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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / November 2005Bleeding Nipples - is there a gizmo
OK - dumb question to start the weekend: Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums) and I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of swing on a spanner). Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and close the nipple while still keeping the tube on it? The only other thing I can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the hole in the back of the socket, or failing that can you put a longer nipple on it, and if so what is the thread?  SignatureMTIA Bob Miller 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83 1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17 > OK - dumb question to start the weekend: > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83 > 1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17 'Spose a ring spanner won't fit? TonyB > > Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums) and > > I've noticed that the front calliper brake nipple is conveniently hidden > > between two bolt heads (just to make it impossible to get any sort of > swing > > on a spanner). > 'Spose a ring spanner won't fit? > TonyB You'd probably get one on but only 12th of a turn at a time - not ideal for opening and closing the amount that you need for bleeding, or am I being pessimistic? SignatureBob Miller 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83 1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17 >>> Got to bleed the brake system this weekend (1990 110 with rear drums) > and [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > opening and closing the amount that you need for bleeding, or am I being > pessimistic? I don't think you need a lot of slackening to bleed off, once you've cracked the seal. If you can fit them, longer bleed nipples do exist. Steve > You'd probably get one on but only 12th of a turn at a time - not ideal for > opening and closing the amount that you need for bleeding, or am I being > pessimistic? You only need to move it a little bit for bleeding. Use a six sided deep, close fitting socket for initial loosening to reduce the likelyhood of shearing it, then put a spanner on it for opening and closing during bleeding. I normally don't even use the spanner while bleeding, I stick a Gunsons easibleed on it, a bit of tight fitting clear hose on the nipple and I just turn the pipe which is tight enough on the nipple to open and close it, then I use the socket for the final nip back up. Regards William MacLeod >> Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and >> close the nipple while still keeping the tube on it? The only other thing [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >nipple >> on it, and if so what is the thread? One way, but involves the 'destruction' of a socket" get a long reach one and use a disk cutter to carefully make a slot in it for the bleed pipe to emerge from the side: Pipe Socket \ \ | | \ \ | | \ \| | \ \ | \ \ | \ \ | \ \| || || Obviously, ASCII art has its limitations! The slot goes to the bottom, so you can apply it over the already-fitted pipe. Plan B would be a box spanner modified in a similar way. I'd use a socket in preference, as the finished item is likely to be stronger and you can use a swivel or universal joint on it to make operation easier. I hate doing brakes, and found a pressure-bleed system to be the biz (uses air from the spare tyre to force fluid through via the reservoir). It's still easier as a two-man job though, and I used a trailer tyre instead of the spare for the air supply, as that's easier to manipulate. If the above isn't it, hope it sparks-off some ideas. Regards, Simonm. Signaturesimonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/ Ouch !! are you sure you are in the right NG :) SignatureLarry Series 3 rust and holes > OK - dumb question to start the weekend: > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > nipple > on it, and if so what is the thread? deep offset ring spanner? something like http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm Derek The only other thing > > I > > can think of is a socket and pump pliers with the tube coming out of the > > hole in the back of the socket, Socket and mole grips might leave a hand free too. TonyB >deep offset ring spanner? something like >http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm You can slot these too with a grinder... Regards, Simonm. (now worried he's getting obsessed with slicing up tools!) Signaturesimonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/ >> deep offset ring spanner? something like >> http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Simonm. (now worried he's getting obsessed with slicing up tools!) I must be missing something here! Why slot a ring spanner for bleeding purposes - just pass the bleed tube through the ring. The same is true for a socket - don't use the square drive to turn it, weld/braze a handle off the side. >>> deep offset ring spanner? something like >>> http://www.hti-tools.com/RingSpanners.htm [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >I must be missing something here! Why slot a ring spanner for bleeding >purposes - just pass the bleed tube through the ring. You're right of course (and I do it too!) - brain overheat. Once it's over the pipe you can reposition it at will. Not so if you can't get a spanner into the space and have to use a deep socket tho... Regards, Simonm. Signaturesimonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/ > Is there any sort of gizmo that enables you to open and close the > nipple while still keeping the tube on it? One of the "easibleed" systems? One way valve in the tube allows the fluid out but not air in. You might get a *little* drawn in around the threads but you don't need to open the nipple much just break the seal really. What little air may have got drawn it gets expelled on the next push and you do the nipple up with the pedal down or going down anyway. SignatureCheers new5pam@howhill.com Dave. pam is missing e-mail So if I'd looked a bit more carefully I'd have spotted that the split brake system is front-back, rather than diagonal as it's been on other cars I've had. As I was only changing a rear cylinder I didn't need to do the fronts so the problem was academic (and don't the brakes feel good now!). However thanks for all the replies - I think I'm going to marmalise a deep socket to weld a handle on it, and then I'll be ready when I do have to do the fronts. Many thanks again SignatureBob Miller 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83 1967 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17 > OK - dumb question to start the weekend: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > hole in the back of the socket, or failing that can you put a longer nipple > on it, and if so what is the thread? |
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