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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / August 2005RR P38 Shake
I decided a few weeks ago to replace the worn/soft suspension bush's So all duly replaced. I used Super Pro polyurethane except the panhard rods which I used genuine. Leaking shocks were replaced with oil replacements(Armstrong, would I have been better off with gas?) I've had the tracking & all wheels balanced. The whole car now shakes violently at 60+ mph. Smallest of bumps sets if off. I've gone through steering with fine tooth comb & can find no play anywhere. A new steering damper was also tried. As well as adjusting steering box I'm fast running out of idea's As well as getting earache from swmbo when she takes it out The oscillation seems to start on front off side, slowly at 1st them getting progressively more violent. It only disappears when speed drops to 40ish Any advice would be much appreciated. Gerry. How old are the tyres? Much tread left? Sounds like a suspect balance or oddly worn tyres. Were they rotated during the balance? > I decided a few weeks ago to replace the worn/soft suspension bush's > So all duly replaced. I used Super Pro polyurethane except the panhard rods [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Gerry. > I decided a few weeks ago to replace the worn/soft suspension bush's > So all duly replaced. I used Super Pro polyurethane except the panhard [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Gerry. Probably nothing to do with what you've done. Have you checked the UJ's in the prop shafts? If the vehicle has been sitting a while and they are dry, they could have got some rust on them. That was what happened to me. And the speeds match. There's a web site somewhere with a check list of things that might cause vibration in a LR but I'm afraid I've lost the URL. Google might know. Derry >> I decided a few weeks ago to replace the worn/soft suspension bush's >> So all duly replaced. I used Super Pro polyurethane except the panhard [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > Derry I have had similar problems and tried the same things eventually changing the discs has got rid of most of the wobble and vibration although there is still a vagueness to the steering that I would like to clear up ! > I have had similar problems and tried the same things eventually changing > the discs has got rid of most of the wobble and vibration although there > is still a vagueness to the steering that I would like to clear up ! I've got rid of this one on a Classic shap rangie by adjusting the steering box. It's now the same feel as our Disco .. felt before like we had too easier a job of the steering, never out of control , just as though there were no reistance at all. Lee D >>>>> "Gerry" == Gerry <gedbishop@REMOVESPAMnetscape.net> writes: Gerry> I've gone through steering with fine tooth comb & can find Gerry> no play anywhere. A new steering damper was also tried. As Gerry> well as adjusting steering box Are you sure everything is tightened up after the bushes were replaced? Wehn you say "adjusting steering box", do you mean increasing the pre-load. The first time I did this, I didn't get it tight enough - a small allen key is no good, you need to do it with a 5mm hex drive on a socket. Gerry> I'm fast running out of idea's As well as getting earache Gerry> from swmbo when she takes it out Tell her to drive her own car, then :-) Gerry> The oscillation seems to start on front off side, slowly at Gerry> 1st them getting progressively more violent. It only Gerry> disappears when speed drops to 40ish Does it start purely on speed, or does it only start when you brake? It sounds like you've covered the obvious. I notice one poster suggested looking at the propshaft, which would be my next bet. I'd also check the diff is running smoothly - wear on the front diff was a contributory factor to the vibrations I was getting. Andy  SignatureAndy Cunningham -- www.vehicle-diagnostics.co.uk Every year laws are passed to insure that these same adults survive to raise another generation with the same characteristics of cluelessness. -- Paul Tomko And if the boom-boxes and car stereos weren't so damnably loud, you'd be able to hear the high-pitched hum: Darwin spinning at 20000 RPM on Timken roller bearings in a chamber evacuated to 1E-27 Torr. -- Mike Andrews Thanks chaps, Looks like this weekend is going to be busy on the floor again! >>>>>> "Gerry" == Gerry <gedbishop@REMOVESPAMnetscape.net> writes: > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > tight enough - a small allen key is no good, you need to do it with a > 5mm hex drive on a socket. I'll double check everything is tight, I did torque everthing up as per service manual I've only used a 5mm hex key, I'll try giving it a bit more > Gerry> I'm fast running out of idea's As well as getting earache > Gerry> from swmbo when she takes it out [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Does it start purely on speed, or does it only start when you brake? It only starts at speed, nothing todo with brakes, disc's were replaced last year. A reasonable sized bump sets it off, it gets worse then until you slow down, (saving a fortune on fuel mind) > It sounds like you've covered the obvious. I notice one poster > suggested looking at the propshaft, which would be my next bet. I'd > also check the diff is running smoothly - wear on the front diff was a > contributory factor to the vibrations I was getting. > > Andy >Thanks chaps, > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >A reasonable sized bump sets it off, it gets worse then until you slow down, >(saving a fortune on fuel mind) 'tis a fact that my 110 used to do that with a shagged steering damper, but you've done that. You haven't mentioned swivel bearings in all this - I understand that incorrect swivel preload can cause shakes. If you had 'em apart in doing the bushes (not that likely) then were they put back right? final thought: I assume from the original posting that this problem happened after you replaced the bushes? If so, possibly one or more bushes are not right in some way? Might be worth a check for silly stuff like the tube inside the bush being the wrong length, or something. SignatureAustin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Soon shall thy arm, unconquered steam! afar Drag the slow barge, or drive the rapid car; Or on wide-waving wings expanded bear the flying chariot through the field of air.- Erasmus Darwin (1731-1802) >>>>> "Gerry" == Gerry <gedbishop@REMOVESPAMnetscape.net> writes: Gerry> It only starts at speed, nothing todo with brakes, disc's Gerry> were replaced last year. A reasonable sized bump sets it Gerry> off, it gets worse then until you slow down, (saving a Gerry> fortune on fuel mind) The P38A does "dump steer". An acquantaince of me says that this is due to the differing lengths of the track rod and drag link, and has modified the geometry to fix this. I haven't had chance to look at the details of what he's done. Having said that, I don't think this would fix your underlying problem; which does sound like the steering could be tighter. Andy SignatureAndy Cunningham -- www.vehicle-diagnostics.co.uk I'm not one of those who think Bill Gates is the devil. I simply suspect that if Microsoft ever met up with the devil, it wouldn't need an interpreter. -- Nick Petreley |
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