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Car Forum / Lexus Cars / November 2006painting door panels 2005 ES330
Anyone here with auto body experience this post is for you... I have an '05 ES330 Alabaster. I have unfortunately gotten both passenger doors scratched on the lower parts of the doors below the side molding. noticable enough to need repainting, too deep to polish out (not to bare metal tho) Lexus recommends painting practically the whole side of the car to promote proper blending including removal of all the moldings, window trim, door handles etc. Basically $1250 to fix scratched door panels There is no body damage and the rear door may need new bottom door molding. My question here is I am not going thru insurance and prefer not to spend $1250 to repaint especially since it disturbs me to paint perfectly beautiful front fender and rear quarter panel. What are the "correct" recommendations in this case? I want the car essentially perfect as it was pre incident. Am I unreasonable to think it can be done with less painting and thus less $$ but still excellent cosmetic results?? Pro input appreciated. Thanks, Matthew > Anyone here with auto body experience this post is for you... > I have an '05 ES330 Alabaster. I have unfortunately gotten both passenger [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > Thanks, > Matthew When you say "Lexus" I assume you mean a Lexus dealership, but if you want the car to be essentially perfect, then the paint should be blended into adjoining panels, otherwise, over time, the door may appear to be a different color from the adjacent panels.  SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) Surely you most have plenty of 'scratch/chip/dent' specialists on that side of the pond? They are used extensively by dealerships here. > > Anyone here with auto body experience this post is for you... > > I have an '05 ES330 Alabaster. I have unfortunately gotten both passenger [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > adjoining panels, otherwise, over time, the door may appear to be a > different color from the adjacent panels. Fist off, we are talking far too many scratches to be properly "touched up" or polished out. It needs to be painted. In reply to Ray O; my referral to Lexus meant the body shop my dealer uses. One shop who worked on my Honda and did a very nice job, told me they would paint both doors below the side molding for $300, Sounds like a shortcut to me. I'm looking for a compromise between the whole side of the car and the bottom of the doors. I'll do whatever I need to get a "perfect" cosmetic result. > Surely you most have plenty of 'scratch/chip/dent' specialists on that side > of the pond? [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > adjoining panels, otherwise, over time, the door may appear to be a > > different color from the adjacent panels. > Fist off, we are talking far too many scratches to be properly "touched > up" [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > bottom of the doors. I'll do whatever I need to get a "perfect" cosmetic > result. The problem with painting just one panel or a section of the door just below the moulding it that it will probably fade at a different rate from the factory paint over time, so even though the match is perfect right after the repair work is done, it will gradually appear to be a different shade over time, especially if you have an adjacent panel to compare it with. Blending the paint gradually over a larger area makes the difference in paint fade more difficult to detect over time. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) So then it sounds like I would have to paint both doors in their entirety as well as blending in the front fender and rear quarter. My concern with the blend is that since the clear coat of the blend feathers out into a very this layer at its edge isn't it then possible that the blend may actually become visible as a line over time?? > > Fist off, we are talking far too many scratches to be properly "touched > > up" [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Blending the paint gradually over a larger area makes the difference in > paint fade more difficult to detect over time. The body shop I go to (recommended by the Lexus dealer) guarantees their work for as long as I own the car. In fact, on my 1997 ES300, the clear coat started pealing at about 4 years and they fixed it for free. Even paid for the rental car. You might want to ask about that. > So then it sounds like I would have to paint both doors in their entirety as > well as blending in the front fender and rear quarter. [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply) > So then it sounds like I would have to paint both doors in their entirety > as [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > blend > may actually become visible as a line over time?? Generally, the blending or feathering is done around a foot or two past the area of the actual repair, with the color coat getting thinner the farther away from the center of the repair. If there is a seam or a gap nearby, it is usually included in the painted area because the seam or gap would make the difference in color noticeable. The new clear coat is painted and featherd over an even larger area so lines to not appear. Body shops now have scanners to get very good paint matches, and so color differences would not be evident immediately after the job is done. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) > >> > Fist off, we are talking far too many scratches to be properly "touched [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >> Blending the paint gradually over a larger area makes the difference in >> paint fade more difficult to detect over time. Thank you guys for your input. I have decided to go with the Lexus recommende dealer who will do the repair as it SHOULD be done. (pretty much how Ray O.explains). The shop also has a lifetime watrranty on the work. > > So then it sounds like I would have to paint both doors in their entirety > > as [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > >> Blending the paint gradually over a larger area makes the difference in > >> paint fade more difficult to detect over time. |
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