 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / May 2008Overheating and undercharging!
1990, 110 County with a 200TDi Overheating. Today I have been mainly changing my viscous fan! I'll need a run out to see if it has had any effect. Everything else seems OK, for example I was out yesterday in it with my 10' trailer with 12 railway sleepers and it was getting warm (but not overheating). We stopped at one point and the top and bottom hoses were both nice and hot, but the fan was very wobbly on its mountings. Anyway we'll see what happens on the next long run. Is there anyway of testing a viscous fan - is it like a thermostat, if I put it in a saucepan of boiling water, can I tell if it's "locked up"? Undercharging This has been worrying me for a while and whist my son had his 90 battery on charge I though I'd nick it to do some experiments! These are the results: --------------------------------------------------------------------- 110 Defender Battery All voltages measured across the battery terminals. Engine stopped No load - 12.44v Headlights (dip) - 12.12v Headlights (dip) + blower fan - 11.84v Engine running (tickover) No load - 12.67v Headlights (dip) - 12.61v Headlights (dip) + blower fan - 12.47v --------------------------------------------------------------------- 90 Defender Battery (in 110 Defender) All voltages measured across the battery terminals. Engine stopped No load - 13.04v Headlights (dip) - 12.40v Headlights (dip) + blower fan - 12.33v Engine running (tickover) No load - 13.00v Headlights (dip) - 12.70v Headlights (dip) + blower fan - 12.64v --------------------------------------------------------------------- Now the second battery is better (but then it has been on charge for the last 4 days!) I am concerned that the "on charge" volts are low in both cases. I assume the next set of measurements will be from the alternator. (I have checked the earth, that is OK). On a related subject, I have two batteries in the car, one is used in series to give me 24v for the Eberspacher heater. If I were to fit a 24v alternator, leave both batteries in series and charge them both when running, that won't cause a problem would it? Cheers Peter From memory with engine running on my V8 Disco, the voltage at battery terminals was 14v or there abouts and 12v with engine off. Looking at your figures i would say that the alternator aint charging. Dom > From memory with engine running on my V8 Disco, the voltage at battery > terminals was 14v or there abouts and 12v with engine off. Looking at > your figures i would say that the alternator aint charging. You might not get your 14v at tickover, try it at higher revs. TonyB >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >90 Defender Battery (in 110 Defender) [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >Headlights (dip) - 12.70v >Headlights (dip) + blower fan - 12.64v OK... I reckon it's not charging as Dom said. Does it light the nocharge light when you turn it on? If not, then could be wiring or alternator, if it does and the light goes out when started it's likely to be the alternator. Especially if the voltage doesn't increase with revs and nowt much on. I no "ignition" light, then it could be the bulb or wiring as well. I'm assuming the alternator belt is fitted and tight :-)  SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too! >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> 90 Defender Battery (in 110 Defender) [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > I'm assuming the alternator belt is fitted and tight :-) The charge light is on initially then goes out when the engine is started and stays out with no load. However as the load increases it will light very dimly. The alternator belt is tight (last time I checked), but I will check it tomorrow night. Thanks for all the suggestions. Cheers Peter > The charge light is on initially then goes out when the engine is > started and stays out with no load. However as the load increases it > will light very dimly. Sounds like a dead diode or 2 in the rectifier so it's alternator rebuild time. >> The charge light is on initially then goes out when the engine is >> started and stays out with no load. However as the load increases it >> will light very dimly. > >Sounds like a dead diode or 2 in the rectifier so it's alternator >rebuild time. yeah, rather classic symptoms. also it will charge a bit, hence it's not really showing quite "no charge" symptoms. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too! > >> The charge light is on initially then goes out when the engine is > >> started and stays out with no load. However as the load increases it [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > yeah, rather classic symptoms. also it will charge a bit, hence it's not > really showing quite "no charge" symptoms. Could also be a poor connection between the charging circuit and the battery, if the warning lamp is lit there is a potential difference across the bulb howsoever caused. Oily > 1990, 110 County with a 200TDi > [quoted text clipped - 63 lines] > > Peter You have the answer when the car is cold the fan should be almost free spinning after a run when is gets good an hot i.e. proper operating temperature- pretty stiff but I don't think solid. My own 200TDi D1 Kato was a bugger for the main fan belt slackening off and causing hotter than normal running and low charging ,possible it was belt related I went through 3 in 18 months until I got one that didn't slip. It was also a bit more difficult to bleed properly taking a couple of attempts to get and odd air out of the system that and about 2lb of mud and leaves in the radiator core didn't help- karcher it! Derek >> 1990, 110 County with a 200TDi >> [quoted text clipped - 74 lines] > radiator core didn't help- karcher it! > Derek Just had a horrible thought while you are about it check the crank pulley is on tight there is a bad habit folk have of not locktighting the bolt, after a bit it loosens and the pulley wobbles. The belt is liable to slip as it is never under proper tension I saw 2 when I was looking to buy then Kato's free'd off after a couple of months.I caught it before damage was done luckily! Derek > 1990, 110 County with a 200TDi > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Is there anyway of testing a viscous fan - is it like a thermostat, if I > put it in a saucepan of boiling water, can I tell if it's "locked up"? The best way is to do it on the vehicle. Obtain a carrot, start the engine. If the engine is cold, the carrot will stop the fan when you put into the blades. When the engine is hot it should take the end off the carrot. Alex >> 1990, 110 County with a 200TDi >> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >blades. When the engine is hot it should take the >end off the carrot. But note that they generally don't free off for the first few (anything up to about 30s) of running, even when cold. if you start it and rev it a bit you can normally hear it slow down. It'll not lock up again until it goes over normal temperature, if it's working correctly. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too! > The best way is to do it on the vehicle. Obtain a > carrot, start the engine. If the engine is cold, > the carrot will stop the fan when you put into the > blades. When the engine is hot it should take the > end off the carrot. A fairly large carrot mind, not those little tinned ones, and certainly not those little tinned ones still in their tin. SignatureBlast off and strike the evil Bydo empire! http://youtube.com/user/tarcus69 http://www.flickr.com/photos/tarcus/sets/ > > The best way is to do it on the vehicle. Obtain a > > carrot, start the engine. If the engine is cold, [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > -- > Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!http://youtube.com/user/tarcus69http://www.flickr.com/photos/tarcus/sets/ Is that what could have done in my last fan - I need to take the carrots out of the tin! Doh! I have another trip to collect sleepers with my trailer next weekend. I'll see what happens then. Cheers Peter In article <3f331935-5c5d-4b99-8e50-1e3cb98842f5@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com>, puffernutter <peter@puffer-nutter.co.uk> writes >> > The best way is to do it on the vehicle. Obtain a >> > carrot, start the engine. If the engine is cold, [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > >I have another trip to collect sleepers with my trailer next weekend. Nonononono! DO NOT TRY IT WITH SLEEPERS. You'll damage the rad with splinters. Regards, Simonm. Signaturesimonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/ >> > The best way is to do it on the vehicle. Obtain a >> > carrot, start the engine. If the engine is cold, [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >I have another trip to collect sleepers with my trailer next weekend. >I'll see what happens then. I actually got to check the fan cutting back in on the minibus today. Warm weather, up a long hill slow-in-second, it got warm enough to lock the fan back up, and it's quite audible, but only at more'n 2000-odd revs. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too! >> The best way is to do it on the vehicle. Obtain a >> carrot, start the engine. If the engine is cold, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >A fairly large carrot mind, not those little tinned ones, and >certainly not those little tinned ones still in their tin. :-) Made Oi Larf! Aside: that dreadful Bruce Willis thing (or something) with the helicopter flying down the tunnel chasing the train was on recently, and I caught the tail end of it whilst channel hopping (somewhere else!). You reminded me of it! Regards, Simonm. Signaturesimonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/ >>> The best way is to do it on the vehicle. Obtain a >>> carrot, start the engine. If the engine is cold, [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Simonm. sounds like the dire 'Mission Unbelieveable Too' to me ( you know what I mean ) take a class one TV series and ruin it in a movie I used to be amazed at the way they ( on TV) always did the impossible mission before the advert usually believeable(ish)bit like Macyver . Derek got Oi swiss army knife and land rover I arr off to save the world. > 1990, 110 County with a 200TDi > [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > 24v alternator, leave both batteries in series and charge them both when > running, that won't cause a problem would it? My 3.5 has a voltmeter built in which can give some weird readings on occasion. When you first start the engine it normally flicks up to around 14v then settles down to 13ish after a couple of minutes. I suspect this is what it's meant to do, but occasionally it'll be on 14v for most of the day, even when the car has been used for the same routine for a week or so. The 4.6 flashes up "ALTERNATOR FAULT" if I switch the ignition on and don't start the engine for 30 seconds or so, but I suspect that's probably just the BeCM being a bit nervous. SignaturePete M - OMF#9 Range Rover V8 Turbo Range Rover 4.6 HSE "Professional Petrolhead" |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.