>RRC 2 door: There's a bolt (or pin) in front of each slider. Get those
>out and slide the seat out backwards. Reverse operation to get the other
>seats in.
>Can easily be done in under three minutes, if the bolts aren't rusted
>solid, that is.
>> RRC 2 door: There's a bolt (or pin) in front of each slider. Get
>> those out and slide the seat out backwards. Reverse operation to get
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>>
> There should a diagonal cross-brace at the back of the seat box that
This bit is missing on mine then...
> needs the top end released and pivoted down to get it out of the way
> as well ... and you'll probably need to remove the 'outboard' bit of
> box trim (if it's there) to get at the bolt head.
I forgot to mention my ruster doesn't have any trimmings (anymore). :-)
> One word of caution, three minutes is good ... as long as the bleedin
> seat clears the rear seat box - took me over half an hour once because
> one I stripped out was so tight.
Granted, maybe the carpets and sound-deadening materials in the rear
could be in the way, but surely it won't be much? Lifting the seat a bit
as when it clears the slider should do the job.
AJG - 26 Feb 2005 19:33 GMT
>> One word of caution, three minutes is good ... as long as the bleedin
>> seat clears the rear seat box - took me over half an hour once because
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>could be in the way, but surely it won't be much? Lifting the seat a bit
>as when it clears the slider should do the job.
No trim and what's sound deadening? :-)
Was just a pain, I assume the seat box was pushed back as far as it
would go when fitted. The seats normally have a smidgen of clearance so,
as you say, you sort of pivot them up off the rear set of runner-wheels,
this didn't. I used such phrases as 'I wasn't aware of the weight of
front seats' and 'My, this seat appears to not want to come out' ...

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AndyG