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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / February 2005pre-load on swivels S3
Firstly I'd like to say thanks for all the advice on track rod ends. Very useful. I'm in the process of setting the pre-load on the front swivel balls. The workshop manual says to add or subtract shims ( which I have ordered ) from the top , however, there are shims at the bottom as well. It doesn't say how many or what thickness they should be or whether I should keep the same thickness top and bottom? I also have a hole in the top of the crossmember behind the Gbox on the chassis. Can I just cut a hole in the floor and weld or remove the floorpan complete? Thanks Paul 1972 S3 109 SW > I also have a hole in the top of the crossmember behind the Gbox on the > chassis. Can I just cut a hole in the floor and weld or remove the > floorpan > complete? http://www.lrproject.com/jlo/jloresto2/imagepages/image1.htm You can take the floor out if you drill out the rivets / spot welds depending on what yours has. We took this approach but didn't need to remove it all on Sis 109 as we were only replacing the rear crossmember. In cour case as we folder the floor upwards cuts had to be made in the floor braces to allow for the flex.. These can then be plated over at a later time once refitted with ally and rivets if you so desire. Lee D > http://www.lrproject.com/jlo/jloresto2/imagepages/image1.htm > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Lee D Thanks Lee, that helps a lot to see pictures. I can see I might be able to get away with a small patch but seeing underneath from on top ( if you see what I mean ) helps with preparation. Cheers Paul >Firstly I'd like to say thanks for all the advice on track rod ends. Very >useful. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >how many or what thickness they should be or whether I should keep the same >thickness top and bottom? No, you add shims at the top only. A swivel pin kit from Bermach already contains a set of shims, which should be sufficient. According to the manual you should start with 40thou of shims in it, and work up or down from there untill the correct pull of 12 to 14lb is obtained. (From the hole for the track rod, not the drag link) Note that it is 12-14lb to continue to move the swivel, not to get it to start to move. Also, don't do it with the swivel seal fitted. Alex > No, you add shims at the top only. A swivel pin kit from Bermach > already contains a set of shims, which should be sufficient. According [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Alex Thanks Alex, you'll have to forgive my ignorance, does that mean you start with 40 thou top and bottem and then only add or subtract from the top? Thanks Paul >> No, you add shims at the top only. A swivel pin kit from Bermach >> already contains a set of shims, which should be sufficient. According [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >Thanks Alex, you'll have to forgive my ignorance, does that mean you start >with 40 thou top and bottem and then only add or subtract from the top? No, just 40thou at the top. The adjustments are done at the top for practical reasons. 40 thou is just the reccomended starting point, you could need more or less. Alex <SNIP> > No, just 40thou at the top. The adjustments are done at the top for > practical reasons. 40 thou is just the reccomended starting point, you > could need more or less. > > Alex Thanks Alex. The old shims had been trashed by a previous owner. I put 40thou at the bottom and started at 40thou at the top. worked my way down on shims until the correct pre-load was reached. It's all OK now. Thanks Paul |
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