>If you can lift the vehicle to a comfortable working height or you don't
>mind working on your knees and providing the finish on the chrome/teflon
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>If you remove the full axle end you can work on the bench in better
>conditions but with more work to do.
I thought the ABS ones had a railco bush at the top? Non-ABS ones are
taper-roller top and bottom, and the railco has a much bigger pin which is I
assume why they used it for the ABS, as it can be drilled without getting
too weak.
HBOL shows a mixture of pictures as you'd expect and silly comments like
"ABS version similar", but it does refer to "top bush" rather than "bearing
seat", and the sectional view shows 2 different arrangements, ABS with a
bush and non-ABS with taper roller top and bottom.
If so, you need the housing off to push the holder out and push the new one
in.
Oily - 27 Mar 2008 23:58 GMT
> >If you can lift the vehicle to a comfortable working height or you don't
> >mind working on your knees and providing the finish on the chrome/teflon
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> I thought the ABS ones had a railco bush at the top?
No, it's a steel backed brass or bronze bush and instead of having the
railko type material for a thrust pad it has a washer like cage with
radially arranged needle rollers with a hardened steel thrust washer either
side with the ABS sensor through the middle.
Martin
Non-ABS ones are
> taper-roller top and bottom, and the railco has a much bigger pin which is I
> assume why they used it for the ABS, as it can be drilled without getting
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> If so, you need the housing off to push the holder out and push the new one
> in.
Austin Shackles - 28 Mar 2008 09:21 GMT
>> >If you can lift the vehicle to a comfortable working height or you don't
>> >mind working on your knees and providing the finish on the chrome/teflon
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>radially arranged needle rollers with a hardened steel thrust washer either
>side with the ABS sensor through the middle.
Ah, OK. but I bet it's the same as a Railco to fit :-) I've done taper
roller swivel bearings in situ, I'd not fancy trying to do the bush housing
on the top of the 110's axle (early one with railcos) in situ.
Oily - 28 Mar 2008 11:24 GMT
"Austin Shackles" wrote............
> Ah, OK. but I bet it's the same as a Railco to fit :-)
Yes, but I can't remember if the top diameter is reduced slightly on one
side to miss the outer housing like the Railko is.
I've done taper
> roller swivel bearings in situ, I'd not fancy trying to do the bush housing
> on the top of the 110's axle (early one with railcos) in situ.
It's okay with hydraulic clamp and an bar and sleeve to support from
underneath.
A tip for 110" Railko's, One day I couldn't obtain a top bush for a 110"
but I had a couple of new Series Railko's. It takes only a couple of minutes
to turn off the bottom of the replaceable housing and you can easily press
out the actual non-ferrous bush without damage then fit it in the housing of
the 110" bush after breaking out the old material. They are the same size
bush and the price difference between a complete Series variety and a 110"
used to be about £26.00, the Series being the cheaper (about £7.00 as
opposed to about £33.00). Don't know if that still applies but it could do.
:-)
Martin