer permenantly? >> > Only until you've beaten three colours of crap out of it. > > Steve have just read up on work hardening and annealing. Sounds like a plan. I like the soap thing - sounds much more my style than the special heat sensitive paint or special heat reactive crayons that the books i have found refer to! > I like the soap thing - sounds much more my style than the special heat > sensitive paint or special heat reactive crayons that the books i have > found refer to! Soap is also traditional, important for landrover work.... Did you see my Saturn V blowlamp :-)) First one I've had that generates serious thrust in use ! Steve Thanks all. Decided i was too tight to go buy a proper hammer so had a go at it today. Stripped all the lights and wires out, and heating it up did seam to soften it a bit so i could beat it out. Not sure i annealed it properly as I was too lazy to strip the paint first - but the dent did go after it was heated with some lump hammering against bits of wood. Its not ended up very smooth but instead of a very big ripple i now have a more manageble slightly lumpy/dented section (which matches the front wings), and the corner is now the right shape again. |
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