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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / April 2005

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New Land Rover

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Dave - 27 Apr 2005 12:42 GMT
Ok, I've bought a Land Rover Defender 110 (1998) 300 TDi (3 door estate
as the insurance company keep on describing as!) with 59K miles on the
clock. I've fulfilled the childhood dream! Its absolutely standard with
no accessories on it (except a towbar). I pick it up on Friday and
currently I'm like child waiting for Christmas...

Now to maintain my new toy in "perfect" running order what things
should I be doing to it e.g. waxoiling things / painting stuff /
checking stuff etc etc.

What about fuel / oil treatments are these worth it?

What are the essential mods I should be thinking about, I've penciled
in rear wheel hanger as I don't want to bust the rear door and I don't
want the spare on the bonnet.

Other questions:
Did the front swivels come with one shot grease at this age?
What mileage should I change oils for maintaining and extending the
life of the vehicle. What are the best oils for doing this?

I think I've covered everything now but I'm sure I'll have more
questions soon. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
David
Mark Solesbury - 27 Apr 2005 12:47 GMT
well done!

> Ok, I've bought a Land Rover Defender 110 (1998) 300 TDi (3 door estate
> as the insurance company keep on describing as!) with 59K miles on the
> clock. I've fulfilled the childhood dream! Its absolutely standard with
> no accessories on it (except a towbar). I pick it up on Friday and
> currently I'm like child waiting for Christmas...
MVP - 27 Apr 2005 14:10 GMT
>Ok, I've bought a Land Rover Defender 110 (1998) 300 TDi (3 door estate
>as the insurance company keep on describing as!) with 59K miles on the
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>Cheers
>David

first thing I always do with a new one is change all the fluids,
everything. though I'm not sure about the swivels and one-shot, if it
has some in then great, I suppose you can tell by opening the drain
plug, if you get wet it's ep 90, if it's thicker like runny grease
then it's one-shot then put the drain plug back in sharpish.

Difflock.com do some interesting synthetic (I think) gear oils longer
life/quieter running etc, not tried any myself.

Oil treatments, some people swear by them, some people swear about
them. but most people agree that you should use something high quality
(SPI etc) and the correct viscosity as in the manual I use millers
oils myself for engines.

Fuel treatment, a good dose of injector cleaner annualy is a good idea
in my opinion.

oil, fuel and air filters too.

Also change the cam belt if you can't be sure when that was done and
the aux belts too if they look at all worn (might as well eh).

check the levels of the battery. tyre pressures, bulbs (I always fit
osram silver star headlamp bulbs).

I'd fill-up with diesel and a heavy heavy dose of injector cleaner and
take it for a good hard drive.]

As for chassis treatment, you could go for waxoyl but I'd have it done
by someone who knows their stuff, my new disco (10 year old ish) will
likely be going to see www.before-n-after.co.uk for their waxoyl
treatment (it's a pain in the arse job and I'd rather pay my money and
have a pro do it properly).

Get yourself a Haynes Manual and if you can find one a LR owners
workshop manual, they'll tell you all you need to know, most notably
how much of what kind of fluids go where and when. (amazon/ebay).
There may be some info for you on one of my websites www.4x4info.info

spare wheel carriers:
a review of 6 in LRO magazine rated the Mantec 2-SA50/A (£214.67) and
the Scorpion Racing RWCHL (£205.62) as the best of the bunch (the
latter also has bits for mounting a hi-lift jack).
I've never tried nor used either myself.

Regards.
Mark.
Signature

_________________________________________
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
www.4x4info.info
www.mvp-fine-art.co.uk
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
charity calendar project -
http://www.4x4info.info/calendar/
_________________________________________

Hirsty's - 27 Apr 2005 15:50 GMT
Check if it needs a Cam belt modification to  prevent early failure of the
belt; personally I'd change the belt as a matter of course anyway  ~ £ 200
indipendant if you don't do it yourself. All round pads check, fluids change
as a matter of course ( axles, diff, gearbox etc.  ? not sure of this for
yours depends on use and abuse before ). Use best spec fluids, make sure you
get correct tyre pressure for oddball size tyres.

Millers oils and diesel additive.

> Ok, I've bought a Land Rover Defender 110 (1998) 300 TDi (3 door estate
> as the insurance company keep on describing as!) with 59K miles on the
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> Cheers
> David
Dave - 27 Apr 2005 17:20 GMT
I think I'm doing ok with this bit, the cam belt is being changed
before I take it and I insisted all the fluids were changed before I
collect and it's given a full major service. I get a 6 month "warrenty"
as well, but its one of them out sourced jobs that covers everything
but "that bit sir..."

Whats the best tyre pressure for motorway driving in them? I've got a
little 4x4 kit car think and its a bit bouncy with the recommended tyre
pressures so I up them a bit for "high speed" driving

I'll put some diesel additive in it on Friday I think when I put a full
tank of fuel in it... Gulp... any idea how much that might cost at 86p
a litre?
Dave - 27 Apr 2005 17:26 GMT
One thought. Did they never fix the cam belt problem on the later TDi,
similar to the introduction of the transfer gear oiling type device
(precise huh...) Or am I being optimisitic
Austin Shackles - 27 Apr 2005 18:40 GMT
>One thought. Did they never fix the cam belt problem on the later TDi,
>similar to the introduction of the transfer gear oiling type device
>(precise huh...) Or am I being optimisitic

It's rumoured that the later ones are better.  The various mods got
incorporated in the build of the engine, I think.

what year was yours again?

Signature

Austin Shackles.  www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk  my opinions are just that
"Festina Lente" (Hasten slowly)  Suetonius (c.70-c.140) Augustus, 25

Austin Shackles - 27 Apr 2005 18:40 GMT
> I get a 6 month "warrenty"
>as well, but its one of them out sourced jobs that covers everything
>but "that bit sir..."

I hope you didn't pay more for it?  Waste of money, them things - I was daft
enough to buy one on a car once; extra 150 quid on the price and when you
read the small print, there are that many get-outs that I doubt it's
actually possible to claim anything from it.

>Whats the best tyre pressure for motorway driving in them? I've got a
>little 4x4 kit car think and its a bit bouncy with the recommended tyre
>pressures so I up them a bit for "high speed" driving

I used to run about 32-34 all round in the 110, but that had bog fat tyres
(31x10.5R15).  With normal tyres, I expect something a few pounds higher if
anything.  Don't be fooled by the manual saying 28 in the front ones - IME,
with 110 and disco (the latter both diesel and petrol) is that the only
advantage in this is a marginally softer ride - the tyres wear unevenly and
it creates more drag, though.

recently-replaced front tyres on my disco had been run at 36, and wore just
about as evenly as any I've seen on an LR vehicle.

Signature

Austin Shackles.  www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk  my opinions are just that
"Festina Lente" (Hasten slowly)  Suetonius (c.70-c.140) Augustus, 25

MVP - 27 Apr 2005 20:39 GMT
>> I get a 6 month "warrenty"
>>as well, but its one of them out sourced jobs that covers everything
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>recently-replaced front tyres on my disco had been run at 36, and wore just
>about as evenly as any I've seen on an LR vehicle.

35-40 in my 110 with 750r16's on

Regards.
Mark.
Signature

_________________________________________
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
(3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
www.4x4info.info
www.mvp-fine-art.co.uk
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
charity calendar project -
http://www.4x4info.info/calendar/
_________________________________________

TonyB - 27 Apr 2005 20:22 GMT
> I think I'm doing ok with this bit, the cam belt is being changed
> before I take it and I insisted all the fluids were changed before I
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> tank of fuel in it... Gulp... any idea how much that might cost at 86p
> a litre?

86? It's 96 in some parts of Norfolk! Costs me about 50 squids for the
average fill up but I don't run to completely empty.
BTW don't forget to grease yer nipples occasionally. ( On the propshafts
that is)
TonyB
Austin Shackles - 27 Apr 2005 22:37 GMT
>> I'll put some diesel additive in it on Friday I think when I put a full
>> tank of fuel in it... Gulp... any idea how much that might cost at 86p
>> a litre?

tank holds something close to 90 litres...

>86? It's 96 in some parts of Norfolk! Costs me about 50 squids for the
>average fill up but I don't run to completely empty.

about 92 here.

Signature

Austin Shackles.  www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk  my opinions are just that
"Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose"
Alphonse Karr (1808 - 1890) Les Guêpes, Jan 1849

Simon Barr - 28 Apr 2005 16:00 GMT
> 86? It's 96 in some parts of Norfolk! Costs me about 50 squids for the
> average fill up but I don't run to completely empty.
> BTW don't forget to grease yer nipples occasionally. ( On the propshafts
> that is)
> TonyB

I'm coming up your way camping this weekend.

I'll fill up before I come!!

Signature

                simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

 
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