 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / June 2005Headlights
Hello All. I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version 75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.  Signature- Compliments John N Oakes Manchester, England. ============================= ! Nightshift Morlock Worker! ! Landrover 110 V8 1988 ! ! Atari/Win/Mac User ! ============================= > Hello All. > I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker > rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version > 75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice > headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping. The fuse is rated to protect the cable so don't uprate the fuse or you run the risk of burned out cables and maybe a fire. If the lights are dimming or flickering on tickover then check the alternator/dynamo belt tension. If your vehicle (you don't say what it is) is fitted with a dynamo then I'd expect tat to happen anyway. HTH SignatureRegards Steve G SteveG <"s.goodfellow"@blueyonder dot> wrote: >> Hello All. >> I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > HTH Hello Steve. My 110 v8 1988 headlight problem all check okay. Would dipping affect be a sign of the slackness in the belt tension of alternator. Signature- Compliments John N Oakes Manchester, England. ============================= ! Nightshift Morlock Worker! ! Landrover 110 V8 1988 ! ! Atari/Win/Mac User ! ============================= > SteveG <"s.goodfellow"@blueyonder dot> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > dipping affect be a sign of the slackness in the belt tension of > alternator. It could be an indication that all is well. If the alternator is demanding more power from the engine than the engine can provide at idling speed and the belt does not slip it will 'pull the engine down'. Full beam and an idling engine are not a common combination so not much to worry about. Increase your idling speed a bit if it concerns you. > Hello Steve. > My 110 v8 1988 headlight problem all check okay. Would > dipping affect be a sign of the slackness in the belt tension of > alternator. I agree with Dougal - just forgot to include that thought in my original response. There's probably nothing wrong at all. As a peace of mind check I'd measure the charging current at idle with dipped beam on and as long as that is positive (i.e. the battery is still getting a charge) then I'd be happy. SignatureRegards Steve G I upgraded my headlamps (never realised what piss poor efforts them sealed beams was before) however with regards to fuses I hold the original wiring system in utter contempt and have bypassed the original fusebox with an alternative using blade fuses (and if the insurance world don't like it they can go F themselves ((if they have the agilitity)) .....) SignatureLarry Series 3 rust and holes > Hello All. > I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker > rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version > 75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice > headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping. > I upgraded my headlamps (never realised what piss poor efforts them sealed > beams was before) however with regards to fuses I hold the original wiring [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > (and if the insurance world don't like it they can go F themselves ((if they > have the agilitity)) .....) It isn't the insurance you want to be really worried about. It is your RIDE catching fire if your positive wire melts to the body and you short your stuff to the body. Even with a minor oil leak or radiator leak, it blossoms to a blaze fit for huge steaks. In any oportunity, the circuitry will protect the fuse by catching fire. You upgrade the headlamps, check the wiring afterwards by touching it or seeing if the insulation is melting. If it is warming up, then get yourself a wiring harness from Tiawan and let it take the load off by handling the load. In my 96 D1, I got the wiring harness and H4 voltage boosters with 55/60 H4s and it looks like I running 90/110 watts. I can see the grain on the pavement at night and it isn't so glarey that it is dangerous. Check out ebay and look for ntk as a vendor. He sells decent harnesses that drop in after a hour and a wee bit of sweat (glow to you girlie men). Adam in NYC Really it is not as if I have never had smoke coming out of a dashboard before and not even on a land rover. I have not increased the wattage merely replaced the sealed beam units with halogen bulbs. In any case I have an alternative fusebox to the original (more for an insurance company to worry about) and I carry a fire extinguisher within easy reach (ought to get an insurance discount for that even if it is a non standard fitting) I replace my wiring on an as needed basis, eventually I will get round to fitting relays, because the weak point in the system is actually the dip switch as my last one burnt out eventually and that was before I had replaced the headlamps. SignatureLarry Series 3 rust and holes > It isn't the insurance you want to be really worried about. It is your > RIDE catching fire if your positive wire melts to the body and you short [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Adam in NYC > Really it is not as if I have never had smoke coming out of a dashboard > before and not even on a land rover. I have not increased the wattage merely > replaced the sealed beam units with halogen bulbs. In any case I have an > alternative fusebox to the original (more for an insurance company to worry > about) and I carry a fire extinguisher within easy reach (ought to get an > insurance discount for that even if it is a non standard fitting) I wish you well on your upgrades and may they hold up in the middle of Africa. Don't forget to look at that book about taking care of Land Rovers awhile in Africa and make sure you have a few replacement fuses and bulbs carefully packed away so they will survive the trip. By the way, the fire extingusher works best when there is someone behind it who knows how to use it. If you are chowing down after a long night driving in the bush, you might not notice the fumes from burning wiring until it is too late. Get a fire extinguisher that will handle gas oil and electrical fires and won't leave a mess afterwards. Most will leave a terrible mess that you won't be able to recover, like those cheap dry chemical ones. > I replace my wiring on an as needed basis, eventually I will get round to > fitting relays, because the weak point in the system is actually the dip > switch as my last one burnt out eventually and that was before I had > replaced the headlamps. If this is your life line, you might want to buy all new wiring so you don't have to worry about it when things get interesting. Adam >Get a fire extinguisher that will handle gas oil and electrical fires >and won't leave a mess afterwards. Most will leave a terrible mess that >you won't be able to recover, like those cheap dry chemical ones. Mind, not sure which ones you're allowed, now. Halon gas used to be favourite, but they've outlawed that, AFAICT. Dunno if you can still have CO2 ones. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that "Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in Boswell's "Johnson". > Mind, not sure which ones you're allowed, now. Halon gas used to be > favourite, but they've outlawed that, AFAICT. Dunno if you can still have > CO2 ones. Ours at work are 50:50 powder and C02, so C02 must be legal. Steve >> Mind, not sure which ones you're allowed, now. Halon gas used to be >> favourite, but they've outlawed that, AFAICT. Dunno if you can still [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Steve Thank you Steve. Here in the US, I think they use a ABCD code so read carefully. If they are available in Africa, then buy them there so you wont have a problem transporting pressured containers on an aircraft. However, you can try to get water cans (they are the soda powered fire extingushers or the ones that you pump full of air ans then discharge) and ship them empty until you hit the road over there. Then you let everything dry after the BBQ. Nothing like a little prior prep before the trip and triple check your wiring, like a boy scout.(grin). Adam (another boy scout, 96 D1 w/100k, one fire extingusher on board, and I work for FDNY) Hi, I suspect your wiring will cope with 100 watts, so no problem with simply putting th eheadlights straight in. I had problems with wiring 150w spotlights into a Discovery and had to use a relay in the end to stop wires melting, but that was a combined 300 watts which is fairly meaty. If you have any doubts about your wring put in a cheap relay form Halfords, about 12 pounds. You will not blow any fuses, however, if you do simply put the next step fuse in. If running 10, then put a 15 in. I really cannot see any problems though. I suspect the headlights goign dull on idling has more to do with your alternator and I suspect you need to upgrade it to a higher output. Yours Andrew P.S. Still trying to get my 110 ready for Africa in six months time. You should try wiring in , banks of rear and front spotlights, fridge, GPS, three cigarette lighters and interior lights. > Hello All. > I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker rusting > screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version 75/50w. > Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice > headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping. >Hi, > >I suspect your wiring will cope with 100 watts, so no problem with simply >putting th eheadlights straight in. The 110 headlight switch carries all the headlamp current and is marginal. Running 60+55 on mine caused it to overheat and fail - note that if you run a trailer with side marker lamps all that is running through the switch too. If as I read it you've replaced your 2x60W beams with 2x75W, then I doubt that's enough to overload it. Putting spots on as well might. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that "Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in Boswell's "Johnson". >>Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > If as I read it you've replaced your 2x60W beams with 2x75W, then I doubt > that's enough to overload it. Putting spots on as well might. Hello Austin. Yes just a straight change over huh straight with a small very small s. I was thinking of putting spots on but thought sod it. Thank for the reassurance everyone. ;) Signature- Compliments John N Oakes Manchester, England. ============================= ! Nightshift Morlock Worker! ! Landrover 110 V8 1988 ! ! Atari/Win/Mac User ! ============================= > three cigarette lighters ... Smoke a lot do we? I think I'd use almost any other high current conector in preferance to ciggy lighters. 'orrible things work as lighters even when used for just a power connection... SignatureCheers new5pam@howhill.com Dave. pam is missing e-mail > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > You will not blow any fuses, however, if you do simply put the next step > fuse in. If running 10, then put a 15 in. SG: And if the wiring is designed to handle a maximum of 10A and you're actually drawing 14 what will prevent the wiring loom from burning out ... and maybe setting the car on fire? The fuse protects the wiring NOT the load. Jeez I hate amateur electricians. > I really cannot see any problems though. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > should try wiring in , banks of rear and front spotlights, fridge, GPS, > three cigarette lighters and interior lights. SG: Oh well, at least you'll be miles away when it all catches fire 'cos you've used the wrong rated fuses ;-) |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.