>>>> Can you tell me where you put the second seal. The HBOL only shows
>>>> placement if one is used?
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> RichardB
> > Gents,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> >
> > Do I just need the inner one or do I need both?
> More ...
>
> There are two oil seals - one inboard of the inner bearing and one
> outboard of the outer bearing plus the paper gasket for the drive flange.
If you can find the axle number under the crud then you won't need to strip
it to the one/s you want.
Up to axle number 22S08283B only has one seal RTC3511 and the same hub nut
lockwasher as the series.
From axle number 22S08284B there are two seals as Dougal says, FRC8221 inner
and FRC8222 outer which runs on a special spacer (FRC8227) between the
bearing and the inner hub nut. This is similar to, if not the same, as the
early Disco with a flat on the lockwasher and stub axle.
The wheel bearings are the same for both types (RTC3429 which is superceded
to STC4382) but the stub axles are different.
If you can't find the axle number, you will only have to remove the hub
drive plate and the first hub nut as the type of lockwasher will tell you
which one it is. The one with the tag is the early one and the one with the
flat is the later.
HTH Martin
Dougal - 27 May 2008 23:30 GMT
>>>Gents,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> HTH Martin
Just a thought, Martin ... can you see enough of the end of the stub
axle to determine which version you've got? It'll save disturbing the
nut if you can.
Oily - 27 May 2008 23:41 GMT
> >>>Gents,
> >>>
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
> axle to determine which version you've got? It'll save disturbing the
> nut if you can.
Good thinking, I should have thought of that. Yes, of course you can see the
flat or groove whichever on the stub, no need to see the lockwasher as the
stub sticks out past the nuts. Old timer's disease, I'm losing it. :-)
Martin
RichardB - 28 May 2008 17:52 GMT
>> Just a thought, Martin ... can you see enough of the end of the stub
>> axle to determine which version you've got? It'll save disturbing the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Martin
So, If I have understood this story so far I
need to remove the Hub Driving Member /
Flange and I will be able to see the end of
the stub axle.
If it is flat I need the gear for two oil
seals if it is round I need one....Simple
when you know!
Really appreciate the help gents.
RichardB
Dougal - 28 May 2008 19:05 GMT
>>> Just a thought, Martin ... can you see enough of the end of the stub
>>> axle to determine which version you've got? It'll save disturbing the
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> RichardB
Thinking even more about it (look at the sectioned view that I sent you)
- if you have an outer seal it, too, will be visible with the drive
flange off.
The absence of the outer seal doesn't mean, of course, that it wasn't
made with one which was never been replaced on some later occasion!
RichardB - 28 May 2008 20:03 GMT
>> So, If I have understood this story so far I need to remove the Hub
>> Driving Member / Flange and I will be able to see the end of the stub
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> The absence of the outer seal doesn't mean, of course, that it wasn't
> made with one which was never been replaced on some later occasion!
I'll have a look for both the seal and the
type of stub axle - should be conclusive then
- in theory at least....
Have to be a good mechanic and not drip oil
all over the new drive when I get started!
RichardB
Oily - 29 May 2008 00:16 GMT
> >> Just a thought, Martin ... can you see enough of the end of the stub
> >> axle to determine which version you've got? It'll save disturbing the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> RichardB
I probably did not explain it right. If you look at the end of the stub axle
one has a section of thread missing as a chord on a circle (about one sixth
of the circumference) and the early type with only one seal has a notch cut
out about 1/4" wide in line with the axle just like the old Series 1,2 and 3
type. Can you make sense of that? :-) And if you remove the drive plate you
can see the outer seal on the later type with two.
The axle number is usually stamped towards the top of the case on the longer
section in numbers and letters about 1/2" high.
Martin
Mark Solesbury - 29 May 2008 09:23 GMT
> If you look at the end of the stub axle
> one has a section of thread missing as a chord on a circle (about one sixth
> of the circumference) and the early type with only one seal has a notch cut
> out about 1/4" wide in line with the axle just like the old Series 1,2 and 3
> type. Can you make sense of that? :-)
Like this -
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Axle/images/frc8002.jpg
Or this -
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Axle/images/217352.jpg

Signature
Mark
1996 90 300tdi
1987 RR V8 EFI
2007 Golf GT
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RichardB - 29 May 2008 10:23 GMT
>> If you look at the end of the stub axle
>> one has a section of thread missing as a chord on a circle (about one
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Or this -
> http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Axle/images/217352.jpg
Thanks for that Mark. I can see exactly what
is need now.
I'll have a look at the notch / grove as well
as the axle number.Life with a Land Rover
does get complicated sometimes. My problem is
that working from home I get itchy feet and
want to and do stuff instead of what I should
be doing....
RichardB
RichardB - 28 May 2008 17:34 GMT
>>> Gents,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> HTH Martin
Martin,
Good information thanks. Not likely to find
the number under the multiple layers of
waxoyl and the like. I will have a look
though. Any idea where on the axle I will
find it?
RichardB
>>>>> Can you tell me where you put the second seal. The HBOL only shows
>>>>> placement if one is used?
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>
> I'm mailing you a piece of the manual, Richard.
Dougal,
Many thanks for the Email. Just what I needed!
Just need the hub spanner to see what lurks
in my axle.
Richard