Car Forum / Mazda / Mazda Miata / April 2008
Weird Question...
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XS11E - 14 Feb 2008 00:05 GMT When my Miata was vandalized and a few items stolen the @#&(*&^%s tried to pull off the tonneau cover by brute force cracking the dash on the passenger's side where the studs for the tonneau screw in and now they've become very loose so....
If I pull the glove box or center console/radio or ??? can I reach up in there to put some kind of backing in place that the studs can screw into? Anyone know?
I'm pretty sure my hands won't work well enough anymore to R & R the dash <sigh>, even if I could find a good used one and I think it's one heck of a lot of labor if someone else does it so some kind of repair is the best answer. A repair won't show as I had to get a dash mat to hide the cracks the @$$%^&%^$#s caused.
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Chuck - 14 Feb 2008 00:18 GMT I really don't know what the tonneau screws screw into. Is this a hard or soft cover? It may be possible to remove the glove compartment bib and see if there is anything that you might add to help with the situation. It may be that epoxy will be your best bet.
> When my Miata was vandalized and a few items stolen the @#&(*&^%s tried > to pull off the tonneau cover by brute force cracking the dash on the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > is the best answer. A repair won't show as I had to get a dash mat to > hide the cracks the @$$%^&%^$#s caused. XS11E - 14 Feb 2008 01:11 GMT > I really don't know what the tonneau screws screw into. It screws into holes already provided in the dashboard. You lift out the factory installed plastic pins that hide the holes when you install the screws for the tonneau.
> Is this a hard or soft cover? Soft. http://www.gomiata.com/robheadpocto.html
> It may be possible to remove the glove compartment bib and see if > there is anything that you might add to help with the situation. My question is can I reach my hand in there with the glove box removed? If someone has already done this it could save me time.
> It may be that epoxy will be your best bet. HERESY! Cars are fixed with either duct tape or baling wire, a true purist won't use any thing else! Except JB Weld, of course.....
*IF* I can reach the end of the stud from underneath, I can add a reinforcement somehow, if not, I'll use JB Weld to "glue" the stud in place but I don't have a lot of hope for that being a permanent fix, the area of the dash is pretty well damaged when the vandals ripped off the tonneau w/o unsnapping it.
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Chuck - 14 Feb 2008 11:20 GMT "JB Weld" is an Epoxy! I don't usually recommend brand names. Automotive "Goop" should also work well once it sets up. (not an epoxy, sort of like RTV that eventually gets hard) And, I usualy tend to use a mil spec Scotch industrial epoxy that is similar to "Liquid Steel" (sometimes free when it goes out of date for mil spec use.)
I always thought bailing wire was used for farm equipment, car mufflers, and military shipboard radar. (when Duct Tape won't get it)
> > I really don't know what the tonneau screws screw into. > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > the area of the dash is pretty well damaged when the vandals ripped off > the tonneau w/o unsnapping it. pws - 14 Feb 2008 01:46 GMT > When my Miata was vandalized and a few items stolen the @#&(*&^%s tried > to pull off the tonneau cover by brute force cracking the dash on the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > is the best answer. A repair won't show as I had to get a dash mat to > hide the cracks the @$$%^&%^$#s caused. I have taken two dashes off and apart, and I don't think that you are going to be able to reach up there without removing more than the glove box. There is solid metal tubing, plastic vent tubes, wiring, lots to get in the way in a small space. It may be possible, but it won't be easy.
How about a top side repair, maybe filling in the holes with quick-set epoxy so that the screws will have something to bite into again? With the dash mat the repair doesn't have to be pretty, just secure and not raised very much.
Pat
XS11E - 14 Feb 2008 05:58 GMT > I have taken two dashes off and apart, and I don't think that you > are going to be able to reach up there without removing more than > the glove box. I was pretty sure of that, thanks.
> How about a top side repair, maybe filling in the holes with > quick-set epoxy so that the screws will have something to bite > into again? With the dash mat the repair doesn't have to be > pretty, just secure and not raised very much. That's my current plan. I'll pull the glove box first but I won't spent too much time or blood trying to get a hand up there....
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Chuck - 14 Feb 2008 11:27 GMT I don't blame you! There are a lot of sharp edges on brackets and other things just waiting to stab and gouge the unwary. The heater may block underneath access anyway. Taking the dash out is a really major production, and on older models, an invitation for such things as breaking brittle plastic parts. To just get under the dash, I usually end up pulling the seats.
"I'll pull the glove box first but I won't spent too much time or blood trying to get a hand up there...."
> > I have taken two dashes off and apart, and I don't think that you > > are going to be able to reach up there without removing more than [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > That's my current plan. I'll pull the glove box first but I won't > spent too much time or blood trying to get a hand up there.... pws - 14 Feb 2008 14:47 GMT > I don't blame you! There are a lot of sharp edges on brackets and other > things just waiting to stab and gouge the unwary. I still think that they hone the edges razor sharp at the factory. One piece that I encountered during a shock replacement left a near-surgical cut on my hand.
> The heater may block underneath access anyway. Taking the dash out is a > really major production, and on older models, an invitation for such things > as breaking brittle plastic parts. Yes, I have a dash that will fit his car. Cost for the dash, maybe $5.00. My cost to install it, about $5,000 or so with no guarantees that the replacement won't snap plastic pieces off or rattle once in place.
I wonder what a shop charges. A dash replacement is probably the single last car repair that I would want to do on the Miata, especially on a 1992 model. A brand-new dash would have a good chance for a clean installation, but it hurts to even think of what Mazda would charge for one, and there is still a lot of labor involved.
> To just get under the dash, I usually end up pulling the seats. That helps a lot, but I still usually do the contortionist act. Being thin helps, but it gets harder to do each year.....
Pat
Jazz_Azz - 14 Feb 2008 16:41 GMT > > I don't blame you! There are a lot of sharp edges on brackets and other > > things just waiting to stab and gouge the unwary. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Pat My backs begins to hurts just picturing all this>LOL.
Not being too much of a mechanic myself, I would concentrate on finding a good NON dealer shop around my area. Check out cartalk.com (Click & clack). They have an area on their site, where you can put in your zip code and find some honest/trustworthy shops.
XS11E - 14 Feb 2008 22:50 GMT > Not being too much of a mechanic myself, I would concentrate on > finding a good NON dealer shop around my area. I have a very good shop here:
http://www.mikes-place.biz/
but replacing the dash is a last resort because of the cost. I could do a bunch of the easy stuff I guess? I could remove the center console, radio, glove box, passenger seat and then drive it down there, that might save $50 or so but it's still an awful lot of money....
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XS11E - 14 Feb 2008 20:34 GMT OK so far. I'm VERY lucky in that it's a fairly warm, sunny day although the forecast was for possible rain.
I removed the glove box and found, as everyone said, that reaching up to the area where the tonneau studs screw in isn't possible. I was able to determine this with minimal blood loss. ;-)
So, I mixed up a batch of JB Weld and, using a plasic knife, started putting the JB Weld into the holes where the studs screw in and also covering the surrounding area. I coated the threaded part of the studs and screwed them in finger tight into the now gooey holes and we'll see tomorrow if the repair will hold.
If not, you'll all be happy to know the local dealer has a fix that *will* hold, he suggests I remove the studs and tonneau cover and put them into a 2008 MX5.
I suspect this may cost more than the JB Weld? ;-)
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Jazz_Azz - 14 Feb 2008 22:43 GMT > OK so far. I'm VERY lucky in that it's a fairly warm, sunny day > although the forecast was for possible rain. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups > The Usenet Improvement Project:http://improve-usenet.org I never even realized that you could use a tonneau cover with the Miata, mine being a 2000. I either always have my Convertible top up or down. Why would the idiot have had to do such damage?? Could he have just as easily unsnapped the cover, looking for whatever. Even a convertible top isn't much security, if something was stupidly left within pure view, like a laptop, whatever. I'd imagine some scum sucker could just slice right through that. I am glad that mine is garaged nearly all the time, while at home.
XS11E - 14 Feb 2008 22:53 GMT > Why would the idiot have had to do such damage?? Could he have > just as easily unsnapped the cover, looking for whatever. Of course he/she/it could have but that would require more intellect than he/she/it apparently had.
I think it's a matter of time, it's quicker to just grab and rip than to look and see what's holding it on.
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pws - 15 Feb 2008 03:31 GMT > I never even realized that you could use a tonneau cover with the > Miata, mine being a 2000. I either always have my Convertible top up [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > sucker could just slice right through that. I am glad that mine is > garaged nearly all the time, while at home. There was a person on here a long time ago that always left their Miata unlocked so that the top would not have to be cut. Many people on here follow the same practice.
The logic has always been that replacing a top would be more trouble and expense than replacing whatever is in the car.
No such luck, this one cut the top to gain access to an unlocked car. I am guessing that these are not the brightest bulbs in the chandelier.
Pat
XS11E - 15 Feb 2008 05:17 GMT > There was a person on here a long time ago that always left their > Miata unlocked so that the top would not have to be cut. Many > people on here follow the same practice. > > The logic has always been that replacing a top would be more > trouble and expense than replacing whatever is in the car. Baaaaaaaad logic, if the car is unlocked your insurance probably won't cover a loss, they will replace your top and whatever is stolen IF your car is locked.
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Jazz_Azz - 15 Feb 2008 05:44 GMT > > There was a person on here a long time ago that always left their > > Miata unlocked so that the top would not have to be cut. Many [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups > The Usenet Improvement Project:http://improve-usenet.org So who has to admit that the car was unlocked?? Gee, I'm pretty sure that I had it locked>>LOL LOL :-).
pws - 15 Feb 2008 17:42 GMT > So who has to admit that the car was unlocked?? Gee, I'm pretty sure > that I had it locked>>LOL LOL :-). Is that like when the company asks if it has an alarm? Of course it does. ;-)
Really, you can break into my car by zipping the back window down from the outside. It is so lacking in security that the thought of locking it up just makes me laugh. At least the trunk is fairly secure.
Pat
XS11E - 15 Feb 2008 19:41 GMT >> > There was a person on here a long time ago that always left >> > their Miata unlocked so that the top would not have to be cut. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >> won't cover a loss, they will replace your top and whatever is >> stolen IF your car is locked.
> So who has to admit that the car was unlocked?? Gee, I'm pretty > sure that I had it locked>>LOL LOL :-). You don't but if you do leave it unlocked and something's stolen you better smash a window or something because the insurance company can and probably will refuse to pay if there's no sign of forced entry.
One guy I worked with had his car opened somehow (He swears it was locked but who knows?) and over a thousand dollars of company property was stolen. His insurance company denied the claim because of "no sign of forcible entry" as per the police report.
He learned, next time (if there is one) he'll break a windows before calling the police....
Having the top slashed is enough evidence for any insurance company.
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Bill Gunshannon - 15 Feb 2008 19:47 GMT >>> > There was a person on here a long time ago that always left >>> > their Miata unlocked so that the top would not have to be cut. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > better smash a window or something because the insurance company can > and probably will refuse to pay if there's no sign of forced entry. Huh? Haven't ever seen how they open the door when you lock your keys in it? Takes 2 seconds and doesn't leave a mark on the car. Only the amateurs break windows. I had a Volvo broken into and a ham radio taken out of it in Anapollis, MD over 20 years ago. The police would not even come out to look at it as the same thieves had done the same to over 100 cars in lighted hotel parking lots overnight. Not a mark on any of them.
> One guy I worked with had his car opened somehow (He swears it was > locked but who knows?) and over a thousand dollars of company property [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Having the top slashed is enough evidence for any insurance company. Sounds like time to get a lawyer. See above. And the pros are even better today. On another note, I wonder how long before they figure out how to use bluetooth to get the car computer to open the doors for them?
bill
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XS11E - 15 Feb 2008 23:34 GMT > Huh? Haven't ever seen how they open the door when you lock your > keys in it? Takes 2 seconds and doesn't leave a mark on the car. > Only the amateurs break windows. Not that easy now. Breaking windows is still very popular, it's the fastest way to get in.
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pws - 15 Feb 2008 17:37 GMT > Baaaaaaaad logic, if the car is unlocked your insurance probably won't > cover a loss, they will replace your top and whatever is stolen IF your > car is locked. Well, you didn't lock your Miata when they ripped your tonneau cover off, so you can't be too adamant about locking it.
I have left my 2 Miatas unlocked for over 8 years, never had anything taken that I noticed and have never had the top slashed. The logic has worked well for me so far.
My deductible is much higher than the value of anything that I ever leave in the car when it is unattended.
Pat
XS11E - 15 Feb 2008 19:36 GMT >> Baaaaaaaad logic, if the car is unlocked your insurance probably >> won't cover a loss, they will replace your top and whatever is >> stolen IF your car is locked. > > Well, you didn't lock your Miata when they ripped your tonneau > cover off, so you can't be too adamant about locking it. Of course it was locked.
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Chas Hurst - 15 Feb 2008 23:35 GMT >>> Baaaaaaaad logic, if the car is unlocked your insurance probably >>> won't cover a loss, they will replace your top and whatever is [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Of course it was locked. Who has had a theft claim denied because the car wasn't locked?
XS11E - 11 Apr 2008 05:55 GMT > When my Miata was vandalized and a few items stolen the @#&(*&^%s > tried to pull off the tonneau cover by brute force cracking the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > kind of repair is the best answer. A repair won't show as I had > to get a dash mat to hide the cracks the @$$%^&%^$#s caused. It's been since the middle of February since I posted the above and we've been blessed with wonderful warm weather for some weeks now and the top has been down, the tonneau cover has been on and off many times and it looks like it's FIXED!
To review, posted February 14th: "I mixed up a batch of JB Weld and, using a plasic knife, started putting the JB Weld into the holes where the studs screw in and also covering the surrounding area. I coated the threaded part of the studs and screwed them in finger tight into the now gooey holes and we'll see tomorrow if the repair will hold."
The studs are solid as can be now. I believe a big part of the success is that the weather wasn't warm enough for a couple of weeks to use the tonneau cover, I put the top down a few times but always has to put it back up in the evening so the JB Weld was left alone to harden for many days.
Years back I added JB Weld to duct tape, WD-40 and bailing wire in my "repair anything" kit, I recommend it highly!
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pws - 11 Apr 2008 21:39 GMT >>When my Miata was vandalized and a few items stolen the @#&(*&^%s >>tried to pull off the tonneau cover by brute force cracking the [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > Years back I added JB Weld to duct tape, WD-40 and bailing wire in my > "repair anything" kit, I recommend it highly! Congrats! Yes, JB weld was added to my tool kit many years ago, I have used it on many things besides cars. As long as it can sit without dripping off, and as you mentioned, dry for long enough, it is amazing stuff.
Those tonneau studs are probably many times harder to pull out than they were before the repair.
You did not mention the BFH in your tool list. That is another one that is good to have, both for repairs and for demolishing the damn thing if it can't be repaired. Maybe not good for a dash, though. :-)
Pat
XS11E - 11 Apr 2008 23:08 GMT > Those tonneau studs are probably many times harder to pull out > than they were before the repair. Correct.
> You did not mention the BFH in your tool list. That's in my watchmaker's tool kit.
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