Evening all
The saga of the Green RR continues. I have abandoned solving the
rumbling/whining noises from the front end in favour of this (new) problem:
Idles OK-ish at about 750-800. As the engine speed increases it's
apparent that the engine is running less smoothly than usual, a sort of
'roughness about the edges'. As the speed increases the roughness
becomes more pronounced and can be felt through various attached items
e.g. transfer box selector. It reaches a peak at around 2,000 RPM, when
it could almost be described as a vibration, and then gradually decreases.
It feels a bit like a gentle - as in quiet - misfire.
I wondered if the ignition advance had died but Mr Gunson's Tachostrobe
indicates that there is some advance in the ignition timing as I rev the
engine. I'm not convinced that the vacuum advance is working cos I can
suck on the vacuum tube without effort. I was tempted to remove the
transparent cover from under the rotor arm to look at the vacuum
advance. Is it worth it?
Incidentally what should the timing be set to?
Also can I, if necessary, use the vacuum advance from a 1988 3.5 EFi RR?
TIA
Richard
Badger - 03 Jan 2008 21:05 GMT
> Evening all
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> transparent cover from under the rotor arm to look at the vacuum
> advance. Is it worth it?
Vacuum capsule is shot. Remove dizzy cap and try turning rotor arm by hand -
if it doesn't return ALL THE WAY under its own spring tension, your dizzy
needs to be overhauled. Vacuum capsule can be changed in-situ, awkward but
possible. Some are torx screws, earlier ones are phillips, knack is locating
the capsule over it's drive peg......
> Incidentally what should the timing be set to?
6 degrees before TDC, no vacuum.
> Also can I, if necessary, use the vacuum advance from a 1988 3.5 EFi RR?
Yes, no issues there. have a play with that one first to see what I mean re.
locating the capsule's operating lever over the peg on the baseplate.
Change the capsule before setting the timing.
Badger
Richard - 03 Jan 2008 22:52 GMT
> Vacuum capsule is shot. Remove dizzy cap and try turning rotor arm by hand -
> if it doesn't return ALL THE WAY under its own spring tension, your dizzy
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Badger
Thanks
I know that the vacuum capsule on the 3.5 is Torx screws 'cos I Loctited
them in last time they came loose ;-)
I'll have a tinker over the weekend.
As you will see in my reply to EMB I was slightly economical regarding
the story. Apologies etc, but I don't think it would influence your
thoughts - I hope.
Richard
EMB - 03 Jan 2008 21:29 GMT
> Evening all
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> e.g. transfer box selector. It reaches a peak at around 2,000 RPM, when
> it could almost be described as a vibration, and then gradually decreases.
I would suspect a worn cam lobe or two. A compression test is probably
in order.
Richard - 03 Jan 2008 22:48 GMT
> I would suspect a worn cam lobe or two. A compression test is probably
> in order.
Mm! What I neglected to mention in my haste to post the question was
that these symptoms appeared on the way to work about 2 weeks ago.
Having had a hopeful stare under the bonnet I noticed that the hose to
the fresh air flap vacuum reservoir had parted company at the reservoir
and the roughness did not continue when I left that evening.
If it is anything more than a very simple fix, this will hasten it's
disposal.
Any suggestions for a replacement? Must be capable of passing below a
1.87m height restriction.
Richard
Dom J - 10 Jan 2008 20:45 GMT
My RRC did this. Thought it was the loose dizzy, tighten it up and all was
fine until i used the windscreen washers. This annoying mis
fire/rumble/call it what you want came back. Found the cause in the
end....the pipe from washer bottle to Y junction was split and each time i
washed the windscreen it also washed the right hand side plugs as well!!!!.
Can't you make the height barriers taller Richard??!!
Dom
Richard - 13 Jan 2008 14:12 GMT
> My RRC did this. Thought it was the loose dizzy, tighten it up and all was
> fine until i used the windscreen washers. This annoying mis
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Dom
Morning Dom,
Dizzy tight and now fitted with working vacuum advance ex the blue RRC.
Interesting selection of plugs fitted, of which #6 was a balck as sin
and having no effect on the engine (possible Hurrah!). Top of pot 6
also black and perhaps oily, possibly fewer hurrahs. All other plugs
look fine, swopped #1 and #6 plugs and roughness has gone. Will peer
into pot 6 to see if the black has gone. If not, what do you suggest?
Redex or ignore it??
TTFN
Richard
Derek - 14 Jan 2008 22:44 GMT
>> My RRC did this. Thought it was the loose dizzy, tighten it up and all
>> was fine until i used the windscreen washers. This annoying mis
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> Richard
Check the lead resistance from inside the dizzy cap to the plug cap, carbon
filament HT leads are the devils gonads IMO just another thing to check and
discount as being the cause. I did check Peggy's ( EFi in the heady days
when I could afford <10mpg ) even a good set can give as much as 15%
varience in resistance between the shortest and longest lead I had one that
was closer to 30% higher
Derek
Dave Plowman (News) - 15 Jan 2008 00:19 GMT
> Check the lead resistance from inside the dizzy cap to the plug cap,
> carbon filament HT leads are the devils gonads IMO just another thing
> to check and discount as being the cause. I did check Peggy's ( EFi in
> the heady days when I could afford <10mpg ) even a good set can give as
> much as 15% varience in resistance between the shortest and longest
> lead I had one that was closer to 30% higher
These 'carbon string' leads have a resistance proportional to the length.
IIRC, about 10k ohms per foot. The total resistance including carbon brush
and king lead should be of the order of 30-50k.

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*Monday is an awful way to spend 1/7th of your life *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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Dave Plowman (News) - 03 Jan 2008 23:36 GMT
> The saga of the Green RR continues. I have abandoned solving the
> rumbling/whining noises from the front end in favour of this (new)
> problem:
> Idles OK-ish at about 750-800. As the engine speed increases it's
> apparent that the engine is running less smoothly than usual, a sort of
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> it could almost be described as a vibration, and then gradually
> decreases.
> It feels a bit like a gentle - as in quiet - misfire.
First thing I'd check is the plug leads. And also check their routing -
they can crossfire.

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*What do little birdies see when they get knocked unconscious? *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.