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Car Forum / Land Rover Cars / January 2006

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snapped drain plug - series motor

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Jon - 15 Jan 2006 21:09 GMT
I've managed to snap the drain plug (the one above the starter motor) on my
2.25 petrol.  It appears to be cast iron.  It's in a right mess and has to
come out .  Whats the best metod of doing this?
Thanks,
Jon
Steve - 15 Jan 2006 23:47 GMT
> I've managed to snap the drain plug (the one above the starter motor) on my
> 2.25 petrol.  It appears to be cast iron.  It's in a right mess and has to
> come out .  Whats the best metod of doing this?
> Thanks,
> Jon

What's left ? Is it flush with the block, sunk below, or left a lump
sticking up ?

Personally, I'd drill it out and retap

Steve
Jon - 16 Jan 2006 19:09 GMT
> What's left ? Is it flush with the block, sunk below, or left a lump
> sticking up ?
>
> Personally, I'd drill it out and retap
>
> Steve
Steve - Thanks for your answer.

About 310 degrees is flush with the block, the rest is original.  One of the
internal lugs has snapped off and taken with it part of the back leaving a
hole about 4mm across.  The lug snapped when I tried to remove it (It was
fine before), the rest fractured off when I attached a self adjusting grip -
the actual plug hasn't shifted one bit and I suspect that it is glued...

As I can't find anything out about this 1" plug, do I use sealent on it when
I finally get to replace it?

Thanks,
Jon
Alex - 16 Jan 2006 23:32 GMT
>> What's left ? Is it flush with the block, sunk below, or left a lump
>> sticking up ?
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>As I can't find anything out about this 1" plug, do I use sealent on it when
>I finally get to replace it?

If it's 1" in diameter, it's not a drain plug, it's a core plug. And
the manual doesn't even mention taking it out, much less how to put it
back. Why did you try to remove it in the first place?

I suspect it is put in with a studlock or a retaining compound, in
which case it could be nearly impossible to remove by normal means.
And having someone drill it and re-tap may be impossible or
cost-prohibitive. (Not many engineering workshops will want to do a
drill and tap on a 1" plug in a engine block)

I'd worry far more about how you're going to get it out than how to
get the new one in.

Alex
Jon - 17 Jan 2006 18:59 GMT
> If it's 1" in diameter, it's not a drain plug, it's a core plug. And
> the manual doesn't even mention taking it out, much less how to put it
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Alex

Well - In my favour I'm more stubborn than it is, and I'm going to remove
it!  (Positive thoughts only!)
I've got some small tools that I can attack it with.  I'll report back....
Thanks,
Jon
Jon - 17 Jan 2006 20:12 GMT
IT'S OUT!

With a little help from Mr. Dremmel and his 3.2mm Carbide cutter....
(Lowest speed setting)

The plug gave no resistance against the cutter - No detectable damage to the
thread and it wasn't held in by any gunk.  Three equally spaced cuts and I
managed to tap out the section with the exposed surface - the other bits
followed.   Took about 45 mins!

Wahoo!
Steve - 17 Jan 2006 22:35 GMT
> IT'S OUT!

Thats the spirit. Well done. Hope you haven't nicked the thread, or you
are going to have some good fun sealing it....

Steve
EMB - 17 Jan 2006 22:39 GMT
>> IT'S OUT!
>
> Thats the spirit. Well done. Hope you haven't nicked the thread, or you
> are going to have some good fun sealing it....

Old fashioned gasket shellac would probably do the job well - it's all i
normally use on core plugs and the like.

Signature

EMB

Jon - 18 Jan 2006 21:00 GMT
>>> IT'S OUT!
>>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Old fashioned gasket shellac would probably do the job well - it's all i
> normally use on core plugs and the like.

It all looks good, but I'll smear a bit of Blue Hylomar around....

Very Chuffed!
 
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