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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / October 2004

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Paint or oil

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Angus McDangle - 13 Oct 2004 19:49 GMT
Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90.  I have
cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
no rot).  I am in an ideal position to treat this chassis before I begin
bolting the bits back on.

Question: Would you simply WaxOil it, or would you paint it (Hammerite
style).  I have a friend who says the metal should breathe, so only oil it,
but another friend who swears by paint (10 year guarantee with Hammerite).
I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
and oiling it in later months/years????
Larry - 13 Oct 2004 20:02 GMT
Paint it, but don't forget it because the enemy is always vigilant :)

Me I have a light coating of rust at the moment on varios parts of the
chassis, until I get round to cleaning it off and painting it (the weather
not really being conducive at the moment) I think the worst thing in the
world is the kind of coating that just masks what is going on underneath and
I would far rather the surface rust than the invisible worm eating its way
from the inside out.

Signature

Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

> Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90.  I have
> cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
> and oiling it in later months/years????
Richard - 13 Oct 2004 20:29 GMT
paint with hammerite then waxoyl it

> Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90.  I
> have
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
> and oiling it in later months/years????
Bob Miller - 13 Oct 2004 21:59 GMT
> paint with hammerite then waxoyl it

I'm told the trouble with Hammerite on the chassis is that it doesn't flex
plus you need, at the very least, two coats - I prefer more.  Smoothrite did
a good job of the rear crossmember and bumper on mine, but a friend
Hammerited the chassis and did a good job, but it still didn't last.  POR-15
is supposed to be the mutts-nuts so I'm using that when I change the tank
this weekend.
Signature

Bob Miller
1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17

fanie - 14 Oct 2004 08:24 GMT
You are all wrong. While you have it stripped, get it off to the local
galvanizer and forget about any problems in future.

Regards
Stephen
Austin Shackles - 14 Oct 2004 10:25 GMT
>> paint with hammerite then waxoyl it
>>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>is supposed to be the mutts-nuts so I'm using that when I change the tank
>this weekend.

There's also that galvafroid stuff.  Painted ny rebuilt tow hitch with it,
not got around to putting any top coat on it yet.  seems OK so far...
Peter Sj?din - 14 Oct 2004 11:28 GMT
>> paint with hammerite then waxoyl it
>>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> is supposed to be the mutts-nuts so I'm using that when I change the tank
> this weekend.

You are right. Do not paint with a standard paint. Use a zinkprimer.

/Peter (with a rusty Disco)
Richard Savage - 13 Oct 2004 22:54 GMT
>Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90.  I have
>cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>  

Mate took some boat bits to a galvanising firm.  Was amused to see a rolling Citroen 2CV chassis being dipped.  Is that viable for your chassis?   I know that the inevitable attentions of the welder in later years will need caution but  . . .

Richard
Mr.Nice. - 14 Oct 2004 16:49 GMT
Twas Wed, 13 Oct 2004 19:49:59 +0100 when "Angus McDangle"
<nospam@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard producing:

>Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90.  I have
>cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
>and oiling it in later months/years????

If it's solid you can do no better (in my opinion) than galvanizing
it.
Second to that, there is some paint I've seen talked about that's used
to paint oil-rigs and such.

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Signature

_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
_________________________________________

Richard Savage - 14 Oct 2004 21:11 GMT
>If it's solid you can do no better (in my opinion) than galvanizing
>it.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
>  

Do you mean Galvafroid?  Soooo expensive it'll turn your politics red.  
But it's the mutts nuts.

And spray the interior with Dinitrol?

Richard
David Bexhall - 16 Oct 2004 16:53 GMT
> Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90.  I have
> cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
> and oiling it in later months/years????

My experience over several decades of trying to protect mild steel exposed
to the weather is that paint will always do a better job than oil.  I've
sometimes yielded to the temptation to use oil because it's quick, but you
always wind up painting it in the end. Clean off all rust back to bright
metal first.

Dave
 
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