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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / November 2004Servicing 101s
Hello,once again. Have been away from the forum for some time, due to repeated computer failure (on number 3 now), harvest, new job, so on and so forth. Anyway, due to new job have more free time and (very slightly) more cash, so I thought I'd spend a bit of quality time with the 101. Ok so quality might not be the right word, esp since in the interim period the healthy starter motor has developed a terminal illness. Several quid lighter,appropriate cursing and hammer technique, and the problem is rectified. However,she is about due a service, and I've not done one on it before (only done a few hundred miles since having it). I recall being told by someone who claimed to be an authority on such things, that there is a particular way of doing it, else you drain the oil pump of oil and it won't re-charge itself. Is this right? What is the correct method of attack? Cheers Graham > I recall being told by someone who claimed >to be an authority on such things, that there is a particular way of doing >it, else you drain the oil pump of oil and it won't re-charge itself. Is >this right? What is the correct method of attack? Standard V8. Drain the sump. Prepare new *correct* filter. Stuff sump plug back in. Swear as old filter is greasy and refuses to move. Chain wrench, screwdriver through the side or whatever to remove it. 1/2 fill filter then spin it on. Fill sump. Turn the old gal over ... You don't want to have the oil filter off for too long as it will eventually drain the pump but a couple of minutes won't hurt. I like prefilling the filter to help things along. Some recommend refilling before swapping the filter - I don't think it makes any difference as all the new oil drains straight into the sump anyway but it may save a few minutes potential drain-time I suppose.  SignatureAndyG > Standard V8. > Drain the sump. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > makes any difference as all the new oil drains straight into the sump > anyway but it may save a few minutes potential drain-time I suppose. Cheers Andy, didn't think it ought to make much odds, but being as my expertise lies with diesel engines, I thought I'd better check. Will probably change one thing at a time as sean suggested, just to play safe. Had recalled the 'expert' telling me if I did it wrong I would need to pull the oil pump appart, hence my hesitation in doing the job, and the equiry. To be honest, I'm not sure it needs the oil changed, recon as with most landrovers its self changing. Seems to leak enough. Think I will have to add changing a few gaskets and seals to the list of jobs. That way I might slow the leaks down a bit. Currently there isn't a gasket or seal that doesn't leak i don't think. Graham recall being told by someone who claimed > to be an authority on such things, that there is a particular way of doing > it, else you drain the oil pump of oil and it won't re-charge itself. Is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Graham Graham Ther are differing opinions on this but I usually play safe by changing the oil and filter seperately, not at the same time. Reason is the pump can possibly drain down if you do them both together. If that happens you have to remove the pump cover and pack it with vaseline to prime it. When you change the filter, part fill it with oil first then spin the engine over with coil disconncted until light goes out. For further dicussion on this join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/101/ and do a search. Sean 73FL74 101GS 1984 110 2.5D Medway Military Vehicle Group www.mmvg.net "Sean Ryan" <sean101ryan@hotmail.com> wrote in message > Ther are differing opinions on this but I usually play safe by > changing the oil and filter seperately, not at the same time. Reason [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > oil first then spin the engine over with coil disconncted until light > goes out. Thanks Sean, did seam to recall him mentioning pulling the pump appart and packing it with vaseline, that would explain it. So which would you change first, the oil or the filter, or doesn't it matter? > For further dicussion on this join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/101/ > and do a search. Tried to join a while back, for whatever reason, my application was denied. Haven't bothered again. Graham >"Sean Ryan" <sean101ryan@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> Ther are differing opinions on this but I usually play safe by [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >Tried to join a while back, for whatever reason, my application was denied. >Haven't bothered again. Mostly, on V8s, I drain the oil, refit the plug, refill it with new oil, then change the filter. Before removing the old filter, while the oil's draining, I fill the new filter with oil, wait for a bit and top it up, wait a bit more and top it up etc., 'til it's full to about 3/4" from the top. I then take it and the filter wrench under the vehicle, unscrew the old one, and immediately put the new one on and tighten it. Never had troubles by this technique. Incidentally, reading the book of filters, I found that the (Champion) C102 (which is about the most common one in the world) is suitable for the V8 - it's slightly smaller in size than the standard RR/Disco, but the difference is minimal. Others that fit are the C145 (which is what's meant to be on it) and the C150. Same applies to the 300 TDi and probably the 200 TDi. The slightly different size makes no real odds, provided you change it regularly. > Mostly, on V8s, I drain the oil <snip> I'll do that, thanks. > Incidentally, reading the book of filters <snip> Its got a Fram PH8A on it, so I was going to stick with that...? Cheers Graham >> Mostly, on V8s, I drain the oil <snip> > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Its got a Fram PH8A on it, so I was going to stick with that...? I dunno what fram numbers are. Wotever the book says will be fine, no doubt. My local supplier stocks champion, so that's what it gets, and the alternative filter choices arise from the useless buggers not having the one that fits all the discos, most of the rangies and half of the ordinary landrovers in stock. |
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