Push-button doors: rustproofing & painting

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SpamTrapSeeSig - 16 Nov 2005 13:48 GMT

After a bit of hassle with carriers, Marge is getting an early Christmas
present: a new pair of doors.

They've arrived in some sort of yellow spray covering on the aly part
and green-black on the steel frame. Now obviously I want to stop them
rusting in future, and do the best paint job I can, so what's the best
thing to do first, given I've plenty of time to sort it?

I was thinking of three options:

1. Galvafroid poured through the frame. It certainly works on bare
metal, but I've no idea what the inside ofthe frame is like, so it may
not take.

2. Waxoyl in the frame. It'll repel water for a while, but it's messy
and IMHO not so good at penetrating

3. Synthaproof/underseal: very smelly, but good water resistance and it
does penetrate well. Disadvantage: hard to paint over if it gets in the
wrong places.

Other question: is the yellow covering merely protective and temporary,
or is it some sort of undercoat? If it's temporary, what's the best
thing to clean down with first (assuming I need an etch primer
underneath). I'm using NATO camo paint on top, as that matches what's on
there now.

Yes, I will go look at Stephen Hull's excellent painting advice site
too, and no, I probably can't run to Tekaloid (but I have got an HVLP
spraying kit to hand).

Any thoughts appreciated...

Regards,

Simonm.

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Stephen Hull - 16 Nov 2005 20:52 GMT

>After a bit of hassle with carriers, Marge is getting an early Christmas
>present: a new pair of doors.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>rusting in future, and do the best paint job I can, so what's the best
>thing to do first, given I've plenty of time to sort it?

The yellow (on aluminium) is an acid etch primer, (or should be).
The greenish black (on steel) will be a factory primer that usually
requires repainting.

>I was thinking of three options:
>
>1. Galvafroid poured through the frame. It certainly works on bare
>metal, but I've no idea what the inside of the frame is like, so it
>may not take.

This method may not reach all areas, Galvafroid is heavy stuff and
doesn't penetrate too well into crevices, seams etc.

>2. Waxoyl in the frame. It'll repel water for a while, but it's messy
>and IMHO not so good at penetrating

Use waxoyl *after* painting.

>3. Synthaproof/underseal: very smelly, but good water resistance and it
>does penetrate well. Disadvantage: hard to paint over if it gets in the
>wrong places.

You can't guarantee underseal will reach all the inner areas either.

>Other question: is the yellow covering merely protective and temporary,
>or is it some sort of undercoat? If it's temporary, what's the best
>thing to clean down with first (assuming I need an etch primer
>underneath). I'm using NATO camo paint on top, as that matches what's on
>there now.

Try wiping over with a pre-wipe or panel-wipe which is a spirit so it
won't damage any paintwork, but will remove all forms of contamination.

>Yes, I will go look at Stephen Hull's excellent painting advice site
>too, and no, I probably can't run to Tekaloid (but I have got an HVLP
>spraying kit to hand).

I've not really covered HVLP spraying, but I do intend to feature it.

When I replaced my series 2 door tops I literally poured synthetic
primer into the frames and tipped them in different directions to make
sure the paint had covered everywhere, after a few days I poured in an
undercoat mix 50-50 with gloss to ensure added protection.
I left the door tops for a week before fitting the window channels and
glass.

Any paint that ran out the seams was simply wiped off with thinners.
Then the interior and exteriors of the doors can be painted in whatever
paint you like, synthetic, cellulose etc.
When all the paintwork is completed, for maximun protection waxoyl the
inner channels.

I'm not saying this is the best proven method, but it is an option.

Steve.

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SpamTrapSeeSig - 17 Nov 2005 18:32 GMT

[sage advice snipped merely for brevity]

>I've not really covered HVLP spraying, but I do intend to feature it.
>
>When I replaced my series 2 door tops I literally poured synthetic
>primer into the frames

That makes complete sense, except for one thing: I'm not sure what you
mean by 'synthetic' primer. Is that alkyd or something else?

> and tipped them in different directions to make
>sure the paint had covered everywhere, after a few days I poured in an
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>I'm not saying this is the best proven method, but it is an option.

Sounds really good - will pursue it. The acid-etch primer is interesting
(I think that is indeed what it is), as it sticks really well to the
aluminium, but peels off the painted steel very easily. It's been
sprayed around the edge of the door - I guess because of the folding
over, and the stuff on the steel is overspray from that.

Many thanks for the thoughts.

Regards,

Simonm.

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Stephen Hull - 17 Nov 2005 18:53 GMT

>[sage advice snipped merely for brevity]
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>That makes complete sense, except for one thing: I'm not sure what you
>mean by 'synthetic' primer. Is that alkyd or something else?

Synthetic is oil-based paint, Linseed oil, Alkyd, Polyurethane
etc that can be thinned with turpentine, white spirit.

>>I'm not saying this is the best proven method, but it is an option.
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>Simonm.

Regards,

Steve.

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SpamTrapSeeSig - 17 Nov 2005 20:23 GMT

>>That makes complete sense, except for one thing: I'm not sure what you
>>mean by 'synthetic' primer. Is that alkyd or something else?
>>
>Synthetic is oil-based paint, Linseed oil, Alkyd, Polyurethane
>etc that can be thinned with turpentine, white spirit.

Got you now. Sounds like a good idea and I've a number of possible
alternatives to use too.

Many thanks for the advice.

Regards,

Simonm.

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