Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement/Repair Advice

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

Pat Dreiding - 16 Oct 2004 20:53 GMT

I've a 99 miata with a leaky slave cylinder.
The problem's not to bad, but I need to keep an eye on the reserve. I plan
on fixing it shortly - with you help.

I have three options:
1. Have a dealer replace it ( $186.40 )
2. Replace the cylinder myself (~ $50 for the cylinder) + a few hours
3. Repair the cylinder ( $10 ) + a few hours

I would love to fix it myself, but I concerned about access to the cylinder and having room to do the job.
I have a garage and standard tools - nothing fancy (no lift).
I did read some posts from Miata.Net (made me feel like I can do this!).

One poster said that the repair can be done without removing the cylinder from the car.
Anyone have experience doing this? Any problems, issues?

Bottom line - What's the best way to fix my slave cylinder at minimum cost?

TIA,
- Pat
Plano, Tx

Reply to this Message

BRUCE HASKIN - 16 Oct 2004 22:23 GMT

Hi Pat,
You can do it yourself ! (Two bolts and a hyd. line)
Jack the front up, use jack stands, remove the right front tire, look in
and you can see the clutch cyl. Remove the hyd. line first, remove the
two bolts and you will have the cyl. off. Wha I hane found is that the
alum. piston may be warn ! If it looks OK, you can just use a kit (NAPA
has a good one). Use alki to clean the parts. When you put the cyl. back
in, be sure to put "good" lub on the rod end. (fill the cyl before you
put it back on the car.) There is NO adjustment needed. just bleed the
system and go have fun. :-)

(Oh, if the piston is warn, get a new one over the miata.net or a
replacement from NAPA.)

Bruce RED '91

Reply to this Message

Don Bruder - 17 Oct 2004 10:06 GMT

> Hi Pat,
> You can do it yourself ! (Two bolts and a hyd. line)
> Jack the front up, use jack stands, remove the right front tire, look in
> and you can see the clutch cyl. Remove the hyd. line first,

Bruce - Some additional advice to go with your already good post:
If it's AT ALL like the clutch slave on the RWD 626s (and your
description is - except for one tiny detail - pretty close to
word-for-word how I'd describe doing the slave on my 626) I'd recommend
one minor tweak to your procedure: BREAK THE HYDRAULIC LINE LOOSE, yes.
But don't even ATTEMPT to REMOVE it - until after you've pulled the two
mount bolts. Then you can unscrew it by turning the whole cylinder,
rather than twisting the bejeebers outta the hose by cranking on it
while the cylinder is still bolted down.

Do exactly the reverse when it's time to re-hang it: Screw the line down
finger-tight by spinning the cylinder onto it, set the mounting bolts,
then once it's bolted back down good and solid, finish tightening the
fitting that last 3/4-turn or so with a wrench. Much healthier for the
line

Otherwise, a very good post on the subject of RWD Mazda clutch slave
service.

> remove the
> two bolts and you will have the cyl. off. Wha I hane found is that the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> put it back on the car.) There is NO adjustment needed. just bleed the
> system and go have fun. :-)

Bleeding can be made quicker and easier (or even eliminated completely
if done right) by first filling the slave, then (with a helper, if
available) making sure the line is full of fluid before threading in the
fitting. Usually, there's very little "bubble" to get rid of if you're
careful, and I've had times where there was none at all - Just finish
hanging it and drive away.

Signature

Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.

Reply to this Message

BRUCE HASKIN - 18 Oct 2004 01:47 GMT

Thanks Don,

The Miata has a "hard line" to the cyl., but it is still a good idea to
do what you have said. :-)

Thanks,

Bruce RED '91

Reply to this Message

Lanny Chambers - 17 Oct 2004 00:11 GMT

> One poster said that the repair can be done without removing the cylinder
> from the car.

You'll need to remove the cylinder to clean it properly before
installing the rebuild kit (such as it is). Otherwise, you'll risk doing
it again before too long.

Make sure you have a real flare nut wrench before you start.

Signature

Lanny Chambers, St. Louis, USA
'94C
the alignment page:
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html

Reply to this Message