> As ski season winds down and autocross season starts up, I've been
> thinking about learning how to rotate (swap) tires myself. Since
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> sweet, but someone said this one works well enough so I figure I'll
> buy in for $30 and see how I like working on the wheels.
I have used a similar one. Lots of pumping the handle for the height
that it is being raised, and much more effort than a larger model, but
they do work.
I think that the professional model takes 3 pumps, maybe two, to get the
Miata raised. That is on my want/must-have list.
> Central Machinery 3 ton jack stands with rubber pads
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38846
> These seem good because they have a groove that might fit well over
> the lip on the underside of the car, which I understand is a good
> place to prop it up?
When I jack the car up for wheel swaps, I put a piece of wood underneath
at the mirror point to distribute the load, then raise the whole side of
the car up.
I stick one jack stand underneath the piece of wood to save the car in
case the jack fails, then just swap them out.
I lower the car onto stands anytime I am underneath it, but this works
fine since I am never in danger of it falling on me during tire swap.
Since the tires I have are always directional, I can only go front to
rear and vice-versa anyway.
> Will I need more than just one pair? I'm thinking two stands is
> enough to prop up the left side, swap front & rear, then repeat with
> the right side.
I have four stands, but have never used more than two on a Miata unless
I was parting it out.
> Craftsman Torque Wrench, 1/2 in. drive, 69.99
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944595000P?keyword=torque+wrench
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> reviews, but it's $140. Sorta hoping this one would be good enough
> for tightening lug nuts.
That will work, the 1/2 inch will go over the 80 foot pounds that you need.
As far as quality, I have had a Craftsman torque wrench fall apart, but
that was after many years of use and it remained accurate every time I
tested it against a friend's wrench. Or at least, they were equally
inaccurate. ;-)
I have heard that you should only use a torque wrench to tighten, not to
loosen. Not sure how true this is but I have always followed it since
torque wrenches are kind of pricey and I have the tools I need to remove
the lugs.
> Lug nut socket? Where should I get one, is it just a generic socket?
> I have the OEM 16" wheels on a 2003 Shinsen edition.
There can be different sized lugs depending on the wheels that were
used, but it should be a common size and any 1/2" socket that fits and
is deep enough should work.
I would mention to be sure to get a quality socket, but you are already
looking at Craftsman products.
> I'm thinking I might also want a helper wrench or two, curious as to
> what people like.
>
> Gracias & ZZ
> Eric
You won't need a helper wrench to torque them, plenty of leverage to hit
80 foot pounds from the long handle on the torque wrench.
A long-handled 1/2" socket driver is a wonderful thing when removing
stubborn bolts, but your's are probably not too bad at 5 years old
unless a gorilla mechanic has over-torqued them somewhere. :-)
Pat
In article
<32b1adf1-f179-4cb3-93b0-1b4f5b8640f4@u10g2000prn.googlegroups.com>,
> Lug nut socket? Where should I get one, is it just a generic socket?
Yes, one of the standard sizes (which one depends on your lugs). Get a
large X wrench instead of a socket.
Instead of jackstands, some folks rip a slot in a 2x4 so it fits over
the rocker panel seam, and use it to jack one side directly below the
outside mirror. Make sure to set the handbrake firmly.

Signature
Lanny Chambers
St. Louis, MO
'94C