the brakes saga...

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Mr.Nice. - 19 Oct 2004 18:00 GMT

I just speant around 4 hours fiddling with the rear brakers on my 110.
I got new shoes today as one site had uneven wear due to a spting
being put on wrong and was also contaminated with hydrolic fluid from
the cylinder, replace a week or so ago.

it seemed to take forever trying to adjust teh shoes right, I'm still
not happy with the right side as I think there is too much resistance
there with the brakes off, but I can still turn it by hand so I'll see
if it's better in a week.

But now my 110 stops like it's got anchors, I am a happy bunny.

Now to soak in the bath and read the workshop manual, I need to decide
if the timing belt is something I can do myself.

That reminds me, Dayco timing belts, are they ok or what? £7 something
from paddocks..

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

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_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
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R L Driver - 19 Oct 2004 19:49 GMT

> I just speant around 4 hours fiddling with the rear brakers on my 110.
> I got new shoes today as one site had uneven wear due to a spting
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

<snip>

Dayco"Isoran" belts were originally called Pirelli "Isoran" but probably
got bought up by the Septics and renamed, original equipment on Citroen
/Peugeot where they are given a service life of 72000 miles . A top quality
belt in my opinion . Glad the bleeder worked.
steve the grease

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Mr.Nice. - 20 Oct 2004 11:25 GMT

Twas Tue, 19 Oct 2004 18:49:32 GMT when "R L Driver"
<stevedottee@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard producing:

>> I just speant around 4 hours fiddling with the rear brakers on my 110.
>> I got new shoes today as one site had uneven wear due to a spting
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>belt in my opinion . Glad the bleeder worked.
>steve the grease

My new best friend that eezibleed :o)
I'll have a Dayco belt then without worry.

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Signature

_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
_________________________________________

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Tom Woods - 19 Oct 2004 21:06 GMT

>Now to soak in the bath and read the workshop manual, I need to decide
>if the timing belt is something I can do myself.

its a 2.5n/a isnt it?
If so then the timing belt isnt theoretically that hard, providing
that all the bits come off correctly and easily first!
When i did mine i had to deal with 2 snapped bolts, and a bottom
pulley that wouldnt budge (had to get it taken off with a heavy duty
air gun, and i think it took 2 or 3 of them to hold it still while 1
undid..)

If i were you, before you start anything check that you can crack off
the bottom pulley nut (or get someone else to do it for you). After
that it should be fairly easy. (its a 41mm iirc)

Also, make sure that you double check all the timing marks before you
put the cover back on over the belt!. Just for peace of mind!

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Mr.Nice. - 20 Oct 2004 11:21 GMT

Twas Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:06:01 +0100 when Tom Woods
<tomarse_@hotmail.com> put finger to keyboard producing:

>>Now to soak in the bath and read the workshop manual, I need to decide
>>if the timing belt is something I can do myself.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>Also, make sure that you double check all the timing marks before you
>put the cover back on over the belt!. Just for peace of mind!

Do I need any pullers for that job? or is it all unbolting stuff?

Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Signature

_________________________________________
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
_________________________________________

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Austin Shackles - 20 Oct 2004 19:38 GMT

>If i were you, before you start anything check that you can crack off
>the bottom pulley nut (or get someone else to do it for you). After
>that it should be fairly easy. (its a 41mm iirc)

The one on the 300 TDi cost me a new (stronger) swivel-handle for the big
go-away socket (27mm on the TDi)...

place socket securely and fully on nut. Turn engine 'til bar is about 1"
above chassis rail. check socket still firmly on.

turn engine on starter. handle hits chassis with almighty clang, and in the
case of the first one, flies in the air in 2 pieces.

The first attempt broke the old (less strong) handle. The second attempt
loosened the bolt. Note that lining it up with the handle already in
contact with the chassis didn't work... hence the 1" off, which gives it a
shock load.

it might be that the TD one ain't so tight, of course.

Later, I attempted to tighten it to the manufacturer's specs: tighten to
something like 60 ft-lb, then angle tighten 180 degrees. I think I got
about 120 degrees before it wasn;t possible to move it any further with the
newly purchased long (about 30") handle.

god knows how you get it tightened as much as they suggest. I reckon it'd
take a 3/4" drive socket and about a 4-ft long handle.

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