You only need to re-shim it if you are replacing the swivel bearings -
but only if its a certain type, and you dont need to remove the swivel
housing to remove the CV. I think the hole behind the stub axle is big
enough to get the CV joint though.

LR changed the design of the swivel form a normal bearing to a railko
type which i think do need shimms? Might be wrong. Hence the need for
the axle number, which is stamped on the top of it somewhere.

Anyway, the only tool i had to buy to replace pretty much everything in
my swivels was a hub nut spanner. Only a fiver, and makes life much
easier to undo the 52mm nuts.

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DISCOVERY_1/Axle/Hub_nut_spanner_-_for_use_with_
bar_-_front_axle_to_JA032850.html

This is a good guide i found after doing the job for stripping the
complete hub down.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601

Paddocks do a kit with new swivel bearings and all the gaskets you need.
 I got that and some one shot grease when i did mine.

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Axle/Swivel_Kit_-_no_ball_-_front_axle_
from_LA930456.html

Hope this helps

on the axle :-)  Might take some searching.  Unfortunately you can't
determine half-shaft type by VIN.

OK.  You don't need any new nuts unless they're buggered, you don't need the
lockwasher unless it's been used more than once (although they're only pence
to buy) - only 1/3 of it gets used to lock the 2 nuts, so you can find an
unused bit to bend over.

As Mark says, get the hub nut box spanner.  I don't recall needing any other
special tools.  

As for the bearings, shims are only needed if you're changing swivel
bearings.

Railco bush ones.  Railco bushes were fitted to series motors and to early
90/110, but NOT early rangie/disco.  I think I'm right in saying that Railco
bushes are fitted on ABS models only, on the top swivel bush - the ABS
sensor being mounted in the inner bearing pin which is bigger than the taper
roller kind.  Both sorts have shims so you need a representative sample of
shims if you are changing swivel bearings, otherwise, just recover the shims
and replace them.

Note that you don't have to get the swivel off to change just the
half-shaft.

If you do have a railco-fitted one it'd make sense to change them while
doing all the rest,unless they're known to be recent, as they do wear
eventually and it's the same amount of work to change the buggers if in 6
months time it fails the test on a dodgy swivel bearing.