Not trying to sound insulting, but you mentioned that the car is new to
you. Is this a manual shift car, and if so, are you experienced at
driving stick shifts?

The reason that I am asking is that the only way the car should be
lurching forward under braking is if it is also receiving power at the
same time.

This is typically done on stick shifts by not releasing the clutch, or
releasing it late; and on automatics by hitting both pedals at once.

I apologize if I have pointed out the obvious.

If it is not related to driving behavior, I would get the car brakes
looked at immediately.

Pat

In article
<10a8f68c342d4cf00acf1c3a70f6d3e1@localhost.talkaboutautos.com>,

Is this in the snow?

I'm not an auto mechanic and I do not play one on the Internet. So what
I am about to say is worth what you paid for it. But it is based on
exactly the same sort of symptoms we had with our 97 Nissan Quest. When
the engine was cold and you would press the brakes to stop, it would
lunge forward. In our case there were two problems: when the engine was
cold, even if it had been running and driven for several minutes, the
idling mechanism was sticking in an open position. So the engine was
running faster and torquing higher than it should have, engaging the
clutch on the automatic transmission. Second, the brakes needed
adjustment. So when we would stop after starting the car and driving it
for less than 10-25 minutes, then coming to a stop, the engine would
still be revving at a higher speed than it should have, the automatic
transmission would not disengage and the car would lurch forward.

I'm guessing the idling mechanism is your primary problem. No matter
how good the brakes, if a cold engine is still revving too fast it will
be hard to keep the car stopped. A good mechanic should be able to
remedy for not much money. While you're there, get the brakes checked.

Al Henkerman