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Car Forum / Mazda / Mazda Miata / November 2004

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need info on used miata

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!Allen Lasting - 31 Oct 2004 21:30 GMT
Hi,

I'm gonna buy a used miata, and thought I'd check here to see if anyone can
make a reccomendation on where the best bang for the buck is.

I don't know which model years have what, or which is better, etc.  I'm the
guy who always buys the (fill in the year) and then everybody says, you
shouldn't have got that one you moron, you soulda got the (fill in the year)
instead.

Thanks for any help with this.

Allen
Lanny Chambers - 31 Oct 2004 22:48 GMT
> I'm gonna buy a used miata, and thought I'd check here to see if anyone can
> make a reccomendation on where the best bang for the buck is.

What's your budget?

Signature

Lanny Chambers, St. Louis, USA
'94C
the alignment page:
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html

!Allen Lasting - 02 Nov 2004 17:15 GMT
gjt - 01 Nov 2004 00:32 GMT
Allen:

I have a 1997 that I bought in May of this year.  I am very pleased with
it.  It is red/black.  It has 80K miles.  I paid $7K for it.  I am
considering selling.  I am way overweight and it is tough for me to get
in and out of it.  I have only driven it on Sunday afternoons and have
only put 700 miles on it since purchase.  I am in Alabama should you be
interested.

Thank you.
gjt

> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Allen
Chris D'Agnolo - 01 Nov 2004 01:40 GMT
Allen,

All the info you want to read up on is at miata.net
http://www.miata.net/faq/   this will tell you allot and there is so much
more. Here you'll hear from some people that they like the 1.6 liter cars
(90 to 93) because they tend to rev more quickly and freely, others
(probably more commonly) say that the torque advantage of the 1.8 liter cars
(94 on) more than makes up for it. I recomend driving a few of each. One
very good thing to keep in mind is that tires and inflation rates can make a
huge difference in the percieved handling of a miata. What I did was drove
directly to a gas station and got all 4 tires aired up to, say, 30psi so
that I'd be comparing (as much as is possible anyway) apples to apples. You
wont find that tidbit in the FAQ's!

But, Lanny is right, establish your budget, then unless you have a strong
feeling on the engine choice, buy the newest / best cared for car that you
like and can afford. These cars are bullet proof if properly cared for so
that is a BIG deal also.

Remember, the shopping process can be allot of fun, don't rush in
unprepared.

Chris
92BB&T (135k)

> Allen:
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> >
> > Allen
Chief_Wiggum - 01 Nov 2004 07:59 GMT
I broke the cars down into different groups based on a few things... here
was my thoughts..

I wanted at LEAST a 94 for a couple reasons.  First was the R-134
airconditioning.   I don't want to mess with anything with R-12 anymore, and
didn't want to convert a system over.  Also wanted the 1.8l motor.

96 had some significance to me because it was the 1st year for OBD2
diagnostics....   Not a real big deal, but I've come to rely on being able
to plug my diagnostic computer in when my other cars have problems, CEL on,
etc.  also makes the smog checks faster and easier!

97 was the last year an NA could be purchased, so it's the "newest" 1st gen
car that could be bought.  Of course mileage, condition, etc play a bigger
part than the model year.

99's interested me because I wasn't sure if I liked the pop-up headlamps,
and they came stock with a glass rear window.  I also like the interior a
bit more (mostly the center A/C vents) a bit more, and I kinda like the
*color* of the tan better than the older ones.

After 3-4 months of searching all over, I settled on a pristine 97 "M" model
with 49k miles on it.He was asking 8,500 for it, and I got it for 7k.   I
*really* love the car a lot, and don't regret the purchase for a second

I'm sure somewhere down the road there will be an NB in my future but I
can't say when.   I absoloutely adore the YELLOW that was available in
(what, 03 ?)  I've even considered buying a salvage car, and restoring it
and having it PAINTED yellow.   For now, I'm tickled with my little green
baby !

I only regret not buying one sooner.

good luck with your search!

> Allen,
>
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
> > >
> > > Allen
Chris D'Agnolo - 01 Nov 2004 19:01 GMT
Allen,  here's exactly the kind of process that you need to work through to
get a great car 'for you'!

Chris
92BB&T

> I broke the cars down into different groups based on a few things... here
> was my thoughts..
[quoted text clipped - 90 lines]
> > > >
> > > > Allen
!Allen Lasting - 02 Nov 2004 17:48 GMT
Hi "Chief_Wiggum" >

> 97 was the last year an NA could be purchased, so it's

       what's an NA?

> I'm sure somewhere down the road there will be an NB

       What's an NB?

> good luck with your search!

Thanks, and thanks for all the good advice and information, too.

Allen
Grant Edwards - 02 Nov 2004 17:52 GMT
>> 97 was the last year an NA could be purchased, so it's
>
>         what's an NA?

The body style with the flip-up headlights.

>> I'm sure somewhere down the road there will be an NB
>
>         What's an NB?

I'll give you three guesses....

;)

Signature

Grant Edwards                   grante             Yow!  Did you find a
                                 at               DIGITAL WATCH in YOUR box
                              visi.com            of VELVEETA??

Lanny Chambers - 02 Nov 2004 18:04 GMT
>         what's an NA?

1997 and earlier. Original body style with pop-up headlights.

>         What's an NB?

1999 and later. Newer body style.

Signature

Lanny Chambers, St. Louis, USA
'94C
the alignment page:
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html

!Allen Lasting - 02 Nov 2004 17:18 GMT
Chirs,
thanks for tips.  i woulda never thought of tire pressure.
Allen
Brian Turner - 03 Nov 2004 12:59 GMT
I would suggest making sure the tire pressure is no more than 26-28
PSI.  Any more than that and you wil get a harsh ride.  When I test
drove my '99 Miata I thought the shocks were bad and negotiated a
better deal based on the thought that it needed new shocks.  When I
got it home I checked the tire pressure and all the tires were pumped
up close to 40 PSI.  When I adjusted the tires to 26 PSI the ride
improved dramatically and ruled out the need for new shocks.

> Allen,
>
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
> > >
> > > Allen
josh - 03 Nov 2004 15:58 GMT
> I would suggest making sure the tire pressure is no more than 26-28
> PSI.  Any more than that and you wil get a harsh ride.

Well the flipside to that, depending on exactly what tires are on the car,
is that lower pressure = poor cornering/handling.

I run 34 rear, 35 front in my M2, minimum pressure that the car handles
close to right with the awful Falken Ziex ZE-512 tires...  last set were
Pirelli P7000's at 36 rear, 37 front, they were killer.  Original Yoko's
took 33 front and 32 rear to handle right.  26-28psi has been awful with any
of the three sets of 185/60-14 tires I've had on my M2.
Chris D'Agnolo - 03 Nov 2004 19:09 GMT
That's the whole reason I suggested 30 psi, it may not be perfect but it
ain't gunna cause terrible handling or super harsh ride, no matter what
tires are on the car.

Once you own a car you can fine tune the best pressures.

Chris

> > I would suggest making sure the tire pressure is no more than 26-28
> > PSI.  Any more than that and you wil get a harsh ride.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> took 33 front and 32 rear to handle right.  26-28psi has been awful with any
> of the three sets of 185/60-14 tires I've had on my M2.
Brian Turner - 04 Nov 2004 14:10 GMT
That would be the right approach for a test drive.  The correct air
pressure would depend on the size of the tire.  In my case, I have
195/50-15 and they require less pressure.  A 14" tire may require more
pressure.

> That's the whole reason I suggested 30 psi, it may not be perfect but it
> ain't gunna cause terrible handling or super harsh ride, no matter what
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>  any
> > of the three sets of 185/60-14 tires I've had on my M2.
 
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