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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / October 2004

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insulation

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Mr.Nice. - 16 Oct 2004 19:04 GMT
I'm off to scotland for some field-work in january and I'm expecting
cold weather.
I have a diesel 110 1984 vintage CSW which has the headlining with an
air-gap behind it.

is this air-gap reasonable insulator or would I be better filling the
gap with bubblewrap or something?

I also want to insulate the battery, how about balls or newspaper for
that?

your opinions ladies and gentlemen please.

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Signature

_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
_________________________________________

Steve Taylor - 16 Oct 2004 19:12 GMT
> how about balls

Thermal underpants ?
Lee_D - 16 Oct 2004 20:32 GMT
>> how about balls
>
> Thermal underpants ?

Get a Good battery and a Arctic heater. Or an Eberspacer heater off Ebay and
a second auxilary battery to run it. You'll be opening Windows and doors
because it's too hot. I mean.... who in there right mind would adjust the
thermostat.

When it's an Icey frosty morning It's the 101 I'd be in every time if only I
had him running on LPG. (Given the ratio of Icey frosty days to sunny ones
it could get expensive) That said the Ambi is very insulated so once it get
hot and the engines been running it stays warm for some time.

On a cheaper approach why not install some proper insulation glued to the
roof then covered with the liner. It doesn't take musch to increase creature
comforts in the way of carpet and door seals.

Last year I spent several hours trapped in my 88 doing only a few miles in
Stoke on Trent .... freshly painted so looked very cool... but had no door
seals...and no heater.... and the lack of draught around the 4.2 meant any
glimmer of heat was rising rather than comming my way....brrrrrr!!!

I was also running on choke too to keep the revs right (carbs were all
wrong) so the increased rpm meant that when in drive the rear wheels wanted
to go when the front ones were locking up... very entertaining!... bung him
in 4x4 and locked the fw hubs and normality prevailed..... Rather odd
listening to the rear wheels scrabbling for grip on inches of sheet ice
while the fronts resisted.. must have looked well odd to passers by :-)

er... I'm waffling....

Lee D
Alex - 17 Oct 2004 01:33 GMT
>>> how about balls
>>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>it could get expensive) That said the Ambi is very insulated so once it get
>hot and the engines been running it stays warm for some time.

Something that is a distinct disadvantage in the summer......

Mind you, there's nothing like sitting right next to a 3.5v8 at full
tilt for keeping you warm on even the coldest days. The 101 used to
get up to running temp a hell of a lot quicker than my series ever
does

Alex
Simon Barr - 19 Oct 2004 15:49 GMT
> Get a Good battery and a Arctic heater. Or an Eberspacer heater off Ebay and
> a second auxilary battery to run it. You'll be opening Windows and doors
> because it's too hot. I mean.... who in there right mind would adjust the
> thermostat.

If you can get one for a reasonable price go for an Eberspacher.  I've got
one in my 110, or at least I will when I put it back in.  I was able to use
it a bit last winter before I broke[1] it and they are the mutts nuts!!  They
warm up in no time at all and like Lee says, you need to open the windows
cos it gets too warm quite quickly.

It takes a good ten miles for the standard heater to chuck out nice hot air
and the Eberspacher is nice and toasty within a mile.

[1]
I've since found out how I 'broke' it.  The exhaust and air inlet apparently
need to be the same length or it won't run right.  Mine stopped working when
I trimmed the exhaust to remove a holed portion and all it did was produce
clouds of smoke.

Signature

                simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

AN6530 - 19 Oct 2004 17:23 GMT
>Subject: Re: insulation
>From: Simon Barr me@privacy.net
>Date: 19/10/2004 15:49 GMT

>If you can get one for a reasonable price go for an Eberspacher.<snip>

Yes they are excellent and have one myself. Their spare parts prices are mind
boggling though!

Steve. Suffolk.
remove 'knujon' to e-mail
Mr.Nice. - 20 Oct 2004 11:19 GMT
Twas 19 Oct 2004 16:23:00 GMT when an6530@aol.comknujon (AN6530) put
finger to keyboard producing:

>>Subject: Re: insulation
>>From: Simon Barr me@privacy.net
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>Steve. Suffolk.
>remove 'knujon' to e-mail

I've looked on ebay and found the prices way above my budget, if I was
living in somewhere like scotland I could justify it but for an annual
visit it's not worth it for me.... at the moment. I may change my mind
once there though.

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Signature

_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
_________________________________________

JD - 16 Oct 2004 21:23 GMT
> I'm off to scotland for some field-work in january and I'm expecting
> cold weather.
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
The airgap is a reasonable insulator, although it could be better. However,
your major heat loss will be the windows, so you will probably not notice
any improvements by better roof insulation.  I am basing this on the fact
that the roof lining of my 1986 110 remains reasonable even when parked in
the sun in 40C temperatures. It will, of course, be best to find and block
all the small air leaks.  I would also carpet or otherwise insulate the
bits that are totally uninsulated - if it is like mine, the carpet in the
rear is limited to the floor between the wheel boxes.
JD
Larry - 16 Oct 2004 22:18 GMT
I intend to insulate the rear of my station wagon so it will be more
comfortable to sleep in, but the driving compartment is somewhere where I
just put on more clothes and of course wear a hat.

One should really treat a landie as one might a motor cycle or open topped
car and dress appropriately.

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Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

> The airgap is a reasonable insulator, although it could be better. However,
> your major heat loss will be the windows, so you will probably not notice
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> rear is limited to the floor between the wheel boxes.
> JD
GbH - 17 Oct 2004 19:05 GMT
>> I'm off to scotland for some field-work in january and I'm expecting
>> cold weather.
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> to the floor between the wheel boxes.
> JD

Could always double glaze it! Sure be a challenge the next time one of those
tossers cold calls you.

Signature

UR SHGb02+14 &ICMFP
If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!

Derry Argue - 17 Oct 2004 09:33 GMT
> I'm off to scotland for some field-work in january and I'm
> expecting cold weather.
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Actually, if we get a nice cold January, it won't feel as cold
as it does now because dry air does not conduct the heat away
like damp air. A few degrees below zero and it feels warmer.

My 200 D90 with a truck cab heated up nice and quickly. The van
bodied D90 300 does get colder and I am planning to fit a
plywood partition.

I have lived in Scotland since 1964 and have never ever had to
insulate the battery, even with a recorded temperature of minus
26 a few miles up the road! Did I miss something? I've heard of
diesel freezing but never the battery.

If you are planning to sleep in the vehicle, some insulation
sounds like a good idea because your problem will be
condensation. All sorts of solutions here from spray on
insulation used in farm buildings to sheet materials. I was just
thinking of using 1" polystyrene sheeting with a plywood lining
for the 300Tdi van but hadn't thought it through yet.

Derry
"David G. Bell" - 17 Oct 2004 09:58 GMT
On 17 Oct, in article
    <Xns9585618338EB8derryadviegundogscou@130.133.1.4>

> > I'm off to scotland for some field-work in january and I'm
> > expecting cold weather.
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> thinking of using 1" polystyrene sheeting with a plywood lining
> for the 300Tdi van but hadn't thought it through yet.

I've seen carpet tiles suggested as the lining for a standard hardtop,
enough to stop condensation and drumming noises while being durable and
not too heavy.

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David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

Larry - 17 Oct 2004 10:40 GMT
There is some polyurethane foam stuff that is used to insulate trucks and
agricultural vehicles, I would like to know where I can get hold of some of
that to insulate the back, I intend to put in a fibreglass headlining
eventually, I guess I could put lof insulation beneath that :)

Anyway I was thinking of using carpet tiles as a make do in the back, so
long as they do not retain the damp.

Signature

Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

> On 17 Oct, in article
>      <Xns9585618338EB8derryadviegundogscou@130.133.1.4>
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
> enough to stop condensation and drumming noises while being durable and
> not too heavy.
PM - 17 Oct 2004 12:23 GMT
> There is some polyurethane foam stuff that is used to insulate trucks and
> agricultural vehicles, I would like to know where I can get hold of some of
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Anyway I was thinking of using carpet tiles as a make do in the back, so
> long as they do not retain the damp.

I used carpet cut into 9" square tiles in the top and doors on my 2a
and I was very pleased with it. I found acrylic adhesive more usable
than evostik as it allowed the tile to be slid into place.

Paul
Mr.Nice. - 18 Oct 2004 11:42 GMT
Twas 17 Oct 2004 08:33:07 GMT when Derry Argue
<derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk> put finger to keyboard producing:

>> I'm off to scotland for some field-work in january and I'm
>> expecting cold weather.
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
>
>Derry

The idea behind the battery insulation was to try and maintain it's
power for getting the vehicle started as the battery loses power in
colder weather, or so I've found.

I like the polystyrene sheets idea.

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Signature

_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
_________________________________________

Steve Taylor - 18 Oct 2004 13:20 GMT
> The idea behind the battery insulation was to try and maintain it's
> power for getting the vehicle started as the battery loses power in
> colder weather, or so I've found.

You're right, but it begs the question, how will you get the battery to
a nice temperature before you use it to crank your engine ? No realistic
insulation is going to keep a battery warm overnight, when it has two
whacking great copper heatsinks leaving the terminals.

Steve
Mr.Nice. - 18 Oct 2004 17:03 GMT
Twas Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:20:20 +0100 when Steve Taylor
<steve@thetaylorfamily.org.uk> put finger to keyboard producing:

>> The idea behind the battery insulation was to try and maintain it's
>> power for getting the vehicle started as the battery loses power in
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
>Steve

that there is a very fair point..

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Signature

_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
_________________________________________

Richard - 17 Oct 2004 12:28 GMT
We put carpet on the rear roof section of our 90. Have a look at:
http://www.richardsrovers.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/RebuildP6n.htm and yes I did
spray my daughters head the same colour!!!
Richard

> I'm off to scotland for some field-work in january and I'm expecting
> cold weather.
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Natalie Drest - 18 Oct 2004 16:04 GMT
> We put carpet on the rear roof section of our 90. Have a look at:
> http://www.richardsrovers.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/RebuildP6n.htm and yes I did
> spray my daughters head the same colour!!!
> Richard

Very creative use of painted housebrick for insulating the rear side-window.
Most impressive.

Signature

Please remove HAT and COAT before replying.
'Murphy is my co-pilot'

Richard - 18 Oct 2004 20:27 GMT
ah yes, thermal bricks! lol

>> We put carpet on the rear roof section of our 90. Have a look at:
>> http://www.richardsrovers.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/RebuildP6n.htm and yes I
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> side-window.
> Most impressive.
Larry - 18 Oct 2004 21:20 GMT
I have decided carpet tiles are a good idea, they are rather heavy though,
but that should work for sound deadening.

I am fixing them on the wheelarches at the back underneath my new
"furniture" I still intend to use loft insulation stuffed behind fibreglass
or chequerplate trim panels inside.

Some people do actually go for double glazing on camper conversions with the
proper acrylic caravan windows.

Whats the best stuff to stick the tiles down with ?

Signature

Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

> We put carpet on the rear roof section of our 90. Have a look at:
> http://www.richardsrovers.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/RebuildP6n.htm and yes I did
> spray my daughters head the same colour!!!
> Richard
Mother - 18 Oct 2004 22:47 GMT
>I have decided carpet tiles are a good idea, they are rather heavy though,
>but that should work for sound deadening.

Erm, do they make flame retardant carpet tiles?

>Some people do actually go for double glazing on camper conversions with the
>proper acrylic caravan windows.

Some of us buy 101 Ambulances which have double glazing as standard
:-)

>Whats the best stuff to stick the tiles down with ?

Something safe would be good - but otherwise spray on contact adhesive
like Evo.  Let both parts 'dry' then (carefully) stick them together.
You'll only get one shot at this.
 
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