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Car Forum / Lexus Cars / July 2005

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Engine runs rough above 40 mph

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M Long - 03 May 2005 13:40 GMT
I have a 1991 Lexus es250 126000 mile engine that runs rough above 40 mph
for a while, then runs smooth, then runs rough. Mechanics tuned it up and
replaced spark plugs,ignition wires, distributor, rotor, air flow meter,
air filter, alternator belt. None of which solved the problem. Thanks for
any suggestions.
blk knight - 03 May 2005 14:04 GMT
See if there are any codes stored in the computer, could be a sensor.

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Ed Smith"I came into the world with nothing and I still have most of it"

>I have a 1991 Lexus es250 126000 mile engine that runs rough above 40 mph
> for a while, then runs smooth, then runs rough. Mechanics tuned it up and
> replaced spark plugs,ignition wires, distributor, rotor, air flow meter,
> air filter, alternator belt. None of which solved the problem. Thanks for
> any suggestions.
M Long - 04 May 2005 03:51 GMT
There are no codes stored
mrcheerful                                                                          . - 04 May 2005 12:31 GMT
>I have a 1991 Lexus es250 126000 mile engine that runs rough above 40 mph
> for a while, then runs smooth, then runs rough. Mechanics tuned it up and
> replaced spark plugs,ignition wires, distributor, rotor, air flow meter,
> air filter, alternator belt. None of which solved the problem. Thanks for
> any suggestions.

internally broken exhaust, esp. cat converter, may give those symptoms.
have you had the fuel filter changed, again that is a possibility.

mrcheerful
M Long - 04 May 2005 21:56 GMT
Check engine light came on today when I got to 55 mph. It was       codes
25 and 26. According to the manual, codes 25,26 have the following in
common;engine ground bolt loose,open or short in injector circuit, fuel
line pressure,open or short in oxygen sensor circuit,oxygen sensor,water
temp sensor,foreign object caught in valve, and ECU.
What would be the most likely cause?
Ray O - 04 May 2005 22:33 GMT
> Check engine light came on today when I got to 55 mph. It was       codes
> 25 and 26. According to the manual, codes 25,26 have the following in
> common;engine ground bolt loose,open or short in injector circuit, fuel
> line pressure,open or short in oxygen sensor circuit,oxygen sensor,water
> temp sensor,foreign object caught in valve, and ECU.
> What would be the most likely cause?

Most likely causes are oxygen sensor and loose ground bolt/poor connection
to ground.
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Ray O
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M Long - 05 May 2005 01:40 GMT
I ordered an O2 sensor for $67.00. With 126000 miles I guess it needs to be
replaced good or bad. Hopefully this is the problem. Thanks for your
suggestion.
Ray O - 05 May 2005 04:46 GMT
>I ordered an O2 sensor for $67.00. With 126000 miles I guess it needs to be
> replaced good or bad. Hopefully this is the problem. Thanks for your
> suggestion.

To clarify, I doubt if the O2 sensor would cause the engine to run rough but
it cold solve the check engine light.
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Ray O
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HarleyVA@nospam.net - 05 May 2005 02:52 GMT
>> Check engine light came on today when I got to 55 mph. It was       codes
>> 25 and 26. According to the manual, codes 25,26 have the following in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>Most likely causes are oxygen sensor and loose ground bolt/poor connection
>to ground.

also your mass airflow sensor...probably with that mileage, it's
dirty.
Ray O - 05 May 2005 04:45 GMT
>>> Check engine light came on today when I got to 55 mph. It was
>>> codes
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> also your mass airflow sensor...probably with that mileage, it's
> dirty.

Good point!
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Ray O
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M Long - 05 May 2005 13:04 GMT
The air intake sensor was replaced with the air flow meter. Also about 10
months ago the fuel pump,fuel filter and gas tank were replaced.The gas
tank had rusted and clogged the fuel lines. The gas tank was replaced with
a used gas tank.
Ray O - 06 May 2005 06:59 GMT
> The air intake sensor was replaced with the air flow meter. Also about 10
> months ago the fuel pump,fuel filter and gas tank were replaced.The gas
> tank had rusted and clogged the fuel lines. The gas tank was replaced with
> a used gas tank.

I forget what type of vehicle you have, but an air intake sensor serves the
same purpose as an air flow meter.  I doubt if your car has both.

Are the ignition wires and spark plugs OEM parts or aftermarket parts?
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Ray O
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M Long - 06 May 2005 17:30 GMT
A mechanic installed the wires, they have Japanese letters on them.I was
going to replace them myself until I saw I would have to remove the air
intake chamber to get to the 3 in the back. Looking at the manual for my
1991 Lexus ES250 page FI-37, the air flow meter has an air temp sensor
built into it. The O2 sensor should arrive today so I'll see if it fixes
the problem. Also could the PCV valve cause this problem?
Ray O - 06 May 2005 18:05 GMT
>A mechanic installed the wires, they have Japanese letters on them.I was
> going to replace them myself until I saw I would have to remove the air
> intake chamber to get to the 3 in the back. Looking at the manual for my
> 1991 Lexus ES250 page FI-37, the air flow meter has an air temp sensor
> built into it. The O2 sensor should arrive today so I'll see if it fixes
> the problem. Also could the PCV valve cause this problem?

Genuine Toyota/Lexus ignition wires will say Toyota or Lexus or Nippon Denso
or ND.  Come to think of it, I don't think genuine Toyota/Lexus wires have
Japanese writing on them.

I'm not sure why, but Toyota/Lexus seem to run poorly on aftermarket
ignition parts - plugs, wires, rotor, etc.  Many of these kinds of
driveability problems are solved by installing OEM ignition parts.

I suspect that what you think are Japanese letters are actually Chinese.
Many of the 8,000 characters are identical in Japanese and Chinese so
someone who cannot read either language would have a very difficult time
telling the 2 apart.

I thought you had called it an air flow sensor, not an air temperature
sensor.  A bad air temperature sensor is unlikely to cause the drivability
problems you are describing.

I doubt if replacing the O2 sensor or PCV valve will solve the problem.  I'd
start with genuine Toyota or Lexus ignition wires and plugs, cap, and rotor.
Also, make sure that the base ignition timing is correct and that it is
advancing correctly.
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Ray O
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Jyrki Alakuijala - 09 May 2005 15:44 GMT
> I doubt if replacing the O2 sensor or PCV valve will solve the problem.  I'd

My Lexus LS 400 1994 had the same symptoms. I replaced the PCV and
changed the air filter. No improvements. I had two faulty O2 sensors,
ignition wires and plugs replaced by the official Lexus shop using
official parts. The engine seemed to run rougher below 1500 rpm than
before, but had no problems above 75 km/h as it used to. I guess the
O2 sensors were the most important factor in the improvement. However,
gas consumption went up from 13 l / 100 km to around 14.5 l / 100 km
when the "repair" was done.

Now, after about 6 months and 5000 km, the symptoms are back. Car
runs a bit rough above 60-75 km/h.

Next, I am planning to replace the throttle position sensor (or actually
swap the "unused" TPS from the ESP with the normal throttle TPS). Is
this a good idea?

Emissions measurements (3rd party) were fine before and after the
repair.

If someone knows the proper fix for this, I would be very pleased to
hear about it.
Jyrki Alakuijala - 10 May 2005 17:12 GMT
I wrote earlier:

> Next, I am planning to replace the throttle position sensor (or actually
> swap the "unused" TPS from the ESP with the normal throttle TPS). Is
> this a good idea?

The TPS in the normal throttle and the sub-throttle TPS were slightly
different. The resistance over the normal TPS (Part# 89452-33010) is
4.2 kOhm over the resistor, while sub-throttle (Part# 89452-55020) has
a resistance of 5 kOhm. Most likely I could have changed these and
adjust the angular position of the potentiometer to find the right
engine behavior. However, I soaked the two TPS devices in CRC 5-56
(contact aerosol) to reduce the possible noise created by the
potentiometer inside. Once I installed them back, the slight
roughness in engine in speeds of 60-90 km/h or so was gone. The
measurements over the 1-2 and 1-3 pins were according to manufacturer
specifications before and after soaking both the TPS in the contact
spray.

The roughness is easily explained by the bad contact in the
potentiometer. Often, old integrated amplifiers share this behavior:
the potentiometer starts creating noise. In the TPS, the noise is
sensed by the engine computer as the driver (or traction control)
constantly varying the throttle position, and the fuel injection
system tries to compensate by pushing too much or too little fuel
into the engine. This results in less than optimal smoothness.

Both of my TPS dated mid 1993 (my LS is an early 1994).

If you do not have traction control, you have only a single TPS to
worry about.

It is very difficult to diagnose this problem properly, since
replacing the O2 sensors (and parts of the ignition) hide the
symptoms for a while. Also, the guidance in the factory repair
manuals do not give proper instructions on how to find out a
worn TPS. The TPS has to be really seriously broken before the
factory repair manual instructions will detect it as faulty.

Summary:
If your lexus runs slightly rough when driving about 75 km/h, repair
or replace your throttle position sensors first.
M Long - 30 Jul 2005 21:07 GMT
I replaced the throttle position sensor , but the problem still exists. I got
under the car to replace the O2 sensor and noticed that something had leaked
onto the O2 sensor wires. So, I decided to wait on replacing the O2 sensor
until the leak was fixed. I took the car to a mechanic to figure out what was
leaking. He said it was the power steering pump and gave me a price to
replace the pump. I decided to wait a couple of months to save up to pay for
it. I was hoping the leak onto the O2 wire was the problem. The power
steering pump has been replaced( $210 for the pump and $325 for 4 hours labor
which for some reason took 7 hours). I decided to wait to replace the O2
until the weekend. I noticed that the abs light now comes on after driving
the car a few miles. I checked the code(31) and it means either  front right
wheel; 1.speed sensor, 2.Sensor rotor or 3.wire harness. I looked at the
repair manual and it looks like something I can replace or repair myself at
the same time I replace the O2 sensor. The nuts on the O2 sensor are
extremely rusted on. I was wondering if the Speed Sensor could have anything
to do with the rough engine since it might be easier to replace.
 
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