Car Forum / Mazda / Mazda Miata / November 2005
Alternator
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Frank Berger - 29 Nov 2005 04:16 GMT Looking for some advice - should I replace my alternator with one that is
a) rebuilt b) used c) new one from a dealer (is this really new or rebuilt?)
?
Thanks.
XS11E - 29 Nov 2005 05:10 GMT > Looking for some advice - should I replace my alternator with one > that is > > a) rebuilt > b) used > c) new one from a dealer (is this really new or rebuilt?) There's little difference between rebuilt and new. There aren't a lot of parts to wear in an alternator, rebuilders replace bearings and brushes along with any other parts that need replacing, I've had rebuilts last as long or longer than new ones.
miatapaul - 29 Nov 2005 05:33 GMT There is on the other hand a big difference on the quality of rebuilds. I would find a good local rebuilder that has a good reputation. Then if you have any problems you can go back to them. I have had good luck with a local rebuilder that does excelent work.
XS11E - 29 Nov 2005 16:36 GMT > There is on the other hand a big difference on the quality of > rebuilds. I would find a good local rebuilder that has a good > reputation. Then if you have any problems you can go back to them. > I have had good luck with a local rebuilder that does excelent > work. While I agree with you, even the best rebuilders make mistakes and I've learned to rely heavily on the return policy of the seller and, believe it or not, in the past I've found Pep Boys to be the absolute best of all on returns.
Zog The Undeniable - 29 Nov 2005 18:42 GMT > There's little difference between rebuilt and new. There aren't a lot > of parts to wear in an alternator, rebuilders replace bearings and > brushes along with any other parts that need replacing, I've had > rebuilts last as long or longer than new ones. Just watch out for the ones that have simply had new brushes and a coat of silver paint.
XS11E - 29 Nov 2005 20:08 GMT >> There's little difference between rebuilt and new. There aren't >> a lot of parts to wear in an alternator, rebuilders replace [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Just watch out for the ones that have simply had new brushes and a > coat of silver paint. If that's all that was needed, why would you need to watch out for them?
Zog The Undeniable - 29 Nov 2005 20:31 GMT > If that's all that was needed, why would you need to watch out for > them? When they're sold for the same price as the ones with new bearings and rewound coils.
XS11E - 29 Nov 2005 22:05 GMT >> If that's all that was needed, why would you need to watch out >> for them? >> > When they're sold for the same price as the ones with new bearings > and rewound coils. I'd much prefer the old bearings if they're good, the most catastrophic bearing failures I've had, the kind that explode the outer race and case, are from new bearings.
As for the rewound coils, I'd rather not if the old coils are good, rewound coils are difficult to do correctly and the chance of failure is high.
Leon van Dommelen - 30 Nov 2005 00:56 GMT >>> If that's all that was needed, why would you need to watch out >>> for them? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >rewound coils are difficult to do correctly and the chance of failure >is high. You sure make a good case for just getting a new alternator.
Leon
 Signature Leon van Dommelen :) Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .) rammm@dommelen.net http://www.dommelen.net/miata EXIT THE INTERSTATES (Jamie Jensen)
XS11E - 30 Nov 2005 02:30 GMT >>>> If that's all that was needed, why would you need to watch out >>>> for them? [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > You sure make a good case for just getting a new alternator. Nah, I'll stick with rebuilt. I've never had any problems with them.
Chas Hurst - 30 Nov 2005 03:23 GMT > >>>> If that's all that was needed, why would you need to watch out > >>>> for them? [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Nah, I'll stick with rebuilt. I've never had any problems with them. Success depends on the rebuilder. Over the counter rebuilds, in my opinion, are worthless. Take your alternator to a local rebuilding shop and get it done right.
XS11E - 30 Nov 2005 03:35 GMT
> Success depends on the rebuilder. Over the counter rebuilds, in my > opinion, are worthless. I've got 50 years working on cars, professionally and as a hobby. I've replaced dozens and dozens of alternators, almost every one a rebuild. I've never had a comeback.
Chas Hurst - 30 Nov 2005 04:28 GMT > > Success depends on the rebuilder. Over the counter rebuilds, in my > > opinion, are worthless. > > I've got 50 years working on cars, professionally and as a hobby. I've > replaced dozens and dozens of alternators, almost every one a rebuild. > I've never had a comeback. The posts on other auto oriented forums do support your experience. Nor does my 30 years in the business. I quit using over the counter stuff early on and went to the local rebuilding shop that had a reputation and perhaps more importantly, a face and a name. You have been lucky, play the lottery.
Don Bruder - 30 Nov 2005 07:14 GMT > The posts on other auto oriented forums do support your experience. Erm... Chuck? Just double-checking here, but are you missing a rather important, meaning-changing three-letter word between the words "do" and "support" in that line? Context seems to indicate you probably wanted a "not" in there, but with as much debate as this seemingly simple thread has generated, I figure it's safer to ask than guess!
To weigh in on the controversy, I have yet to have a reman/rebuilt alternator either be or go bad without some external factor being involved - Ferinstance, something a dud distributor shaft O-ring puking oil directly into the guts of an alternator seems to drastically shorten its lifespan, regardless of whether it's brand new, rebuilt, reman, or just snatched off the handiest junkyard donor and bolted on "dirt and all".
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
Frank Berger - 30 Nov 2005 17:14 GMT >> The posts on other auto oriented forums do support your experience. > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > just snatched off the handiest junkyard donor and bolted on "dirt and > all". After posting the symptoms I am having, I did something I should have done the second I heard the PS moan, which is to check the PS fluid. Dipstick came up dry. I added fluid this morning and the moan is gone. So how about a new scenario? Low PS fluid (maybe a leak, though no obvious sign of one) leads to resistance at the PS pulley which causes the belt to squeal until it gets up to speed. Therefore no reason to suspect the alternator at all. Of course, if the PS pump is leaking, my original question still applies, but to a different piece of equipment. At the store I saw some stuff that claims to stop PS pump leaks by swelling the seals. Any opinions on that?
Thanks.
> ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more > info XS11E - 30 Nov 2005 20:36 GMT > Of course, if the PS pump is leaking, my original question still > applies, but to a different piece of equipment. At the store I > saw some stuff that claims to stop PS pump leaks by swelling the > seals. Any opinions on that? Yeah, do nothing except add fluid until you find the leak! One of the more likely suspects will be seals on the steering rack or hose connections, etc. Almost anything you replace (rebuilt or new) will be costly so make SURE you know exactly where the fluid went before making a guess!
The stuff that claims to swell the seals may or may not work, again depending on the location of the leak, but it will be a temporary fix if it does work.
Frank Berger - 30 Nov 2005 03:42 GMT >> >>>> If that's all that was needed, why would you need to watch out >> >>>> for them? [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > are worthless. Take your alternator to a local rebuilding shop and get it > done right. This is what I'm thinking. I've got 90K on my '96 Miata. I think, but am not sure, that the bearings are going in the alternator. Symptoms: squeal on cold start (no grease on belts or pulleys), slight rattling sound. The squeal on startup started before my 60k service at which I had the timing belt and other belts replaced (but not the water pump). I forgot to mention the squeal to them and all that work didn't make it go away. So I'm thinking bad bearings create resistance that makes the belt slip. Just this week a new new noise started. When I turn the steering wheel in either direction there is a power steering moan. Yes, my car is squealing and moaning. I other circumstances this could be a good thing. But I digress.
The question is, is all this consistent with my idea that the alternator bearings are shot? Or is more likely to be, say, the power steering pump?
So why not get an alternator with 30-60k on it from an internet seller? Much cheaper that a rebuild, let alone a new one.
Advice welcomed.
Mal Osborne - 29 Nov 2005 11:43 GMT Unless there is an insignificant price diff, I would go for a)
Mal 2003 V6 Pontiac GTO Station Wagon
> Looking for some advice - should I replace my alternator with one that is > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Thanks.
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